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Blowing out water lines in Class A

flyboykuao
Explorer
Explorer
Apologies if this was answered in previous posts. I suspect there is a very simple answer. This forum and YouTube have been very helpful yet I have one open question:

I plan to winterize my RV using air. I plan to use our 12v car tire pumper upper. It connects to the stem on a car tire or bicycle tire.

However, the "adapter" parts I see on Amazon all appear to connect to the male part of a pressure hose - not the type of stem that is on a car tire.

1. Does anyone have experience using the 12v car fire inflator to also be used to blow water our of RV lines? Is it effective?
2. I assume there is an adapter that will connect to my RV's fresh water intake and also to the female of the 12v unit (which is used to connect to a car tire)?

Thanks for your help.
34 REPLIES 34

et2
Explorer
Explorer
Out of my Cummins owner manual:

EXERCIZING THE GENSET

Exercise the genset at least 2 hours each month if use is infrequent. Run the genset at approximately 1/2 rated power. See LOADING THE GENSET (Page 10). A single two hour exercise period is better than several shorter periods.
Exercising a genset drives off moisture, re-lubri- cates the engine, replaces stale fuel and removes oxides from electrical contacts. The result is better starting, more reliable operation and longer engine life.


Of course it's your generator and you can determine what you wish.

et2
Explorer
Explorer
JaxDad wrote:
Solo wrote:
JaxDad wrote:


So now I know why Iโ€™m confused, the manual for mine makes no such admonition (page 8 in the attached link) against using compressed air to winterize.

I guess weโ€™ve been lucky that in 10 years and winterizing multiple times each year weโ€™ve never had any issues, nor our friends who also use air on theirs.

AquaHot Manual clicky


Depends upon the model of Aqua Hot on whether they place that warning in the Owner's Manual or not it appears.

From my Aqua Hot Manual, "WARNING! YOU CANNOT BLOW DOMESTIC WATER
COIL OUT WITH AIR TO WINTERIZE AQUA-HOT."

Doesn't make sense if using compressed air "correctly" ........


I suspect itโ€™s another instance like the need to โ€˜exerciseโ€™ a generator, even though nothing but the ownership of Onan changed, suddenly there was a need to run them on a monthly basis or all sorts of terrible things would happen.



I'm not really understanding you. One of your first posts in response to mine you stated you blow your's out because the manufacture said so. Then you post the actual manual that tells you to specifically use anti- freeze "because of the Aqua hot ( which I copied and pasted).

But you explained your puzzlement and that just because it wasn't printed that you couldn't just blow it out, actually meant you could? I don't get that reasoning. Just because nothing has happened doesn't mean it won't.

They don't print things just because. I'd suspect the manufactures know what they're doing and the reason it's printed. Kind of like people not checking their tire pressures before each trip. It was fine all along ... Until they have a blow out and then blame the tire manufacture.

Again .... Know your systems and read the manuals. As you can see with this thread, everyone has an opinion. Manuals aren't opinions.

JaxDad
Explorer III
Explorer III
Solo wrote:
JaxDad wrote:


So now I know why Iโ€™m confused, the manual for mine makes no such admonition (page 8 in the attached link) against using compressed air to winterize.

I guess weโ€™ve been lucky that in 10 years and winterizing multiple times each year weโ€™ve never had any issues, nor our friends who also use air on theirs.

AquaHot Manual clicky


Depends upon the model of Aqua Hot on whether they place that warning in the Owner's Manual or not it appears.

From my Aqua Hot Manual, "WARNING! YOU CANNOT BLOW DOMESTIC WATER
COIL OUT WITH AIR TO WINTERIZE AQUA-HOT."

Doesn't make sense if using compressed air "correctly" ........


I suspect itโ€™s another instance like the need to โ€˜exerciseโ€™ a generator, even though nothing but the ownership of Onan changed, suddenly there was a need to run them on a monthly basis or all sorts of terrible things would happen.

Solo
Explorer
Explorer
JaxDad wrote:


So now I know why Iโ€™m confused, the manual for mine makes no such admonition (page 8 in the attached link) against using compressed air to winterize.

I guess weโ€™ve been lucky that in 10 years and winterizing multiple times each year weโ€™ve never had any issues, nor our friends who also use air on theirs.

AquaHot Manual clicky


Depends upon the model of Aqua Hot on whether they place that warning in the Owner's Manual or not it appears.

From my Aqua Hot Manual, "WARNING! YOU CANNOT BLOW DOMESTIC WATER
COIL OUT WITH AIR TO WINTERIZE AQUA-HOT."

Doesn't make sense if using compressed air "correctly" but, I blow mine out, then follow with approved anti-freeze as per manufacture's recommendation. I've heard horror stories about owner's failing to winterize their Aqua Hot sufficiently and the result being obscenely expensive. I've always blown everything out over my RVing history of many decades but, I'm not rolling the dice with our current Aqua Hot system. Simple and inexpensive to follow the recommendation.

Back to the OP question, I suggest following your manufacture's recommendations. If they suggest using compressed air, as others have already mentioned, your tire inflator likely will not produce enough volume.
Solo
2011 Itasca Ellipse 42QD, 450 HP ISL Cummins
2012 Jeep JKU with SMI DUO Braking System

et2
Explorer
Explorer
Section 5 page 8 of your manual: ( I copied and pasted , the format is weird ).

But it did say to use an adequate amount of FDA approved RV anti freeze, and the procedure to winterize the Aqua hot.

Hey it's your rig. But I'm the kind of guy that follows the manufactures recommendations and I don't read anything else into it. Your Aqua hot, your money. Damage it and it'll get expensive.

$25 in anti-freeze stops me from holding my breath. And I do blow out the whole rig too for what it's worth.

Again telling someone just to blow it out and forget about it .... Glad it wasn't me who would take that advice.


Your manual

SECTION 5: WINTERIZATION
Storage, continued
C. Attachanadequatepieceofhoseontothesuctionsideofthedomestic water demand pump.
D. PlacetheoppositeendofthehoseintoanadequatesupplyofFDA approved RV-Antifreeze.
E. Open / close all interior and exterior water faucets, one at a time, until only pure RV-Antifreeze is present. Perform this procedure for both the hot and cold faucets.
F. Remove the hose and reconnect the domestic water demand pump's suction line to the fresh water storage tank.
G. DisconnectallelectricalpowersuppliestotheAqua-Hotduringstorage.

JaxDad
Explorer III
Explorer III
et2 wrote:
JaxDad wrote:
et2 wrote:
Yes there are, anyone with a aqua hot and I assume other similar systems require antifreeze added to the water lines. They can't just be blown out with air. Any water left in the system could burst the copper coils. States right in the manual.


Iโ€™m at a complete loss to understand why the coils in the AquaHot system would be any different than the rest of the water system

Can you explain why you think they are?


It's not up to me to decide. I know my systems and have read the manual. Like you said you know what your manufactures procedure is, so do I.

Here's the exact print from my owners manual

Winterize the Aqua-Hot
The Aqua-Hot can remain on during the winter months. If the motorhome is to be winterized and stored over the winter with the Aqua-Hot turned off, the Aqua- Hot domestic water loop must be winterized with FDA approved RV antifreeze to prevent freeze

FDA approved RV antifreeze must be pumped through the Aqua- Hot until the solution appears at the hot water side of a faucet. The on-board water pump can be used (see illustration) to purge water from the Aqua-Hot domestic water loop.
Refer to the Aqua-Hot ownerโ€™s manual for complete winterizing instructions. If the system is operating from AC electric and a power outage occurs, extensive damage to the Aqua-Hot may occur.


From aqua hot manual

Not winterizing the Aqua-Hot when freezing temperatures are present will result in serious damage to the Aqua-Hotโ€™s Domestic Water Heating System. Also, be sure to use an FDA approved, โ€œGRASโ€ rated antifreeze for An FDA approved โ€œGRASโ€ rated winterization antifreeze must be used.

YOU CANNOT BLOW DOMESTIC WATER COIL OUT WITH AIR TO WINTERIZE AQUA-HOT.


I hope that helps you. I have ny thoughts why, but I'm not the expert. As I simply stated before, know your own rig and what's required.


So now I know why Iโ€™m confused, the manual for mine makes no such admonition (page 8 in the attached link) against using compressed air to winterize.

I guess weโ€™ve been lucky that in 10 years and winterizing multiple times each year weโ€™ve never had any issues, nor our friends who also use air on theirs.

AquaHot Manual clicky

et2
Explorer
Explorer
JaxDad wrote:
et2 wrote:
Yes there are, anyone with a aqua hot and I assume other similar systems require antifreeze added to the water lines. They can't just be blown out with air. Any water left in the system could burst the copper coils. States right in the manual.


Iโ€™m at a complete loss to understand why the coils in the AquaHot system would be any different than the rest of the water system

Can you explain why you think they are?


It's not up to me to decide. I know my systems and have read the manual. Like you said you know what your manufactures procedure is, so do I.

Here's the exact print from my owners manual

Winterize the Aqua-Hot
The Aqua-Hot can remain on during the winter months. If the motorhome is to be winterized and stored over the winter with the Aqua-Hot turned off, the Aqua- Hot domestic water loop must be winterized with FDA approved RV antifreeze to prevent freeze

FDA approved RV antifreeze must be pumped through the Aqua- Hot until the solution appears at the hot water side of a faucet. The on-board water pump can be used (see illustration) to purge water from the Aqua-Hot domestic water loop.
Refer to the Aqua-Hot ownerโ€™s manual for complete winterizing instructions. If the system is operating from AC electric and a power outage occurs, extensive damage to the Aqua-Hot may occur.


From aqua hot manual

Not winterizing the Aqua-Hot when freezing temperatures are present will result in serious damage to the Aqua-Hotโ€™s Domestic Water Heating System. Also, be sure to use an FDA approved, โ€œGRASโ€ rated antifreeze for An FDA approved โ€œGRASโ€ rated winterization antifreeze must be used.

YOU CANNOT BLOW DOMESTIC WATER COIL OUT WITH AIR TO WINTERIZE AQUA-HOT.


I hope that helps you. I have ny thoughts why, but I'm not the expert. As I simply stated before, know your own rig and what's required.

JaxDad
Explorer III
Explorer III
et2 wrote:
Yes there are, anyone with a aqua hot and I assume other similar systems require antifreeze added to the water lines. They can't just be blown out with air. Any water left in the system could burst the copper coils. States right in the manual.


Iโ€™m at a complete loss to understand why the coils in the AquaHot system would be any different than the rest of the water system

Can you explain why you think they are?

et2
Explorer
Explorer
JaxDad wrote:
et2 wrote:
Anyone here telling you to just use air and not to worry about it could very easily get you into a whole BUNCH of trouble. It could cost you many thousands of dollars to fix.


In my case the โ€˜anyoneโ€™ telling me to use air is Winnebago (Itasca) the nice folks that built, and warrrantied, my (and many, many thousands of others) motorhomes.

Maybe they just donโ€™t know as much as some others do..........



Like I said "know" your system. I guess you do. But to assume everyone else does you would be mistaken. Not all are the same, and the comments made in this thread many people here do think it's the same for everyone. It's not.

It's called owners manuals. Many people fail to read them and Come on forums getting answers that will get them in trouble.

et2
Explorer
Explorer
Yes there are, anyone with a aqua hot and I assume other similar systems require antifreeze added to the water lines. They can't just be blown out with air. Any water left in the system could burst the copper coils. States right in the manual.

JaxDad
Explorer III
Explorer III
et2 wrote:
Anyone here telling you to just use air and not to worry about it could very easily get you into a whole BUNCH of trouble. It could cost you many thousands of dollars to fix.


In my case the โ€˜anyoneโ€™ telling me to use air is Winnebago (Itasca) the nice folks that built, and warrrantied, my (and many, many thousands of others) motorhomes.

Maybe they just donโ€™t know as much as some others do..........

Rick_Jay
Explorer II
Explorer II
et2,

I'm with DrewE on this. When would blowing out the lines (properly) NOT be satisfactory when filling them with antifreeze (properly) would? Are there some new plumbing fixtures being used on RVs I'm not aware of? Once the temperature is consistently below 32 degree F, it doesn't matter where you're located.

And my excuse for not using antifreeze isn't too funny. I don't use it because there's no need to use it. ๐Ÿ™‚

~Rick
2005 Georgie Boy Cruise Master 3625 DS on a Workhorse W-22
Rick, Gail, 1 girl (27-Angel since 2008), 1 girl (22), 2 boys (23 & 20).
2001 Honda Odyssey, Demco Aluminator tow bar & tow plate, SMI Silent Partner brake controller.

DrewE
Explorer
Explorer
et2 wrote:

Can blowing it out be enough? Yes it could, depending where you live and "if " you do it right, and have no systems needing more protection.

Some of the excuses not to use antifreeze are pretty funny. Even using antifreeze you can still have broken pipes if not done right.


Proper procedures are of course needed with any winterization method.

I'm rather puzzled by the idea that where one lives would matter here, though. The only geographic question is whether one needs to winterize at all or not; if it gets cold enough to be necessary, then it is cold enough to need to be done properly. Blowing out the lines is fine for temperatures far below zero, just as antifreeze is; neither air nor antifreeze will freeze and expand and burst pipes.

I'm also a bit puzzled what systems might need "more" protection than not having water in them, but I'm not familiar with every possible RV plumbing fixture so maybe am ignorant there.

et2
Explorer
Explorer
The most important thing for you is to know and understand the systems in your rig that involves water. Anyone here telling you to just use air and not to worry about it could very easily get you into a whole BUNCH of trouble. It could cost you many thousands of dollars to fix.

Can blowing it out be enough? Yes it could, depending where you live and "if " you do it right, and have no systems needing more protection.

Some of the excuses not to use antifreeze are pretty funny. Even using antifreeze you can still have broken pipes if not done right.