cancel
Showing results for 
Search instead for 
Did you mean: 

Sealants

mikemc53
Explorer
Explorer
I know this is a subject that has been kicked around for decades but I am always looking for experienced voices to help out with things.

When sealing/caulking the RV I have found that Dicor (self-leveling) works very well on roofs but it does not seem to apply cleanly and/or neatly on any side parts of the RV. How do most folks work the transition - where a seam runs from the roof and then down the side of the unit? It would seem that if you started with dicor on the roof and then just kept sealing the same seam down the side, it would get runny and less appealing to the eye, probably due to the self-leveling qualities.

I bought my unit used and the previous owner had done a decent job sealing all the seams, though it doesn't appear to have been Dicor or any self-leveling compound. The roof seams are well-done, though drying out now, and the same sealant/caulk follows the seam down the side onto the body of the coach. It's a tan colored sealant and matches the body quite well but I am not sure what type it is and I can't get hold of the person to find out what they used.

What do most here use and is there a decent caulk that can be used on roofs and bodies of the coach?

Thanks gang.
2021 Gulf Stream Conquest 6250 (Class C)
6 REPLIES 6

ItsyRV
Explorer
Explorer
As mentioned Dicor lap sealant comes in a self leveling and a non sag version. You use the one designed for the application need. When picking a product, make sure you are picking the correct product for your application and not just a name. Names like 3M, DAP, GE, Gorilla, Sika, OSI, Henry's etc are just brand name. Those companies have a range of products; not all are appropriate for your specific needs. So, make sure you are looking first at the application and not just some brand name.
1994 Itasca SunDancer 21RB - Chevy G-30 chassis.

Dale_Traveling
Explorer II
Explorer II
For vertical surfaces I've had very good results from Pro Flex. Applies and smooths much the same as an RTV base sealant but without the down side of RTV.

I'm still trying to figure out the infatuation of RV owners with self leveling sealants. The intent of these products is to fill gaps in both depth and separation. Using the same on an overlapping seam or a butt joint was never the intended purpose of self leveling sealant. When a large portion of the product ends up inches away from the the area that needs to be seal what good does it do? You end up with an 1" or so over sealant left and right of the seam and 1/8" or less over top of the area to be sealed. Looks great being smoothed out but how long will that seal last? And what will happen when if fails?
2006 Hurricane 31D built on a 2006 Ford F53

grumpy3b
Explorer
Explorer
look at products used on Skyscraper buildings from a company called Sika. I use them on our rig and am. quite happy plus they just may be more durable. I only want to seal this beastie once.

garym114
Explorer
Explorer
Use Pro Flex on all but the roof. It does not run or crack, flexible and it is smoothed with a soapy finger, several colors.
Used it when I replaced the front and rear end cap molding.
https://www.geocelusa.com/product/pro-flex-rv-flexible-sealant/
2000 Sea Breeze F53 V10 - CR-V Toad
Some RV batteries live a long and useful life, some are murdered.
Get a Digital Multimeter and Learn How to Use It

gbopp
Explorer
Explorer
Use Eternabond n the roof wherever possible.

rrupert
Explorer
Explorer
You can get the non-self-leveling version of Dicor or Lexel. I used Lexel on vertical joints and worked well. It sticks very well. Available at hardware stores.
Rich and Joyce
2018 Jayco Jay Flight 21QB
2012 Ford F150 4X4 Supercrew EcoBoost
Reese Strait-Line Dual Cam Hitch

Amateur Radio K3EXU