Best approach for more LP into our RV...?

[akaPedro]

This is not something I will do on my own...I will hire a licensed contractor.

Our motor home is in a shed about 60 feet from our house/500 gallon LP tank. We don't use this tank as it only hooks up to our pool heater.
Motor home has a 24 gallon tank.

In the event of a serious, long term, hacked power grid outage, we would like to move into the m/h. 24 gallon tank won't last but a month or so in the winter. I will assume no electricity means no propane refill at a gas station or elsewhere.

We have a gasoline generator and 2000w inverter/charger. I would like to a)...buy two $500.00 LP tanks, hook together outside the RV shed and pipe inside. Or b)...hook into our 500 gallon tank, trench over to the RV shed and pipe inside.

As I understand, it is not possible to fill our 24 gallon tank from our 500 gallon tank...and so it will be hooked up some way directly into the RV stove, furnace lines.

Sound reasonable...any better ideas ?

[down_home]

I think I see where you are going on this. A larger tank. heck with the manufacturer and see if they offered a larger tank on that chassis.
Tanks weight quite a bit full and it could change balance left to right.
Ours is 36 gallon maybe larger, I don't remember exactly right now.
Your compartment might handle the size but if what it is mounted like Winnebago of a few years back a piece of plywood hanging in the open behind the compartment door, You will need to find a good RV tech to engineer good solid mount. I don't know about carrying a full and very heavy separate tank in a compartment rolling around, to be connected by hose when you stop.

[johntank]

akaPedro wrote:
johntank: Sorry to relate....I have asked our propane supplier, who owns our tank...about some help. They declined...liability concerns.

Sorry to hear that they would not help with it.

[D_E_Bishop]

On first glance this might sound out of place here but in CA we have a private, non-profit organization called, California Real Estate Inspection Association , or CREIA.

The purpose is to set membership standards very high in the knowledge of all parts of building constructions. All new members have a Mentor who is extremely knowledgeable of building codes. If an inspector has a question he can call his mentor and get building and safety requirements. If there is such an organization in your area it would be a great place to a a very limited number of questions.

I personally don't think it is a big deal to do what you want to do, however, it isn't safe as you put it to us. For about $300 you can install a homemade Genturi type exhaust vent and a high volume low pressure exhaust system(a big ole fan in the roof, with a wet weather cover), that and leaving the door open will certainly make it safe.

Good luck with the project.

[time2roll]

Could be no one will touch directly feeding an RV. Especially in a building... even if full of holes.

Maybe they could set you up to refill some 20 or 30 pound cylinders.

Possibly set up a small propane generator to run your house in a limited manor.

[akaPedro]

johntank: Sorry to relate....I have asked our propane supplier, who owns our tank...about some help. They declined...liability concerns.

[ol_Bombero-JC]

Dutch_12078 wrote:

Bobbo wrote:
1. CO (not CO2) is heavier than air so vents near the roof won't help. You need vents at floor level.

Myth

Carbon monoxide is heavier than air, so CO detectors should not be placed on the ceiling or high on the wall.

Fact

CO is slightly lighter than air. However, studies have shown no significant difference in measurements based on what height CO detectors are mounted. Different manufacturers recommend different mounting locations, and you should always follow the manufacturers’ recommendation.

CO has a molar mass of 28.0, and air has an average molar mass of 28.8. The difference is so slight that CO is found to evenly distribute itself indoors. It is worth mentioning that CO indoors is usually generated from incomplete combustion (heat source) and therefore traveling in a warm air stream. Warm air is more buoyant and does rise. Coupling this fact with the knowledge that CO is lighter than air…

Carbon Monoxide Facts and Myths

Saw Bobbo's - Boo-boo and was calling "foul"!!..:(

Thank you Dutch for the CO clarification!

Apparently folks should (also) be reminded that *Propane* is *heavier* than air. It will "pool" like water - and "flow" to low spots - whether inside or outside. Source of ignition = KaBOOM - or serious flash fire outside.

Firefighter for 30 years. Been "there" for both - neither had happy ending/s...:(

~

[Lakeland_Bob]

Why couldn't you use the BBQ quick disconnect that is on your trailer. It's temporary isn't it? Just shut off the 24 gal. tanks at the regulator. The 500 gal tank already has a regulator to reduce the pressure.

[Dutch_12078]

Bobbo wrote:
1. CO (not CO2) is heavier than air so vents near the roof won't help. You need vents at floor level.

Myth

Carbon monoxide is heavier than air, so CO detectors should not be placed on the ceiling or high on the wall.

Fact

CO is slightly lighter than air. However, studies have shown no significant difference in measurements based on what height CO detectors are mounted. Different manufacturers recommend different mounting locations, and you should always follow the manufacturers’ recommendation.

CO has a molar mass of 28.0, and air has an average molar mass of 28.8. The difference is so slight that CO is found to evenly distribute itself indoors. It is worth mentioning that CO indoors is usually generated from incomplete combustion (heat source) and therefore traveling in a warm air stream. Warm air is more buoyant and does rise. Coupling this fact with the knowledge that CO is lighter than air…

Carbon Monoxide Facts and Myths

[johntank]

TenOC wrote:
Your propane supply company should be able to do the work for you. I would connect to the 500 gal tank unless the length of the hose offsets the cost of the tanks you are talking about purchasing.

IMO
This is the best answer so far. Your LP gas supply dealer would not only be able to run a line to your RV shed and help with connecting said line to MH, but it would be done following all local & state codes.

[akaPedro]

Hi Bobbo and yes, it is CO......Actually the whole shed is vented as the corrugate metal panels bolt into round vertical poles and there are gaps everywhere.

Oddly, the CO detector inside the RV is at eye level. I do have a battery powered CO detector that is more sensitive to CO levels and the directions say to keep it about 3 feet off the ground.

Thanks for your post

[Bobbo]

1. CO (not CO2) is heavier than air so vents near the roof won't help. You need vents at floor level.

2. You remove the regulator from the 24 gallon tank, attach the extend-a-stay to the tank, then attach the regulator to the extend-a-stay. Under normal conditions, you pull propane from the 24 gallon tank through the extend-a-stay to the regulator. When you attach an external tank, you pull propane from the external tank through the extend-a-stay to the regulator. The extend-a-stay is, itself, a "T" with a shut-off valve to keep propane from the 24 gallon tank from exiting the "T."

[akaPedro]

Thanks for your replies. RV shed is metal and has many vents in the wall near the ceiling. Can always leave the 12 foot door up. I have run the furnace for a few hours, off and on, and CO2 detector did not act us. When I run the generator, I have a ABS pipe going from the exhaust to outside the shed.

I went to the Marshall extend-a-stay site but for the life of me I cannot figure out, exactly, how to get from our 500 gallon tank to inside our RV. Does it connect to our 24 gallon tank...or is there a tee or something to by-pass the tank and go directly into the coach for the stove, fridge water heater and furnace ?

[Bobbo]

JaxDad wrote:
you can’t run things like your furnace inside an enclosed building unless you leave all the doors wide open.

Excellent point, that I had completely missed. Carbon Monoxide poisoning is NOT your friend.

[JaxDad]

If it’s only for a ‘what if’ type situation put the ‘Extenda-Stay’ on the M/H and a quick disconnect on the tank then buy a line long enough to reach that will just lay on the ground if & when needed.

Be aware though the 60’ you mention is likely moot since you can’t run things like your furnace inside an enclosed building unless you leave all the doors wide open.