New Class A Buyer with Questions

[jaycocamper6230]

We have a deal pending on a 2006 Damon 353 Challenger with V10. Any advice to look for in this model? Anyone buy tires online or buy local? We have a Jeep Wrangler Unlimited we may decide to pull behind this rig. Good idea? Will RV handle it? Research says only way to pull this Jeep is all 4 wheels on the ground. This true?

[jaycocamper6230]

way2roll wrote:

jaycocamper62301 wrote:
Ok been researching for supplemental braking for a Jeep Wrangler. What is the best system? I don't want a $1000 system that's gonna drag my Jeep around with the brakes on. Does everyone even use supplemental braking?

See my note above. ready Brute Elite tow bars have a supplemental brake included.

i totally missed that. I like that idea better than a box flopping around on the floorboard

[way2roll]

jaycocamper62301 wrote:
Ok been researching for supplemental braking for a Jeep Wrangler. What is the best system? I don't want a $1000 system that's gonna drag my Jeep around with the brakes on. Does everyone even use supplemental braking?

See my note above. ready Brute Elite tow bars have a supplemental brake included.

[jaycocamper6230]

Ok been researching for supplemental braking for a Jeep Wrangler. What is the best system? I don't want a $1000 system that's gonna drag my Jeep around with the brakes on. Does everyone even use supplemental braking?

[way2roll]

I went with the ready brute elite tow bars. There is a mechanical surge brake that is super easy to hook up, just clip one cable, no crawling under the seat installing a system wedged, nothing to remove, no air or electronics to fail, it's just mechanically cable actuated. Super easy, cheap and effective.

RB

[John_Wayne]

For brake assist I'd look at the SMI stay and play Duo . That's what I'm using and I'am happy with it. Also M&G had it on my 4Runner but you have a gas unit with out air brakes so you would need the compressor unit also that's what I had to do. Went with the SMI when I got my Liberty because I was going to have to move to many things to install another M&G unit.

[way2roll]

jaycocamper62301 wrote:
I do know it has a 5000lb hitch and our Jeep weighs 4400 lbs. I don't want a heavy aftermarket front bumper for towing and besides we like the bumper we have. Any recommendations on the best way to brake assist the Jeep?

Check out base plates from Blue OX and Road master. I don't think they require a new bumper. I don't own a Jeep but I have read they are one of the easiest to mount base plates. I know on our CRV it didn't require a special bumper.

[jaycocamper6230]

way2roll wrote:

fred42 wrote:
This may be useful:

https://library.rvusa.com/brochure/2006_challenger.pdf

Based on the specs for the 353, the weight (if this is the F53) from factory is 17,164, and GCWR is 26,000. That's a net of almost 9,000 lbs. IF the weight is accurate (and they aren't always) there would be plenty of capacity. Add fuel, food, water, people etc, and you would still be well within the max 5,000 lbs the hitch is rated for. If you add all the weight you would add (fuel, food, people, water, and the jeep) and it's under 9,000 lbs, you would be ok provided the jeep doesn't weigh more than the hitch rating of 5,000.

Yes it's a F53 chassis and thanks

[jaycocamper6230]

I do know it has a 5000lb hitch and our Jeep weighs 4400 lbs. I don't want a heavy aftermarket front bumper for towing and besides we like the bumper we have. Any recommendations on the best way to brake assist the Jeep?

[way2roll]

fred42 wrote:
This may be useful:

https://library.rvusa.com/brochure/2006_challenger.pdf

Based on the specs for the 353, the weight (if this is the F53) from factory is 17,164, and GCWR is 26,000. That's a net of almost 9,000 lbs. IF the weight is accurate (and they aren't always) there would be plenty of capacity. Add fuel, food, water, people etc, and you would still be well within the max 5,000 lbs the hitch is rated for. If you add all the weight you would add (fuel, food, people, water, and the jeep) and it's under 9,000 lbs, you would be ok provided the jeep doesn't weigh more than the hitch rating of 5,000.

[fred42]

This may be useful:

https://library.rvusa.com/brochure/2006_challenger.pdf

[way2roll]

The only way to know if the rig can handle towing the Jeep is to load the motorhome for travel, water, food, fuel, people etc, and weigh it and compare that to the total capacity. I am guessing this unit has a 5k# hitch rating but that is the max you can tow. You need to do the math. You can only tow the LESSER of the hitch rating or the GCWR minus the actual weight of the RV (loaded for travel). This will tell you how much is left to tow. If this number is less than the jeep than you will be overweight. You'd be surprised how many class A's are out there with a 5 or 10k# hitch that only have a few thousand pounds of capacity left. But unless you do the math it's a guess.

[scbwr]

Unless you are very knowledgeable about motor homes, have an independent pro do an inspection of the motor home. Make sure you have carefully looked over every square inch using a flashlight, looking for any signs of water leaks. Check every appliance, electrical outlet, faucet....everything. Check slide outs for proper operation and that the weather seals are in good shape and not allowing water to penetrate. Run the generator with a load, such as the ac units. Check that the water heater operates on both propane and 120 volts (if applicable).

Take it for a really good test drive to see how it handles. Know what stabilizers, after market springs (Summo or others), replacement shocks or other mods such as the "cheap handling fix" have been done.

Couple of opinions: If the MH doesn't have two air conditioners, don't buy it if you plan on taking it to or using in hot temps. Know the size of the generator and determine if it will meet your needs. We were lucky to find our MH with the 7K generator which enables us to power up both ac units when needed.
If the rig needs new carpeting, be aware of the cost of replacing it unless you can do the work. We were originally looking for an older MH but after looking at quite a few of them, we decided to spend a bit more for something newer that wouldn't need a lot of work.

I think your better off to buy tires from a dealer that can install them and provide any service or adjustments as needed. And, get a front end alignment.

Tow 4 down if possible. It's a little pricey, but but buying a dolly isn't cheap either. By towing 4 down, if you have to disconnect the car for some reason, it's not that hard to do and you're not trying to move the car and a dolly. I'm thinking of that rare situation where you've made a mistake and can't go forward without having a problem due to the car in tow i.e. an oops moment at the gas pumps.

Good luck, and just keep in mind that there are a lot of gas motor homes available. In our search, we decided that if possible, we wanted to find a Newmar, Tiffen, Winnebago/Itasca or pre 2008 Holiday Rambler based upon their reputation for quality. But, that's a personal preference and we very well could have purchased something else if it was in excellent shape and met other criteria.

[naturist]

There is also the option of putting the Jeep on a trailer, but that is even more expensive and troublesome than a dolly, which you might not be able to use at all due to 4x4. If it is possible to tow 4-down, that’s generally the preferred mode.

Some 4x4 systems can be towed 4 down, some require a trailer, and some allow a dolly, You know that yours “can only be towed 4 down.” Embrace that.

[Trackrig]

I have a Jeep and I don't know why you couldn't put it on a dolly, but why would you want to? It's much easier and quicker to hook up the Jeep towbar to the MH than put it on a dolly. Then you also don't have the dolly in the way at the camp ground or at home.

And yes, the MH should be able to handle the Jeep.

Bill