Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Can I use a WDH on a DP
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 > Can I use a WDH on a DP

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DrewE

Vermont

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Posted: 01/15/19 08:25am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

discovery4us wrote:

Never used a WDH on the MH and have never seen one used on a MH with air bags. It would seem to me that any adjustment made to the WDH would be negated by the air system.

I typically don't hook up my cargo trailer with the MH running because it is too loud but the few times I have as soon as the tongue weight of the trailer is felt the air system pumps back up to level. Wouldn't this be the same effect of the WDH? As the air levels out the MH and trailer it is spreading some of the tongue weight to the front of the MH and some to the trailer axles. Being the center pivot point as you raise or lower the air suspension it should push some of the weight in either direction.

I have no experience with a WDH as I have always added air bags or upgraded springs to level trucks and trailers so I am probable missing something but I would think that you either need the air suspension or the WDH but not both.


Adjusting the leveling doesn't significantly change the axle loading, it just makes things level. The only weight shifting would be due to the center of gravity of the motorhome being above the axis around which it rotates slightly when being leveled, and so move a teeny tiny bit towards one end or the other. It's utterly negligible, perhaps even to the point of being nearly impossible to measure with ordinary vehicle scales. You would get far greater weight transfer by having a passenger move from the rear to the front of the motorhome.

A weight distributing hitch simply applies a torque to the hitch point, which has the effect of increasing the force (weight) on the trailer axle and the front axle of the vehicle, and reducing the force on the tow vehicle rear axle. Due to the lever arm lengths involved in a motorhome vs. a pickup or SUV, the amount of weight transfer in the motorhome would be comparatively smaller (I think--I haven't actually sketched out and solved a free-body diagram).





wildmanbaker

Kennewick, Washington

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Posted: 01/15/19 08:36am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

D J, yes and no. BJs example is good for a pickup and trailer, but you are going to add some weight to the rear, front and trailer axels. With a MH, the spring bars would probably have to be a lot bigger than the heaviest ones available now. and who and how you would flip them up would be interesting.


Wildmanbaker


Smitty77

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Posted: 01/23/19 11:53am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

hotjag1 wrote:

Lancslad wrote:

Have you tried moving the trailer contents around to reduce the tongue weight?


The only two heavy items in the trailer are a side x side utv and a small suv(Suzuki grand Vitara).

With the Suzuki facing forward I have a tongue weight of close to 1500lbs. Iif I back it in so that the engine is behind the trailer axles, it puts the tongue weight at 1200 lbs. Too much weight unless I find out that my hitch is rated for more than the 1000lbs that I think it is.


I'd keep doing what your doing, and ensure the hitch is up to snuff to handle the tongue weight. That being said, I know a gent that had a similar problem with is two axle enclosed trailer. He was not over the weight of the trailer itself, and was about 3K under his DP's hitch 10K capacity. But, his tongue weight was high. He tried, as you did, to balance the load better with more over the twin axles. helped some, but not enough to get him comfortable. He had his DP looked at from a well known trailer hitch shop in the area, and they suggested he cold improve his tongue weight by some rather dramatic cutting and welding to beef up where his hitch attaches to the frame. (Probably the H pattern mentioned earlier(?) - but never got into the specifics with him on what was involved.) But the shop said they could for a fraction of the cost add some weight to the back of his includes trailer rails, to pendulum wise get the tongue weight back within capacity. He elected to go that route, as he was using the trailer to run back and forth to the desert from the San Diego area.

So if you don't mind the extra weight being towed, which for your usage is always vs weekend warrior usage.... Possibly consider adding more weight to the trailer rear end. (They welded a new bar between the rear frame, with some heavy pieces of solid metal added the new cross member to get the weight they wanted. All galvanized and properly painted - clean job.)

Best of luck to you. And glad to see you being proactive on this. Safety is not an accident[emoticon]!
Smitty

majordad

carson city, nv

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Posted: 08/04/19 11:59pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

My DP says not to use we’d bars with air ride

oldave

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Posted: 08/05/19 06:57pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The simple cheap answer is to get 2 or 3 bags of sand .
Put them in the in the rear of the trailer .

I don't think a WDH will confuse our air ride height at all
After the WDH has distriduted some weight mostly to the trailer
the air ride will adjust as necessaary .

My ride height system takes over after I start the engine .
How will it matter if the coach is already level ?

Now if you decide to dump the air or level the coach when you
park that may put a lot of stress on things .

hotjag1

Lake Chelan, Wa/Lake Havasu, Az.

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Posted: 08/05/19 10:27pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

oldave wrote:

The simple cheap answer is to get 2 or 3 bags of sand .
Put them in the in the rear of the trailer .

I don't think a WDH will confuse our air ride height at all
After the WDH has distriduted some weight mostly to the trailer
the air ride will adjust as necessaary .

My ride height system takes over after I start the engine .
How will it matter if the coach is already level ?

Now if you decide to dump the air or level the coach when you
park that may put a lot of stress on things .


I was surprised to see this topic appear again, but since you suggested sand bags, I did try a similar approach. I had a Class 3 receiver hitch welded onto the frame rails of the trailer. I then loaded a 270lb scooter onto a rack mounted in the new hitch, which made for a combined weight of about 300lbs. According to my tongue scale, adding 300lbs to the rear of the trailer only reduced tongue weight about 80lbs. It looks like I would need a lot of sandbags...


hotjag1
2003 40' Allegro Bus, 3 slides, 400hp 8.9 liter ISL Cummins

2000 24' Dynamax Isata


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