cancel
Showing results forย 
Search instead forย 
Did you mean:ย 

Water heater anode rod

drsteve
Explorer
Explorer
My two year old Coachmen has a Suburban water heater. How long can I expect the anode rod to last? This is what the current rod looks like:



When I replace it, should I get a magnesium rod, or an aluminum one?

Thanks in advance!
2006 Silverado 1500HD Crew Cab 2WD 6.0L 3.73 8600 GVWR
2018 Coachmen Catalina Legacy Edition 223RBS
1991 Palomino Filly PUP
18 REPLIES 18

Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Explorer III
Must be some good water along the West Coast! This anode was installed 10/16. I checked it 10/17 and re installed. I checked it yesterday and flushed out the tank with NOTHING coming out. I added liquid teflon to the threads and re installed. Will check again 10/19.

Picture posting does not seem to be working right now.

UPDATE

2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's
37,800# GCVWR "Towing Beast"

"HeavyWeight" B&W RVK3600

2016 MobileSuites 39TKSB3 highly "Elited" In the stable

2007.5 Mobile Suites 36 SB3 29,000# Combined SOLD

Dave_H_M
Explorer
Explorer
I would start with the 3/8 impact at a low setting. Rattle a bit and then inch up the pressure. Use the big gun as a last resort.

I have a cheap tap that I bought off ebay to chase those threads - just enough to get the crud out of the threads. And I always use Teflon tape on the install.

MFL
Nomad II
Nomad II
Yes, when anode/heater threads are rusted, or corroded, WH can be damaged by use of impact, or cheater bar. If you do get it out, the use of teflon tape will make next removal much easier. Be sure to clean up the threads before reinstalling.

Jerry

Lynnmor
Explorer
Explorer
HadEnough wrote:
Any tips on getting corroded rods out of water heaters?

I can't seem to turn mine at all.


An impact wrench will get it out, but there is the possibility of damage.

HadEnough
Explorer
Explorer
Any tips on getting corroded rods out of water heaters?

I can't seem to turn mine at all.

Lynnmor
Explorer
Explorer
SidecarFlip wrote:
I miss the Atwood HWH I ad in my old camper. No anode rod needed. The tank was glass lined.


I understand that Atwood has an aluminum tank and Suburban has a glass lined steel tank. The anode rod is to protect the glass to steel transition at connections.

Old-Biscuit
Explorer II
Explorer II
SidecarFlip wrote:
Don't substitute an aluminum rod for the magnesium OEM rod. Your Suburban water heater tank could get a hole in it if you do.

You have another season left on your rod. I'd get a spare just in case and don't forget to flush out your tank before reinstalling your old rod, the white stuff is sitting in the bottom of your hot water tank and needs flushed out.


Suburban supplies BOTH
Magnesium is OEM rod cause it provides the most protection BUT can react with microbes in water supply and give off a sulfur smell

Aluminum is OPTIONAL rod. Doesn't provide same level of protection as magnesium but is a good option when magnesium creates issues

Pros/cons for either
Is it time for your medication or mine?


2007 DODGE 3500 QC SRW 5.9L CTD In-Bed 'quiet gen'
2007 HitchHiker II 32.5 UKTG 2000W Xantex Inverter
US NAVY------USS Decatur DDG31

ktmrfs
Explorer
Explorer
how long depends a great deal on the water you use. For us and many of the places we go, the anode rod will last 5 years or more. Anode rod in our S&B lasts 15-20 years, as long as the water heater. Now my folks and brother in midwest replace S&B anode rod every few years and have yet to get 10 years out of a S&B water heater.
2011 Keystone Outback 295RE
2004 14' bikehauler with full living quarters
2015.5 Denali 4x4 CC/SB Duramax/Allison
2004.5 Silverado 4x4 CC/SB Duramax/Allison passed on to our Son!

mike-s
Explorer
Explorer
2 years old, you've got another 5+ years to go with the water you've been using. Less if you run into some bad stuff.

As long as there's some sacrificial metal left at the end of the season, all is good. Looks like you've got at least 80-90% left.

drsteve
Explorer
Explorer
SidecarFlip wrote:
I miss the Atwood HWH I ad in my old camper. No anode rod needed. The tank was glass lined.


Same here.

I gave this one a flush when I was winterizing and was surprised with the flakes and sediment that came out, which I assume is the remains of the rod. I hope none of it decides to make its way to the plumbing fixtures...
2006 Silverado 1500HD Crew Cab 2WD 6.0L 3.73 8600 GVWR
2018 Coachmen Catalina Legacy Edition 223RBS
1991 Palomino Filly PUP

SidecarFlip
Explorer
Explorer
I miss the Atwood HWH I ad in my old camper. No anode rod needed. The tank was glass lined.
2015 Backpack SS1500
1997 Ford 7.3 OBS 4x4 CC LB

SidecarFlip
Explorer
Explorer
Don't substitute an aluminum rod for the magnesium OEM rod. Your Suburban water heater tank could get a hole in it if you do.

You have another season left on your rod. I'd get a spare just in case and don't forget to flush out your tank before reinstalling your old rod, the white stuff is sitting in the bottom of your hot water tank and needs flushed out.
2015 Backpack SS1500
1997 Ford 7.3 OBS 4x4 CC LB

MFL
Nomad II
Nomad II
Yes, OEM is magnesium. The mag rods have a little dimple in the center of the head (threaded end).

Jerry

drsteve
Explorer
Explorer
MFL wrote:
Magnesium is the recommended choice, and should last for a year, or more, depending on water quality. If really bad water, and going through the mag rods quickly, then the aluminum rod is a better choice, and will last longer. The aluminum rod, does not give as much protection as the magnesium one.

If your current rod is mag, and looks that good after 2 years, you are doing very well, and likely using good water.

Jerry


That's the OEM rod, so I assume it's magnesium. I fill at home with soft water. I have heard that the aluminum rods last longer, didn't know about the lower level of protection. I'll stick with mag for a replacement.

Thanks, guys!
2006 Silverado 1500HD Crew Cab 2WD 6.0L 3.73 8600 GVWR
2018 Coachmen Catalina Legacy Edition 223RBS
1991 Palomino Filly PUP