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Opinions - Morryde x-factor cross brace

Hammerboy
Explorer
Explorer
My next project on our 5er this spring is to install the Morryde upgraded wet bolts and shackles. While I am at it I am thinking of installing the Morryde x-factor cross brace at least on the center hanger. (mostly so I can sleep better at night :))

So anyway here is some basic info on our rig.

- 4" long spring hangers - not as long as some out there.
- Dexter EZ flex equalizer
- 10" cross members/beams between the 10" main I beams withing 8" of the center and rear spring hangers and within 18" of the front hangers.
- Dry wieght of #9100 and maybe 10K loaded (need to cat scale it yet)
- Total length of 5er aprox. 32' pin to bumper.
- Lippert frame :E

So, I am asking for the wiser ones than me for your opinion. Don't worry about putting them on, just the center one is fine, or do all three?

Thanks everybody

Dan
2019 Chevy crew LTZ 2500 HD Duramax
2017 Wildcat 29rlx fifth wheel
10 REPLIES 10

JBarca
Nomad II
Nomad II
For some reason, all the pics are now showing on my older post.

See here for more

TT Spring Hanger Stiffening (Long, lots of pics)
2005 Ford F350 Super Duty, 4x4; 6.8L V10 with 4.10 RA, 21,000 GCWR, 11,000 GVWR, upgraded 2 1/2" Towbeast Receiver. Hitched with a 1,700# Reese HP WD, HP Dual Cam to a 2004 Sunline Solaris T310R travel trailer.

JBarca
Nomad II
Nomad II
I may be a little late to the party, but I'll add my comments.

If there is a chance you can post pictures of your front, rear axle and center axle hangers, we can see if you have the "issue".

So what is the "issue"?

Back in the early year 2,000's, campers started getting more I beam style frames across the industry. As time went on, cracks started forming in the web of the I beam just above the hangers from the hangers flexing in turns. The longer the hangers, the worse this was. The more miles towed, the worse it was.

Soon a pattern to the cracks was evident. There was lack of rigid support between lower flange of the I beam and the web. The lower flange would flex and over time crack the web.

These I shape manufactured housing beams used for campers have very weak lower flanges. Some RV manufacturers addressed the problem by adding support to the lower flange. This halted the web flexing and then no more cracks.

This made it to be a big enough problem that there is even a Lippert how to fix it sheet on the NTHSA website. Yet, we still have campers being built today with the same issue. No lower flange support on long hanger suspension.

I learned about this in the later 2,000's and I made my own cross member supports to go between all 3 hanger sets. Guys who go off road, like toy haulers knew of the issue as their off road travel to camp aggravated the problem worse then the asphalt road folks. The toy haulers guys where welding in channel iron stiffeners on brand new campers to ward off the issue.

Picking up from the toy hauler group, I reinforced the hanger itself and the frame. My camper, while a travel trailer in place of a 5'er, has the heavier 10" I shape frame with 5" long hangers and loaded weighs just under 10,000# scaled. My issue was hanger bending when turning and staying bent. I never cracked the frame as the reinforcing tubes and the added flange support stopped it.

I even have a picture filled post here on RV.net on this, but for some reason all the pictures are not viewing on that older thread.

Bottom line: If you plan to keep your camper a good while, adding hanger reinforcement at all 3 locations is a worthwhile upgrade.

Since I cannot see yours, I do not know what you have.

Hope this helps

John

PS. Here a couple of the pics linked in. If you are interested in more, let me know









2005 Ford F350 Super Duty, 4x4; 6.8L V10 with 4.10 RA, 21,000 GCWR, 11,000 GVWR, upgraded 2 1/2" Towbeast Receiver. Hitched with a 1,700# Reese HP WD, HP Dual Cam to a 2004 Sunline Solaris T310R travel trailer.

Slowmover
Explorer
Explorer
buc1980 wrote:
For the people who want to install the Mor/ryde 4000 I want to tell them to save the money and install the Mor/ryde IS.I install the 4000 hoping that will fix the suspension, axle problem I was wrong and finally I go to Indiana to fix the problem for sure.What a improvement in the ride you will not be sorry.


This is the correct route.
1990 35' SILVER STREAK Sterling, 9k GVWR
2004 DODGE RAM 2WD 305/555 ISB, QC SRW LB NV-5600, 9k GVWR
Hensley Arrow; 11-cpm solo, 17-cpm towing fuel cost

deltabravo
Nomad
Nomad
Check this video on the SRE/4000 system. They also boxed in the spring hangers.

MORryde SRE 4000
2009 Silverado 3500HD Dually, D/A, CCLB 4x4 (bought new 8/30/09)
2018 Arctic Fox 992 with an Onan 2500i "quiet" model generator

buc1980
Explorer
Explorer
For the people who want to install the Mor/ryde 4000 I want to tell them to save the money and install the Mor/ryde IS.I install the 4000 hoping that will fix the suspension, axle problem I was wrong and finally I go to Indiana to fix the problem for sure.What a improvement in the ride you will not be sorry.
2017 Ford F350 DRW,2005 Kountry Star 35ft,16750 lb weight on SAILUN tire,6 points LIPPERD Level-up.New Mor/ryde IS suspension install.Full body paint 2022.RV flex roof 2023

SoundGuy
Explorer
Explorer
Hammerboy wrote:
My next project on our 5er this spring is to install the Morryde upgraded wet bolts and shackles. While I am at it I am thinking of installing the Morryde x-factor cross brace at least on the center hanger. (mostly so I can sleep better at night :))

So, I am asking for the wiser ones than me for your opinion. Don't worry about putting them on, just the center one is fine, or do all three?


JMO but I'd do all 3. During a tire change my dealer's service managed discovered the trailer's main frame was starting to crack on both sides, just aft of the rear tire. :E After arguing for some time with Coachmen and Lippert over who would cover the cost of repair the dealer welded in reinforcing plates around the affected areas AND installed 3 cross member supports. I don't know whether these were from a Morryde kit or pieces the welder created himself but they certainly did strengthen overall frame rigidity and eliminated any further concern that the frame might rack in any way in the future. :B
2012 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab
2014 Coachmen Freedom Express 192RBS
2003 Fleetwood Yuma * 2008 K-Z Spree 240BH-LX
2007 TrailCruiser C21RBH * 2000 Fleetwood Santa Fe
1998 Jayco 10UD * 1969 Coleman CT380

Lynnmor
Explorer
Explorer
The cross bracing is not about what you feel, it is to help prevent the racking of the frame. As you round a curve the entire weight, much of it very high, is pushing against the spring hangers flexing the frame and possibly causing weld and material cracks. The cross bracing will reduce that damage considerably. I had failures where the few pathetic frame cross members were punching thru the main rails.

RollandB
Explorer
Explorer
Last summer I installed the SRE4000 and the one X-Factor cross brace that comes with it in the center. I really canโ€™t tell if the X-Factor adds much at all. In theory it canโ€™t hurt. I might be tempted in your situation to do the center one and see what you feel if the two additional ones are needed.
2013 Yukon

2021 Coachmen Spirit 1943RB

2naEagle
Explorer
Explorer
Just my opinion.
If you are going to keep this trailer for a long time or travel a lot of miles go all in.

Heavy duty shackles and wet bolts.
Sre4000 (it comes with a x factor)
X factor on front and back.

At a minimum I would do heavy duty shackles and wet bolts and 3 x factors
2020 F350 Limited CCSB SRW
2017 North Point 315RLTS
2021 Jayco Greyhawk 29MV

JKJavelin
Explorer III
Explorer III
Just an FYI: IF you would decide to also add the SRE-4000 equalizer, Morryde will void the warranty on it if you DO NOT add the X-Factor to the center hanger. So I guess the center hanger is the weakest link.
JK
2018 Ram 3500 Laramie Cummins 6.7
2016 Open Range RF316RLS
Titan Disc Brakes
Trailair pinbox
Morryde AllTrek 4000 w/ wetbolt kit
Demco Autoslide
570 watts of Solar

2017-2022 555 Nights
2023- 106 Nights