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agesilaus

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Posted: 10/11/18 03:20pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I was interested to see the actual fluid level is a lot lower than I expected. I'm looking at changing fluid in the front transfer case and rear differential since my truck is over 100K now.


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LIKE2BUILD

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Posted: 10/11/18 03:25pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I had to address outter wheel hub seal issues on my 2014 RAM 2500. When I did that work I also bought an AAM aluminum finned diff cover. It has the same internal volume as the stamped steel cover, but gives you the cooling action of the fins. I haven't taken temps on mine but other reports I've seen show significant decreases with the aluminum cover.


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Posted: 10/11/18 03:35pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

SidecarFlip wrote:


Only thing I wish was my stock cover (Corporate 10.25) has a drain plug in it. I have to pull the cover to drain mine, something I do every couple years.

You could remove the gear oil with something like this Topsider Fluid Extractor.

[image]
I bought one to use on my boat to change the oil, but it works great for remove diff gear oil as well. In fact, I've found several different uses in the garage so it's a pretty handy tool to keep around.

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Posted: 10/11/18 06:59pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

bobsallyh wrote:

Over the years I've been a fan of looking at rear ends, but not finned aftermarket covers. Can someone tell me how long the rear differential in our 2003 Dodge dually is going to run with 242,000 miles on the clock with the plain old OEM cover towing a 40' fiver?



I was a Ford mechanic for years and worked on many a rear end. What you said bobsallyh is very true. Never saw but one rear end burned up and it was a F350 were a boy got stuck and burned it to a crisp. Waste of good money.


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SidecarFlip

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Posted: 10/11/18 07:47pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Gail stated that a higher fluid level caused higher temps as the fluid churned around inside. Your outer bearings are lubed from the fluid getting tossed up by the ring gear, running over the pinion and out the axle shafts. I always use the 'feel method' on my hubs, if they are warm all is good. I've had seal issues as well on my Ford 10.25, I seem to have to replace the outboard seals about every 5 years or so. Not a big job so long as you have the right tools and a torque wrench that registers ;left and right. I bought the correct tools long ago for the front diff and the rear.

I've had my 60 full floater apart before. Seems as though Ford's 'better idea is plastic upper and lower joints that last a couple years. I've replaced them with greasable Moogs. With the diesel, that front end carries a lot of weight.


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Posted: 10/12/18 05:54am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

charwan wrote:

bobsallyh wrote:

Over the years I've been a fan of looking at rear ends, but not finned aftermarket covers. Can someone tell me how long the rear differential in our 2003 Dodge dually is going to run with 242,000 miles on the clock with the plain old OEM cover towing a 40' fiver?



I was a Ford mechanic for years and worked on many a rear end. What you said bobsallyh is very true. Never saw but one rear end burned up and it was a F350 were a boy got stuck and burned it to a crisp. Waste of good money.


No it doesn't happen often, but that doesn't mean it never happens. Carmakers wouldn't put all that money into R&D unless it was worth it!


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ib516

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Posted: 10/12/18 07:16am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If finned aluminium covers weren't needed or didn't have a benefit, the OEMs wouldn't go to the expense of adding them. It's a fact that aluminium dissipates heat better than steel. Any adult knows that. It's also a fact that adding surface area (fins) to anything that is hot will make it reject heat faster with the same BTU input. It should be plainly evident that a finned aluminium cover of the same, size, and shape as a stamped steel one, even with the same volume of gear oil will run cooler. How anyone can debate that is beyond me.

Now, as far as it being necessary, only the OEMs or axle manufacturers know that. I'll trust that they employ engineers that know what they are doing and that they design an axle assembly that can stand to run at max GCWR/GAWR, uphill, in extremely hot temps and survive.

Some may say they have xxx,xxx miles on their rear diff without a finned aluminium cover and never had an issue, that's great. But remember the OEMs have to design for worst case scenario that you may never experience.

Kind of the same concept as a diesel tuner. The OEMs need to design an engine calibration that will work just fine in Alaska at -45* and Death Valley at 120*.


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Groover

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Posted: 10/12/18 07:21am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I find it interesting that the entire discussion so far is concerned with keeping the differential cool but Ram recently added a differential warmer on some trucks. Overheating is bad but so is overcooling. Finding the sweet spot for your application is the trick.

Cummins12V98

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Posted: 10/12/18 07:38am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

LIKE2BUILD wrote:

SidecarFlip wrote:


Only thing I wish was my stock cover (Corporate 10.25) has a drain plug in it. I have to pull the cover to drain mine, something I do every couple years.

You could remove the gear oil with something like this Topsider Fluid Extractor.

[image]
I bought one to use on my boat to change the oil, but it works great for remove diff gear oil as well. In fact, I've found several different uses in the garage so it's a pretty handy tool to keep around.


Personally want to look at the condition of the gears and get all the lube out.

Af far as boat oil drain I added a Fumoto and will add a clear poly tube and run out the drain plug hole into a bucket.

[image]
[image]


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ib516

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Posted: 10/12/18 08:59am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Groover wrote:

I find it interesting that the entire discussion so far is concerned with keeping the differential cool but Ram recently added a differential warmer on some trucks. Overheating is bad but so is overcooling. Finding the sweet spot for your application is the trick.

I think they added the rear diff heater for mpg reasons for times when the very viscous gear oil is cold - not sure where you're from but where I'm from, 80w90 gear oil is like a bar of soap at -40 and will rob mpg until it reaches operating temp. When we see the data from Banks on the running temps of gear oil, I suspect it will be higher than running temp of the coolant, or maybe RAM has a way of turning the coolant flow to the rear diff on and off depending on temperature.

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