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It's getting easier

DutchmenSport
Explorer
Explorer
Yes, easier!

It's been almost 3 months now since we took delivery of our new 5er and we've been on several trips and outings in this short time.

Tomorrow it goes back to my dealer so they can do their 90 day inspection of the unit. It goes back so any warranty items can be identified and fixed, anything the owner is not happy with will be looked at and fixed if its a real issue, and a time to give feed back to the dealer.

There is only a couple small problems with mine, and that is one pull blind came apart the first time we pulled it. The front door (passenger side) drags at the top and needs adjustment. And, the water hose hook-up leaks. So, we've been using the fresh water tank and not hooking up directly to the water spigot. But, we never hooked up to a water spigot anyway with our last camper. Still, it has to be hooked up to fill the fresh water tank, unlike the last trailer that was simply gravity filled. Those are the only issues. Little things, I've simply fixed myself.

Now, about getting "easier." So, considering I'm taking it back to the dealer tomorrow morning, I hitched up tonight. It took about 10 minutes to hitch up, from start to finish. I even impressed myself.

I've done a couple things to make hitching a whole lot easier. First is that 4 foot step ladder so I can reach over the fat fenders of the dually. I can easily reach the release lever for the jaws on the 5er hitch now.

Next, I tied a knot in that long break-away cable and found a good spot to hook it. I'm using a D-ring with the spring loaded snap. It works great! There again, the ladder makes it possible to reach everything easily.

Next, I got a set of those yellow balls on the end of an antenna rod. One attaches on the 5er king pin area, the other on the 5er hitch in the bed of the truck. A third line, 2 inches of black tape, and when all 3 are in alignment, I' know I'm right spot on for hooking-up!

Next, I had problems getting the 5er raised high enough to actually hitch up. I'd back up and raise the hitch, and raise again, and raise again. Then it would be too high, then too low. It was frustrating getting it just right.

Once when it was hitched, I raised the trailer to unhitch. Then I took a Command hook and put it on the side corner of the over hang. I took a long stick and put a hook in the end. I then measured the exact distance from the Command Hook to the ground and cut the wooden rod exactly. I can now hang the wooded rod on the Command Hook and when it just clears the ground, I know the 5er king pin is as exactly the right height to hitch up. I also use it to unhitch, once it clears the ground and swings free, I know the trailer is high enough to comfortably unhitch. It took a while to come up with this idea, but it works so well now. I'm hoping, in time, I won't need that crutch any more. But for now, it works marvelously.

I'm pretty much conquered backing into the drive way and campsites. using empty parking lots and did a lot of measurements and placing objects on the ground to figure out how much distance I need to make the trailer pivot at just the right spot and how much swing my trailer and truck require. These self-taught lessons have paid off. I find backing from the "blind" side, actually easier than from the driver side. Which is bizzare, because all my travel trailers, backing on the blind side was something I absolutely hated. It's actually pretty easy with the 5er now. I like right hand backing much more now than left hand backing. Amazing. It's actually easier. So .. PLUS ONE for the 5er!

The actual hitching time is about the same still. It's just getting easier now. Practice, practice, practice, experience, and time it's working for me.

Anyway, there's my 3 month report for anyone following my drama ... which is easier... TT or 5er?
26 REPLIES 26

mr__ed
Explorer
Explorer
I enjoyed reading your narrative, Dutchmensport. Reminds me of my first time with a fiver. In 2008 I went from a class A MH to a 29' fiver (Hitchhiker brand). I had no real issues with it, except for a minor adjustment to the entry door. It served me very well until I had to sell it about 4 yrs ago due to a sudden disability. One of the saddest days in my life. Anyhow, like you, I had to get used to parking it, that is, backing it into a space. Like you said, after a fairly short time you get pretty good at it. Same with hitching and unhitching. Also, when making turns it's necessary to swing wide on many occasions. To me, learning wasn't a dreaded chore, but enjoyable, As long as I didn't damage my rig during the learning process. :E
Mr. Ed (fulltiming since 1987)
Life is fragile. Handle with prayer.

2007 Hitchhiker II LS Model 29.5 LKTG (sold)
2007 Dodge Ram 3500/6.7 CTD/QC/4X4/SB/SRW/6-speed man/Big Horn edition (sold)

Dave_H_M
Explorer
Explorer
i got a gizmo that is just glued to the side of the trailer. When you unhitch you set the level to level when the hitch is at the correct height.

When you re hitch, just level up the bubble.

transamz9
Explorer
Explorer
Lantley wrote:
transamz9 wrote:
It seems lot of you guys overthink things. I just get it close then back up to the hitch. If it's not right I get out and push the up or down button till it is in the tight place then back under. Pretty simple.

I get it your method works. But my auto level will automatically return to hitching height.
There are also techniques and gadgets that will eliminate the need to get out and check because the height is known to be correct!


My auto level has the same feature but it's not always right. There are a lot of variables that can make it wrong. It only uses the front landing gear to get back to hitch height and depending upon how much the rear was lifted in the leveling process mine has been off a couple inches by using this feature.

I understand that everyone want to make things as easy as possible but I still recommend getting out and looking before backing under 100%. Accidents happen by taking things for granted. ๐Ÿ˜‰
2016 Ram 3500 Mega Cab Limited/2013 Ram 3500 SRW Cummins(sold)/2005 RAM 2500 Cummins/2011 Sandpiper 345 RET (sold) 2015 Sanibel 3601/2008 Nitro Z9 Mercury 250 PRO XS the best motor made.

Travlingman
Explorer II
Explorer II
Sounds like you are getting comfortable with it. Congrats.

Something I did for mine is to make a check list when we get ready to depart. I found as I got comfortable, I forgot stuff. My list starts in the front of the rig, bedroom, in the closet and goes back. I start with making sure antenna booster off, dresser drawers closed, lights off, then that the closet drawers are locked in place. Then AC is off and so on as I go around the bedroom until I get to door and close and latch it. I then do this for every section of the rig until I get to the very back. Didn't use the list a couple of trips ago, found I forgot to put TV retaining straps on when I got home.

Sounds like you have a pretty good dealer too.
2017 F-350 King Ranch DRW
2014 Landmark Savannah(sold)
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DutchmenSport
Explorer
Explorer
Update for anyone interested.

90 day inspection of the new 5er went well. I arrived at 8:45 am and left at 1:15 pm and brought the camper back home with me.

We all agreed these were the issues and will be fixed at a later date, once all the parts come in.

New front door will be replaced. It's dragging at the top. The service tech could not fix it correct.

New bathroom door and new bedroom door. Doors drag also and they decided to replace and get them aligned right. I was kind of surprised on that, although I do admit, they drug a little also.

City water hook-up connection leaks. They will replace the connection with a new one. They said the didn't have any in stock to replace it right then, but I think by now, the decided to do all the repairs at once. I don't know, still, it's getting fixed.

Broken pull down blind will get fixed also. They have to order to the part.

I lost one of the feet on the self-leveling jacks. It's being shipped to me, free.

We're getting an awning over the back door and the getting LED lights in the awning, same as the front door. Remember, this 5er model I have truly has a front and a back door. It has a door on both sides of the camper, street side and curb side. So, they did all the calculations and determined we can get the awning, it will be power, and it will have the LED lights. But, we're paying for that ourselves.

They also installed a big hand rail gripper thing that swings back and out of the way when traveling for the back door. It only had the small handle. They installed it today, complete installation $110.

We purchased 4 tire covers, I picked up a tube of Alpha self-leveling calking, and a collapsible plastic-rubber tub for the sink.

Over all, it was a good day. The service tech said it would probably be the 2nd week in January when we'd get the awning and all the parts. At that time, they'll also do all the "warranty" repairs, so they may end up keeping the camper a few days to get it all done. I'm OK with that since we're not camping or using it right now anyway.

On a side note, I found my wooden measuring rod for hitch height fell short in their parking lot as the parking lot was on a slight slope and the corner of the 5er was taller than in my drive way at home. I think I understand what everyone was saying now. So, I'm coming up with an alternative measuring stick, something that might remind you of an old fashioned slide rule. I had no problem hitching as they didn't level.

I don't understand way, but sometimes, after automatic leveling, when the jacks are retracted, the hitch height does not return to it's original position, and sometimes it does. I haven't figured out why yet, so, I'm ok fabricating a gigantic slide rule.

So, over all, it was a successful day. We're waiting on the service tech to call us back to let us know exactly what the new awning will cost now. But we're excited about it, and this is our Christmas present to each other this yea. We're anticipating $1500 - $1700 for labor, awning, lights, and running all the wire to make it electric.

Perhaps a photo of our driveway at home will help explain why we use the "back" door so much and want the awning. In most campgrounds it won't be practical to use the awning on the other side, but at home, it's the primary door. I can pull the trailer in forward, but like with my previous TT, I don't have a lot of room to navigate the truck. We originally parked all of our campers on the other side of the drive way, with door facing the house, and steps over the grass. The only problem then is driving over the power cord. So, doors on both sides of this camper are great!









And oh, one more thing: One of the first things I did after getting the new 5er and hitch installed in the bed of the truck, was to get one of these for the hitch. No need for grease. It seems to work very, very nice:

filrupmark
Explorer
Explorer
I added a brass snap hook then adjusted the length of my ebrake cable to just touch the ground for hitching height. Works great !
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Finally a smooth ride !!!

one_strange_tex
Explorer
Explorer
Pertaining to the comments about my use of WD-40 to lubricate my hitch, I probably should have originally stated that I have a SuperGlide hitch. Here is what is says in the owner's manual:

"The Plastic Wear Plates of the SuperGlideโ€™s Turntable Cam Arm Assembly were designed to glide along the surfaces without the need for heavy lubrication. To protect against rust and to enhance the ease of turning on the Way Tubes, a light oil (WD-40 or a 3-in-1 oil) should be applied to the Way Tubesโ€™ top and inward facing sides and between the front and rear openings in the Plastic Wear Plates positioned around the Turntable/Cam Arm Shaft. A light lubricant that is applied more frequently (each day of use) is preferred over the use of heavier lubricants. Since any applied lubricant is going to be โ€œwipedโ€ off by the sliding action of the hitch, a light lubricant applied more frequently will perform better (reduce the friction between the plastic and steel surfaces), and will be less messy, as well as attract less dust and dirt."

I know WD-40 is used for water displacement, but it is also a lubricant. While lubricating the hitch, I also spray the spring loaded jaw & trigger mechanism and associated parts, as well as the flat top of the hitch that the king pin rides up on. You do have to clean the hitch every now and then, but I do not detect an excessive accumulation of dirt & grime.
one_strange_texan
Currently between RV's
Former 5th wheel owner (Montana 3402RL)

laknox
Nomad
Nomad
I have to be careful with pinbox height or I'll catch the lube plate on the hitch and snap it off. BTDT a couple of time. :M Even with the 4-point and "memory", it's never quite right and I end up having to tweak the height just a bit. I do have the tilt spring from B&W on my Companion, but it doesn't work all that well. My solution is a rubber bungee cord hooked to the side plates and stretched up over the big bolt that tilts the head plate. Head's =always= tilted down with this method! :B

Lyle
2022 GMC Sierra 3500 HD Denali Crew Cab 4x4 Duramax
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rhagfo
Explorer
Explorer
DutchmenSport, if I may ask how tall are you? Have you considered full length running boards for your TV? Running boards were the first requirement by DW, I got a set of wheel to wheel and have easy access to the bed. I am 6' so if you are shorter I can see an issue.
Russ & Paula the Beagle Belle.
2016 Ram Laramie 3500 Aisin DRW 4X4 Long bed.
2005 Copper Canyon 293 FWSLS, 32' GVWR 12,360#

"Visit and Enjoy Oregon State Parks"

rhagfo
Explorer
Explorer
transamz9 wrote:
It seems lot of you guys overthink things. I just get it close then back up to the hitch. If it's not right I get out and push the up or down button till it is in the tight place then back under. Pretty simple.


X2!
I sight across the bottom of the pin, when it looks high enough to clear the 5er TG, I backup usually hit the hitch about 1.5" to 2" low and just ride up the ramp.
Russ & Paula the Beagle Belle.
2016 Ram Laramie 3500 Aisin DRW 4X4 Long bed.
2005 Copper Canyon 293 FWSLS, 32' GVWR 12,360#

"Visit and Enjoy Oregon State Parks"

RobWNY
Explorer
Explorer
WD-40 is a water displacement product. It's not a lubricant. That's what the "WD" stands for. Personally, I use White Lithium Grease from a spray can. A little spritz before each trip on the jaws and pivoting area and I'm good. Once a year grease through the Zerk fittings and it will be fine.
2020 Silverado 2500HD LT, CC, 4X4 6.6 Duramax
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I asked him to do one thing and he didn't do any of them.

ACZL
Explorer
Explorer
gbopp wrote:
one_strange_texan wrote:
Lube using the manufacturer's recommended lubricant. Mine is WD-40.

I've never owned a 5th wheel. The manufacturer really recommends WD 40 as a lubricant?
I use WD 40 for everything except lubrication, it seems to dry up quickly.


Not to mention that WD-40 attracts dust/dirt/grime. Why not just spray the the hitch at beginning of season w/ the grey graphite stuff? Have done it this way for several years w/o a prob and no dirt etc on pivot points.
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gbopp
Explorer
Explorer
one_strange_texan wrote:
Lube using the manufacturer's recommended lubricant. Mine is WD-40.

I've never owned a 5th wheel. The manufacturer really recommends WD 40 as a lubricant?
I use WD 40 for everything except lubrication, it seems to dry up quickly.

Lantley
Nomad
Nomad
transamz9 wrote:
It seems lot of you guys overthink things. I just get it close then back up to the hitch. If it's not right I get out and push the up or down button till it is in the tight place then back under. Pretty simple.

I get it your method works. But my auto level will automatically return to hitching height.
There are also techniques and gadgets that will eliminate the need to get out and check because the height is known to be correct!
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