NRALIFR wrote:
I have a shallow truck-bed tool box that was given to me several years ago. I turned it into a front-hitch storage box that Iโve used to haul gear that I donโt want inside the truck or camper on three trucks now. Itโs been through several revisions and upgrades, and I think Iโm on revision seven or eight now. Iโve used it on three trucks, and it hasnโt caused any problems at all.
I discovered very quickly I needed some reminders that it was out there because I canโt see any of it from the drivers seat. I put some fiberglass reflector rods on it first (above), then later bought some Bores brand bumper guides like the big trucks have (below). Coincidentally, the ones Bores make for the Ford F450โs were the straightest ones they had, and were exactly what I needed. The bumper guides have little lights on top that Iโve connected to the running lights.
Next, I needed some ditch lights on the front of the box to help out when Iโm trying to find a turn I need to take at night.........driving down an unlit road...........with no moon.....(really, really dark!). I bought some Hella driving lights, which were great until one of them took a rock and I found out that a replacement lens was going to cost nearly as much as the pair cost originally.
So, I bought some LED lights that cost less than the replacement lens was going to cost.
There were a few other little tweeks and adjustments along the way that required some cutting and welding. The first version was a fixed height, but I worried that it might cause a clearance problem for me someday, so I bought a pintle hitch mount for a 2โ receiver with a lot of up-down adjustability and had a matching plate welded on the rack that carries the tool box. Now I can move it up about 8โ if needed. It doesnโt seem to affect the engine or transmission cooling at all.
Two turnbuckles keep the box rock steady.
I use the box to carry a Webber grill, a Yamaha 1000 generator, a roll-up table, and a few other little things. The only problem has been that itโs a few inches too short for the generator, so I have to lean it over at an angle for the lid to shut. I have to make sure that the gas cap is on tight, the vent closed, the fuel shut off, and the carburetor side is facing up. I decided itโs time to fix that issue, so I started looking for some way to put a โbumpโ on the top so the Yamaha can sit up straight. Plan B is to drop a section of the bottom, but Iโd have to place it to the left or right of center since the hitch tube is right in the middle. I havenโt decided which way to go yet.
I started looking for some type of aluminum pan, tray or box that I could use. I eventually discovered that some commercial cake pans are made exactly like I wanted, and would be cheaper than having something custom made. I found a pan thatโs 12โx18โx3โ with 90 degree sides, square welded corner seams, a flat lip around the top edge rather than rolled, and made of heavy aluminum.
So now I just need to cut a hole in the box and rivet it in place, then my generator will be able to stand up straight in the box.
:):)
Wow, so much good information, and you really went all out! What are you using for the base, did you fab your own or did you buy one and just put the box on top of it? You literally have thought of everything!
I have a shallow truck-bed tool box that was given to me several years ago. I turned it into a front-hitch storage box that Iโve used to haul gear that I donโt want inside the truck or camper on three trucks now. Itโs been through several revisions and upgrades, and I think Iโm on revision seven or eight now. Iโve used it on three trucks, and it hasnโt caused any problems at all.
I discovered very quickly I needed some reminders that it was out there because I canโt see any of it from the drivers seat. I put some fiberglass reflector rods on it first (above), then later bought some Bores brand bumper guides like the big trucks have (below). Coincidentally, the ones Bores make for the Ford F450โs were the straightest ones they had, and were exactly what I needed. The bumper guides have little lights on top that Iโve connected to the running lights.
Next, I needed some ditch lights on the front of the box to help out when Iโm trying to find a turn I need to take at night.........driving down an unlit road...........with no moon.....(really, really dark!). I bought some Hella driving lights, which were great until one of them took a rock and I found out that a replacement lens was going to cost nearly as much as the pair cost originally.
So, I bought some LED lights that cost less than the replacement lens was going to cost.
There were a few other little tweeks and adjustments along the way that required some cutting and welding. The first version was a fixed height, but I worried that it might cause a clearance problem for me someday, so I bought a pintle hitch mount for a 2โ receiver with a lot of up-down adjustability and had a matching plate welded on the rack that carries the tool box. Now I can move it up about 8โ if needed. It doesnโt seem to affect the engine or transmission cooling at all.
Two turnbuckles keep the box rock steady.
I use the box to carry a Webber grill, a Yamaha 1000 generator, a roll-up table, and a few other little things. The only problem has been that itโs a few inches too short for the generator, so I have to lean it over at an angle for the lid to shut. I have to make sure that the gas cap is on tight, the vent closed, the fuel shut off, and the carburetor side is facing up. I decided itโs time to fix that issue, so I started looking for some way to put a โbumpโ on the top so the Yamaha can sit up straight. Plan B is to drop a section of the bottom, but Iโd have to place it to the left or right of center since the hitch tube is right in the middle. I havenโt decided which way to go yet.
I started looking for some type of aluminum pan, tray or box that I could use. I eventually discovered that some commercial cake pans are made exactly like I wanted, and would be cheaper than having something custom made. I found a pan thatโs 12โx18โx3โ with 90 degree sides, square welded corner seams, a flat lip around the top edge rather than rolled, and made of heavy aluminum.
So now I just need to cut a hole in the box and rivet it in place, then my generator will be able to stand up straight in the box.
:):)
I discovered very quickly I needed some reminders that it was out there because I canโt see any of it from the drivers seat. I put some fiberglass reflector rods on it first (above), then later bought some Bores brand bumper guides like the big trucks have (below). Coincidentally, the ones Bores make for the Ford F450โs were the straightest ones they had, and were exactly what I needed. The bumper guides have little lights on top that Iโve connected to the running lights.
Next, I needed some ditch lights on the front of the box to help out when Iโm trying to find a turn I need to take at night.........driving down an unlit road...........with no moon.....(really, really dark!). I bought some Hella driving lights, which were great until one of them took a rock and I found out that a replacement lens was going to cost nearly as much as the pair cost originally.
So, I bought some LED lights that cost less than the replacement lens was going to cost.
There were a few other little tweeks and adjustments along the way that required some cutting and welding. The first version was a fixed height, but I worried that it might cause a clearance problem for me someday, so I bought a pintle hitch mount for a 2โ receiver with a lot of up-down adjustability and had a matching plate welded on the rack that carries the tool box. Now I can move it up about 8โ if needed. It doesnโt seem to affect the engine or transmission cooling at all.
Two turnbuckles keep the box rock steady.
I use the box to carry a Webber grill, a Yamaha 1000 generator, a roll-up table, and a few other little things. The only problem has been that itโs a few inches too short for the generator, so I have to lean it over at an angle for the lid to shut. I have to make sure that the gas cap is on tight, the vent closed, the fuel shut off, and the carburetor side is facing up. I decided itโs time to fix that issue, so I started looking for some way to put a โbumpโ on the top so the Yamaha can sit up straight. Plan B is to drop a section of the bottom, but Iโd have to place it to the left or right of center since the hitch tube is right in the middle. I havenโt decided which way to go yet.
I started looking for some type of aluminum pan, tray or box that I could use. I eventually discovered that some commercial cake pans are made exactly like I wanted, and would be cheaper than having something custom made. I found a pan thatโs 12โx18โx3โ with 90 degree sides, square welded corner seams, a flat lip around the top edge rather than rolled, and made of heavy aluminum.
So now I just need to cut a hole in the box and rivet it in place, then my generator will be able to stand up straight in the box.
:):)
Here is my box. First on my 2000 F250 now on a 1999 E250.
Only use it for one trip in the fall each year but have had no problems. I carry about 300 lbs in it.
Only use it for one trip in the fall each year but have had no problems. I carry about 300 lbs in it.
I'm liking the general consensus. This bumper is kind of a curse. I think the tube is a little bit higher than I need it and will definitely block. If I have to install a Curt/Reese receiver for the front, I'm sure the bumper will interfere with that as well and I don't want to cut into the bumper to allow for a lower hitch receiver option. May have to sell that thing soon. It makes working on the truck a royal pain too. Anyway. I plan to carry thing's like Honda 2200 watt generator, gear, etc. Shouldn't weigh more than 300 lbs max and I think the front Axle will accommodate it.
