Replacing Water Heater Bypass Valve

[SanMarMor]

Our trailer has a B&B remote bypass valve. As I was winterizing today, I went to switch back to normal mode to allow some antifreeze into the heater tank, and the handle broke off inside the valve, popping it apart and squirting from pump pressure.

So now I need to replace the valve, and for a cheap plastic valve, the best price I found is $57. Then it looks like the Pex tubing is crimped right to the valve, and it doesn’t have screw on fittings.

I’d replace this valve with a cheaper bypass, but I don’t really have access to the back of the water heater to switch the valves. And I’d have to replumb a fair amount to take the existing valve out of the system, and I can’t really access that pluming.

Has anyone replaced this valve, and if so, can you shed some light on what’s involved to replace it?

Mark

[SanMarMor]

SCClockDr wrote:
Is the valve that failed a 3 way or open/closed?

It’s a plastic bodied 3 way. One valve to bybass the heater, instead of two like the ones that mount right at the tank. I did figure out I can get to tank mounted valves from inside, if I go that way, which would be cheaper. I just have to figure out how to plumb the 3 way valve out of the system. Next spring though. It’s in storage, and I headed to Florida.

[Farmboy666]

A decent brass ball valve is about $15.00. There aren't hose clamps on your valve because they won't seal the pex tubing. Use Sharkbite fittings or crimp tool on pex.

[SCClockDr]

Is the valve that failed a 3 way or open/closed?

[drsteve]

Is there room to trim the PEX back and use Shark Bite fittings? Then you can use whatever (inexpensive) valve you like.

[mchero]

My valve is in the bedroom closet but I do have one valve on the rear of the Atwood EXT water heater.
Keep us posted.

[djousma]

SanMarMor wrote:
The purpose of the valve is to not have to fill the water heater with twelve gallons of antifreeze. I was just putting a little in, to make sure the lines from the valve to the tank had antifreeze.

I agree with getting the water out of the lines, especially the short section between the valve and the heater. In my old trailer, there was a bit of water there, and the check valve, both failed. Now, I dont put AF in there, but before I winterize, I blow out the lines in normal mode to clear the water out of that section of lines, then turn the bypass on, and add the AF.

EDIT: and my bypass is also on the water panel with 8-10' of line from it to water heater. I have had good success just blowing all the lines out with the panel set on city water, after draining the water from the heater. Then setting the bypass, and adding AF

[SanMarMor]

Maybe I didn’t note it clearly. My bypass valve isn’t located at the water heater. It’s a remote valve located in the docking station in the basement, ten feet away from the water heater. If the valve was on the water heater, I couldn’t get to it to use it, without tearing out the water heater every time I winterize. Or tearing out it cabinets on the inside of the trailer.

And if by some way I could use the valves at the water heater, I’d have to replumb the existing valve out of the system.

[mchero]

The only way your going to properly replace the valve is pull the water heater and install a quality valve. I'm sure you did not want to hear this but that's the only way. It's next to impossible trying to replace w/o pulling the whole shootin match.

[SanMarMor]

The purpose of the valve is to not have to fill the water heater with twelve gallons of antifreeze. I was just putting a little in, to make sure the lines from the valve to the tank had antifreeze.

[Roger10378]

I can't help much on replacing the valve as I can't see what you have, but I have to say the reason for the bypass is to keep all antifreeze out of the water heater. Why did you want to let some antifreeze in the WH. It is difficult to get all the taste out in the spring.