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What's the common receptacle used for 240v Ranges

Ron3rd
Explorer
Explorer
Not an RV question but my daughter is looking to replace her 240v electric stove/oven. I have not had an electric range in over 30 years.

She said the receptacle in the wall now is for 3 prongs. I believe some homes had 4 prong receptacles at one time, correct?

The only reason I'm asking is she's looking at new electric stoves and I do not know if all the newer stoves are all coming with a 3 prong or 4 prong plug. What's common today?
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26 REPLIES 26

Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Explorer III
Ron3rd wrote:
OP here; turns out she has the 4 prong receptacle so she's got the updated standard. Thanks for all the info


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Ron3rd
Explorer
Explorer
OP here; turns out she has the 4 prong receptacle so she's got the updated standard. Thanks for all the info
2016 6.7 CTD 2500 BIG HORN MEGA CAB
2013 Forest River 3001W Windjammer
Equilizer Hitch
Honda EU2000

"I have this plan to live forever; so far my plan is working"

sammytoo
Explorer
Explorer
Wow !! I think she should move to a different house and get a gas stove.

Old-Biscuit
Explorer II
Explorer II
3 prong cord......cause that is what the daughters house has!

Simple....
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Gdetrailer
Explorer III
Explorer III
toedtoes wrote:
But, a brand new stove itself has the option of what plug to put on it. If the 3-prong plug was not legal, then the stores would only sell the 4-prong plug with the stove.

This isn't going out to make your own repairs against code, this is about buying a new appliance and having it installed - and that installation offers the choice of plugs. That is a big sign that 3-prong plugs are allowed for electric stoves IF installed correctly.

Prior to 1996, only mobile homes required 4-prong plugs. The code revision changed that so ALL newly built homes require 4-prong plugs. It did NOT change the rule for older homes. So, if all you are doing is buying and plugging in a new stove, you can continue to use the 3-prong plug. IF you update the wiring, you are required to change to the 4-prong plug.


Correct!

It is called "GRANDFATHERING".

As long as the home, building, apartment was built to pass the wiring rules at the time it was built AND you have not messed with the EXISTING WIRING/OUTLETS or opened walls it IS GRANDFATHERED AND LEGAL, LEGIT, OK.

ANYONE who says so otherwise is wrong.

I got burnt on that when I was in process of purchasing my house nearly 30 yrs ago. The supposed electrician that was hired by the Realtor to do the home inspection SCAMMED me for $800 in wiring "rework" by installing GFICs all through the 1st floor, ignored the basement for GFICs even thought there was outlets there..

One day I was mentioning this to a Coworker who was the ELECTRICAL MAINTENANCE guy for the entire warehouse and office building we worked in..

He was shocked and specifically told me that there is nowhere in any of the NEC rules that require existing wiring or outlets needing to be changed or updated PROVIDED you do not open walls (like a kitchen remodel) or add to the existing circuits in that area of the building..

The NEWER rules apply once you start adding to or modifying the EXISTING circuits.

Folks, get a grip, even KNOB AND TUBE is STILL GRANDFATHERED provided you do not add to or modify that circuit..

The way a lot of the responses lean to changing to 4 wire is just plain stupid, it can cost someone hundreds if not several thousand Dollars to make that change and if in an apartment building may not be even feasible without demolishing the entire building..

NEC rules take that into account and ALLOW for the grandfathering as long as the EXISTING wiring was installed to the rules at that time and are not currently a hazard.

On edit..

Also forgot to add that after I bought my home, I fully remodeld and rewire it, upgrading from 1940s 50A fuse box to a 200A Breaker panel to not only meet but exceed min NEC requirements at that time. I even went way above and ran 12Ga 20 Amp circuits for not only the outlets but the lighting.. And YES at that time electric drier got a 3 prong outlet which WAS THE STANDARDS AT THAT TIME.

ALL of my rewiring FULLY PASSED my local Electrical Inspector for the POCO.

After that, fully rewired my MILs home, then fully wired my BILs home he was building a few yrs later.. His home since it was being built AFTER the NEC change REQUIRED the 4 prong outlet for electric stoves and required 4 wire for even the Hot water tank..

toedtoes
Explorer II
Explorer II
But, a brand new stove itself has the option of what plug to put on it. If the 3-prong plug was not legal, then the stores would only sell the 4-prong plug with the stove.

This isn't going out to make your own repairs against code, this is about buying a new appliance and having it installed - and that installation offers the choice of plugs. That is a big sign that 3-prong plugs are allowed for electric stoves IF installed correctly.

Prior to 1996, only mobile homes required 4-prong plugs. The code revision changed that so ALL newly built homes require 4-prong plugs. It did NOT change the rule for older homes. So, if all you are doing is buying and plugging in a new stove, you can continue to use the 3-prong plug. IF you update the wiring, you are required to change to the 4-prong plug.
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ScottG
Nomad
Nomad
toedtoes wrote:
Easy way to know if it is against code: If it were against code, then you wouldn't have the option to buy the 3-prong cord. You'd have the buy the 4-prong cord and re-wire to fit it.


That's not a good indicator. There are all kinds of electrical and plumbing parts you can buy that are not to code.

Ron3rd
Explorer
Explorer
Dave H M wrote:
So now it is clear as a bell. :h

In my house i just wire new appliances in like the old one coming out.

Having to buy a new cord and rewire is BS to me. I have a three wire on my drier and stove.

Delivery guys have tunnel vision and probably for a good reason.

Can't you just tool over there and hook it up for her and shove it back in the space?


Thanks for all the info. No, I can't go over there; she's in Portland Oregon and I'm in So Cal!

Thanks again folks. Very helpful.
2016 6.7 CTD 2500 BIG HORN MEGA CAB
2013 Forest River 3001W Windjammer
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toedtoes
Explorer II
Explorer II
Easy way to know if it is against code: If it were against code, then you wouldn't have the option to buy the 3-prong cord. You'd have the buy the 4-prong cord and re-wire to fit it.
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enblethen
Nomad
Nomad
No, It is not against code when following the exception!

Bud
USAF Retired
Pace Arrow


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Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Explorer III
ScottG wrote:
Old-Biscuit wrote:
3 prong...cause that is what is in dughter's house


Those are against code now and for good reason!
With a three wire 240V cord you can have a situation where the chassis of the stove is at 120V to ground. Something I was shown one time by touching the stove top and a nearby faucet. :E


I agree it should be upgraded! Only issue is if it's a 3 conductor romex feeding the outlet.
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Bobbo
Explorer II
Explorer II
After all of the technical jargon has been spewed, it boils down to this.

1. Look at the outlet and see how many pins it has
2. Buy the power cord that matches the outlet
3. Follow the stove's instructions on wiring the power cord you bought. It will tell the way to wire each.

For those who say GET A 4 PIN OUTLET or PULL NEW WIRE, they are buying a new stove. They are not replacing house wiring. The 3 pin outlet was code when it was installed, and grandfathered into existing code. There is absolutely NO need to replace the outlet or wiring. Buy the correct power cord, wire the stove correctly, and you are both safe AND legal.

This excerpt from the code quoted above:
larry cad wrote:
Exception: For existing branch-circuit installations only
where an equipment grounding conductor is not present in
the outlet or junction box, the frames of electric ranges,
wall-mounted ovens, counter-mounted cooking units,
clothes dryers, and outlet or junction boxes that are part of
the circuit for these appliances shall be permitted to be
connected to the grounded circuit conductor if all the following
conditions are met.

(1) The supply circuit is 120/240-volt, single-phase, 3-wire;
or 208Y/120-volt derived from a 3-phase, 4-wire, wyeconnected
system.

(2) The grounded conductor is not smaller than 10 AWG
copper or 8 AWG aluminum.

(3) The grounded conductor is insulated, or the grounded
conductor is uninsulated and part of a Type SE serviceentrance
cable and the branch circuit originates at the
service equipment.

(4) Grounding contacts of receptacles furnished as part of
the equipment are bonded to the equipment.

Explicitly states that you are good with using the 3 pin outlet with a 3 pin power cord as long as you follow the stove's instructions on how to wire the stove to the 3 pin cord.
Bobbo and Lin
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enblethen
Nomad
Nomad
Code is clear to those of us that have training.
If the house has three wire cable, you can jumper the range's ground to the neutral.
You do not have to run new wire! Get a three wire pigtail. Range owner's manual should tell you how to install jumper. Normally a peice of metal to strap the pins to gether.

Bud
USAF Retired
Pace Arrow


2003 Chev Ice Road Tracker

Dave_H_M
Explorer
Explorer
So now it is clear as a bell. :h

In my house i just wire new appliances in like the old one coming out.

Having to buy a new cord and rewire is BS to me. I have a three wire on my drier and stove.

Delivery guys have tunnel vision and probably for a good reason.

Can't you just tool over there and hook it up for her and shove it back in the space?