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 > Wife making cookies...RV oven keeps going out...

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groundhogy

PA

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Posted: 12/20/18 05:38pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Well, I am still here..

Those are some very good tips and comments. Thank you.

We still have Christmas cookie production running.
She is using the knob to, i guess, bypass the thermostat or sensor/relay. She turns it to total broil and then turns it back to very low. This doesnt let the thermostat decide i guess.

For temperature monitoring, I have a fluke DVM that has a thermocouple input and tells temperature. This oven is like an Amana or Magic Chef or something, but the temperature is also WAY WAY off.

A lot of heat seems to escape from the unit. Maybe from the back. You can put your hand there and feel it. I was thinking it needs some fiberglass stuffed in there. Like maybe they forgot to insulate it.

trailerbikecamper

eastern Canada

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Posted: 12/20/18 05:49pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

groundhogy wrote:

Well, I am still here..

Those are some very good tips and comments. Thank you.

A lot of heat seems to escape from the unit. Maybe from the back. You can put your hand there and feel it. I was thinking it needs some fiberglass stuffed in there. Like maybe they forgot to insulate it.


I wouldn't use fiberglass to insulate. Try to to find a mineral wool. It has much higher heat resistance. Some of it is up around the 1200F area for resistance to heat/flame. You won't need much, RV ovens aren't very big.


Dan

pianotuna

Regina, SK, Canada

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Posted: 12/20/18 05:50pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Can anyone tell me WHY they put the pilot light at the back of the oven so we have to get down on our hands and knees to ignite it?

I solved the issue by going electric and never using the propane oven.


Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp hours of AGM in two battery banks 12 volt batteries, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

groundhogy

PA

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Posted: 12/20/18 06:35pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

So, to keep this oven at say 350 deg F, you have to turn the knob to just under broil.

groundhogy

PA

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Posted: 12/20/18 06:35pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I wonder if the thermostat has a temperature adjustment screw or something?

ktmrfs

Portland, Oregon

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Posted: 12/20/18 06:52pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

pianotuna wrote:

Can anyone tell me WHY they put the pilot light at the back of the oven so we have to get down on our hands and knees to ignite it?

I solved the issue by going electric and never using the propane oven.


DW had the same comment...... So..... I went to home depot and got a 4 spark ignitor for a BBQ, one of the ignitors had high temp insulation for use inside the BBQ.... worked great on the cooktop and oven, and it's powered by AA battery. Works great, especially the oven pilot light,


2011 Keystone Outback 295RE
2004 14' bikehauler with full living quarters
2015.5 Denali 4x4 CC/SB Duramax/Allison
2004.5 Silverado 4x4 CC/SB Duramax/Allison passed on to our Son!


ktmrfs

Portland, Oregon

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Posted: 12/20/18 06:54pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

groundhogy wrote:

Well, I am still here..

Those are some very good tips and comments. Thank you.

We still have Christmas cookie production running.
She is using the knob to, i guess, bypass the thermostat or sensor/relay. She turns it to total broil and then turns it back to very low. This doesnt let the thermostat decide i guess.

For temperature monitoring, I have a fluke DVM that has a thermocouple input and tells temperature. This oven is like an Amana or Magic Chef or something, but the temperature is also WAY WAY off.

A lot of heat seems to escape from the unit. Maybe from the back. You can put your hand there and feel it. I was thinking it needs some fiberglass stuffed in there. Like maybe they forgot to insulate it.


typical temp accuracy. Mine and many others tend to run about 50F below the dial temp.

garyemunson

Reno, Nevada

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Posted: 12/21/18 03:48am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

X2 on the dirty pilot light orifice. Can be carboned up making the pilot flame smaller. If the flame gets too small, the change in draft when the main flame goes out (or opening the door to check progress while the main burner is in it's off state) can be enough to blow out the pilot (listen close and you'll hear a "woomph" or "pop" both when the main burner comes on or off). A starting point would be to pull the pilot assembly out and eyeball it closely. Don't try to make it bigger, just be sure it is clean. Also, like mentioned above, be sure the thermocouple is centered in the pilot flame. It has to be hot enough to expand the internal fluid so it can push the pin out that holds the pilot valve open. There is the possibility of the internal filter in the gas control valve has gotten stopped up but those are pretty big compared to the amount of gas that passes through them so that's not likely. I imagine they do get replaced but I've never encountered that, even on 30 year old stuff.

garyemunson

Reno, Nevada

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Posted: 12/21/18 03:51am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

That heat you feel escaping is a result of double wall construction that lets air circulate to keep the outer shell from getting too hot and starting a fire inside the cabinet oven recess. I would not try to restrict hat airflow at all.

wa8yxm

Wherever I happen to park

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Posted: 12/21/18 07:07am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

groundhogy wrote:

I wonder if the thermostat has a temperature adjustment screw or something?


Per Atwood.. NO


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Kenwood TS-2000 housed in a 2005 Damon Intruder 377


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