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Oil analysis

udidwht
Explorer
Explorer
For those who are interested.....(don't bother posting regarding the contact info) I'm the least bit worried. None of us are that special.

As you can see oil will easily live beyond 1 year. Easily.

Oil analyzed: Valvoline VR1 20W-50 conventional
Filter: Mobil 1 Extended Performance filter

https://www.dropbox.com/s/qpzub1q70cn3c77/RV%207.4L%20oil%20report.pdf?dl=0
1994 Fleetwood Southwind Storm
P-30 chassis 7.4L 454 TBI 58,301 miles and counting....(as of 06/08/19)
VIN# 1GBJP37N4R3314754
Flight System Generator man 360 (PM me)
31 REPLIES 31

BobGed
Explorer
Explorer
udidwht wrote:
Fram equals ****.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iTNJLEV8CG8&index=102&list=WL

CLICKY
2017 Tiffin Phaeton 40QBH
2014 Jeep Cherokee Limited

rhagfo
Explorer
Explorer
Well I spent the money on TBN reports for the first two or three oil changes on our 2001 Ram Cummins bought with 234,000 miles. We established a safe change interval of 10,000 miles, about a years mileage. I could have pushed further, but once a year was good for me.
When I sell new owner will get all the reports.
I also sent a sample from my new to us 2016 Ram CTD Aisin trams fluid change, came back ver good.
Russ & Paula the Beagle Belle.
2016 Ram Laramie 3500 Aisin DRW 4X4 Long bed.
2005 Copper Canyon 293 FWSLS, 32' GVWR 12,360#

"Visit and Enjoy Oregon State Parks"

udidwht
Explorer
Explorer
Fram equals ****.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iTNJLEV8CG8&index=102&list=WL
1994 Fleetwood Southwind Storm
P-30 chassis 7.4L 454 TBI 58,301 miles and counting....(as of 06/08/19)
VIN# 1GBJP37N4R3314754
Flight System Generator man 360 (PM me)

udidwht
Explorer
Explorer
185EZ wrote:
The fram filters I use are the top o the line if you look closely.
They wouldn't be in business if they were so bad.
You're waiting for your filters to fill up the pores so they filter better, lmao.
Kind of like saying 20w50 is good for your motor, lol.
Did you even read the manual? Or is that not good enough for you either? Smarter than the engineers I see.
You're just into the old wive's tales of 50 years ago.
20w50 is obviously the wrong viscosity but you're too stubborn to accept your mistake.
And sorry you wasted your money on an analysis. You didn't even do it correctly to obtain good results.
Read this,
https://parts.olathetoyota.com/blog/4680/is-oil-testing-worth-doing/


Frams history of less than stellar quality speaks for itself. Been building big blocks longer than I can remember as well as air-cooled Type-4 engines they don't have issues with 20W-50. Ever stick an oil pressure gauge on and look? I have.

Oil filter efficiency does increase with use. Fact

One doesn't waste time when doing an analysis. You waste time by guessing. Old wives tale? If that were the case I'd be changing it too early like you and (for no reason). Newer oil will NOT preform better than a current oil that has a high TBN. Saying otherwise is a wives tale.

And by the way....these aren't Toyota engines. LOL!
1994 Fleetwood Southwind Storm
P-30 chassis 7.4L 454 TBI 58,301 miles and counting....(as of 06/08/19)
VIN# 1GBJP37N4R3314754
Flight System Generator man 360 (PM me)

185EZ
Explorer
Explorer
The fram filters I use are the top o the line if you look closely.
They wouldn't be in business if they were so bad.
I bet you say armor all is bad too?
You're waiting for your filters to fill up the pores so they filter better, lmao.
Kind of like saying 20w50 is good for your motor, lol.
Did you even read the manual? Or is that not good enough for you either? Smarter than the engineers I see.
You're just into the old wive's tales of 50 years ago.
20w50 is obviously the wrong viscosity but you're too stubborn to accept your mistake.
And sorry you wasted your money on an analysis. You didn't even do it correctly to obtain good results.
Read this,
https://parts.olathetoyota.com/blog/4680/is-oil-testing-worth-doing/

udidwht
Explorer
Explorer
185EZ wrote:
I know you said your local FLAPS didn't have the proper viscosity but 20w50 isn't even close to being listed.
Not having problems with it is just your guess.
20w50 is used for high temp air cooled Harleys and my mercury racing motor recommends it especially since most of our boating is done in 85*+ temps.
That stuff must flow like molasses in january so the oil analysis would be beneficial for you.

This is your chart,

Screenshot_1 by 185 EZ, on Flickr


Flow like molasses...no

You do realize it's a MULTI viscosity oil eh. It doesn't say 50w-20.
1994 Fleetwood Southwind Storm
P-30 chassis 7.4L 454 TBI 58,301 miles and counting....(as of 06/08/19)
VIN# 1GBJP37N4R3314754
Flight System Generator man 360 (PM me)

udidwht
Explorer
Explorer
185EZ wrote:
Clearly we will butt heads all day long on this.
I have other vices that I can throw $3X.XX away in a heartbeat,
But if all you're trying to save is $3X.XX dollars a year on something critical then someone once told me,

"My thought is if one gripes over the cost of even (1) then RV's aren't for you"


A year?

Not even.

"I've got too much at stake to wait till the last mile"

Must explain the Fram filters you use. They don't even get to share the same room space with any of my vehicles.

Fram = Cra_

Mobil 1 Extended Performance, WIX or NAPA Gold filters or nothing.
1994 Fleetwood Southwind Storm
P-30 chassis 7.4L 454 TBI 58,301 miles and counting....(as of 06/08/19)
VIN# 1GBJP37N4R3314754
Flight System Generator man 360 (PM me)

185EZ
Explorer
Explorer
No gripes here about spending money on preventative maintenance
I've got too much at stake to wait till the last mile,
Better than spending $38+ on an analysis.
I didn't realize it costs an extra $10 for the TBN.
You'd be miles ahead by just changing your oil
Just don't use 20w50.
That's probably why you've had to rebuild so many big blocks, lol
20181105_133348 by 185 EZ, on Flickr

185EZ
Explorer
Explorer
I know you said your local FLAPS didn't have the proper viscosity but 20w50 isn't even close to being listed.
Not having problems with it is just your guess.
20w50 is used for high temp air cooled Harleys and my mercury racing motor recommends it especially since most of our boating is done in 85*+ temps.
That stuff must flow like molasses in january so the oil analysis would be beneficial for you.

This is your chart,

Screenshot_1 by 185 EZ, on Flickr

185EZ
Explorer
Explorer
Clearly we will butt heads all day long on this.
I have other vices that I can throw $3X.XX away in a heartbeat,
But if all you're trying to save is $3X.XX dollars a year on something critical then someone once told me,

"My thought is if one gripes over the cost of even (1) then RV's aren't for you"

udidwht
Explorer
Explorer
185EZ wrote:
You're misinterpreting everything I say.
I'm not griping over the cost of the analysis, I'm trying to justify it.
You're trying to beat the system by doing an analysis when it's just better to spend the money on an oil change.
What happens when they say you need an oil change? Now you have the cost of both.
In the long run you're the one wasting time and money while i'm enjoying fresh oil for my expensive ride.
Over a 3 year period I've spent about $150. Yours would be less with fewer qts of oil
If you take the time to send in an oil sample once a year you've spent $90 plus shipping?
Or are you going to wait till the extra 4000 miles and send in another oil sample?


No misinterpreting.

I can tell from (1) analysis over a given number of miles/time how long the will do it's job proper before needing changing. The VR-1 will start with a TBN of 8 in 3,720 miles (13mos) the TBN only dropped to 6.1

Still very excellent oil. It will do it's job no differently or less effectively than fresh oil. I'll skip (1) year. If my calculations are correct (based on other samples in the past in diff. vehicles) the oil will easily go another year. I've averaged between a 1-2.5 point TBN drop every 1 -1.5 years.

If I only spent $3X.XX dollars for oil & filter every (3) years I'll have saved money & time. And if I can go longer? No way to know unless you pull a sample...and how much do I save if I catch an impending issue via the analysis?

Priceless.

Anytime one saves that adds up to other savings.
1994 Fleetwood Southwind Storm
P-30 chassis 7.4L 454 TBI 58,301 miles and counting....(as of 06/08/19)
VIN# 1GBJP37N4R3314754
Flight System Generator man 360 (PM me)

185EZ
Explorer
Explorer
You're misinterpreting everything I say.
I'm not griping over the cost of the analysis, I'm trying to justify it.
You're trying to beat the system by doing an analysis when it's just better to spend the money on an oil change.
What happens when they say you need an oil change? Now you have the cost of both.
In the long run you're the one wasting time and money while i'm enjoying fresh oil for my expensive ride.
Over a 3 year period I've spent about $150. Yours would be less with fewer qts of oil
If you take the time to send in an oil sample once a year you've spent $90 plus shipping?
Or are you going to wait till the extra 4000 miles and send in another oil sample?

udidwht
Explorer
Explorer
185EZ wrote:
udidwht wrote:
185EZ wrote:
udidwht wrote:
185EZ wrote:

Maybe the oil is still "good" but to keep any oil in a motor for over a year is just asking for problems.
There is still stuff in the oil that's hard on seals and gaskets.



Again incorrect. A simple search can provide a lot of info on this.

There is not a single engine that has ever had an oil related issue as a result of going 6000-7000 miles.

Never. Fact.

Changing the oil more often than necessary has consequences. Oil requires some miles to be put on it before it actually lowers wear effectively vs 100% virgin oil out of a bottle. Much the same with an oil filter. A filter filters better after haven been in the engine for 1000 miles+.

A finding of high copper alone is not an issue and quite common unless other abrasive wear metal/s such as iron, aluminum, chromium, etc. are present at higher than normal levels.

Some reasons for high copper level:

1. Oil cooler/s (GM oil leaching from cooler)
2. Radiator/s tubing
3. Leaks from radiators (no leak in mine)
4. Oil additive/s

The above instance (high copper) would also be showing other higher than average wear metals & contaminates in an analysis if there were an issue. Copper in and of itself? No. Normal.

Again nope.
I never said anything about oil issues with oil going 6000 to 7000 miles. My manual suggests 7500 miles. I'm not going to send in an analysis to find out if I can still run the oil after that. I'd rather spend the $50 and just do an oil change.
I also said keeping old oil in the motor for over a year isn't a good idea.
Is 20w50 recommended for your climate?

edit;
I can't find anything that suggests oil and filters are more effective after 1000 miles.
If that's true then you sent in for an analysis at only 2,720 miles
Only thing I heard was KN air filters would do that.


The media of an oil filter will increase it's ability to trap fine particles better after haven been ran in an engine for some time. Larger holes fill and decrease in size over a period of time increasing the filters filtering efficiency.

It's similar with air filters as well. As they dirty they filter better. The RV I own I purchased used so I do an analysis from time to time. The price of an analysis is a drop i the bucket in terms of what most of us spend on these rigs.

My thought is if one gripes over the cost of even (1) then RV's aren't for you.

Used 20W-50 due to the local FLAPS not having the viscosity at the time of purchase. BBC have no issue with it.

If I could extend oil intervals to every 3 years that saves me time & money. Newer oil doesn't work better if the current oil is still doing it;s job just fine. The TBN is the number to look at.

A good read:

https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/
1994 Fleetwood Southwind Storm
P-30 chassis 7.4L 454 TBI 58,301 miles and counting....(as of 06/08/19)
VIN# 1GBJP37N4R3314754
Flight System Generator man 360 (PM me)

185EZ
Explorer
Explorer
udidwht wrote:
185EZ wrote:
udidwht wrote:
185EZ wrote:

Maybe the oil is still "good" but to keep any oil in a motor for over a year is just asking for problems.
There is still stuff in the oil that's hard on seals and gaskets.



Again incorrect. A simple search can provide a lot of info on this.

There is not a single engine that has ever had an oil related issue as a result of going 6000-7000 miles.

Never. Fact.

Changing the oil more often than necessary has consequences. Oil requires some miles to be put on it before it actually lowers wear effectively vs 100% virgin oil out of a bottle. Much the same with an oil filter. A filter filters better after haven been in the engine for 1000 miles+.

A finding of high copper alone is not an issue and quite common unless other abrasive wear metal/s such as iron, aluminum, chromium, etc. are present at higher than normal levels.

Some reasons for high copper level:

1. Oil cooler/s (GM oil leaching from cooler)
2. Radiator/s tubing
3. Leaks from radiators (no leak in mine)
4. Oil additive/s

The above instance (high copper) would also be showing other higher than average wear metals & contaminates in an analysis if there were an issue. Copper in and of itself? No. Normal.

Again nope.
I never said anything about oil issues with oil going 6000 to 7000 miles. My manual suggests 7500 miles. I'm not going to send in an analysis to find out if I can still run the oil after that. I'd rather spend the $50 and just do an oil change.
I also said keeping old oil in the motor for over a year isn't a good idea.
Is 20w50 recommended for your climate?

edit;
I can't find anything that suggests oil and filters are more effective after 1000 miles.
If that's true then you sent in for an analysis at only 2,720 miles
Only thing I heard was KN air filters would do that.