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pnichols

The Other California

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Posted: 03/10/19 12:21am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

time2roll wrote:

42-50 did seem low. Can you remind us what it was before?


I "think" that the original noise spec for the EU1000i was 53-59 dB, but at what distance I'm not quite sure now. I seem to recall that some generator manufacturer (maybe Honda?) used to state in print that their noise level specificaitons were in the range of 21-23 feet away.

Onan specifies in print that the noise levels for their Onan RV generators are at 10 feet away. The National Park Service maximum generator noise level rating is for 50 feet away.

The newer lower Honda lower noise level claims are from a "3rd Party Tested" chart that Honda publishes. At the bottom of the chart in very fine print it states that the testing was done in accordance with ISO 9416-2 at a distance of 23 feet.

Now I'm really curious to find out what a fully rev'd up Honda EU1000i sounds like. I sure don't care for the racket that a fully rev'd up EU2000i makes when it's running out in the open. Idling it's OK, but wide open is something else ... they're spinning above 4000 RPM then.


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time2roll

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Posted: 03/10/19 09:53am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Maybe the 61 is not so bad if that compares to 59 at rated power.
If the 61 is idle it would be significantly louder than the 53.


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time2roll

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Posted: 04/09/19 07:31pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

On sale today $249.... that is $50 off. Was $299 while we were talking about it.
I think I am in on this.

dclark1946

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Posted: 04/10/19 06:54am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I purchased one of these over a year ago because I wanted a low cost not too loud unit for occasional use that did not require drainig the fuel between uses. It seems to work fine but have only used it in several loaded test runs. We have a couple of EU1000s for our extended dry camping and a couple of EU2000s for home use in case of power outages. I use Stabil marine in the fuel but do not leave fuel in the tank or carb for more than a month now. Have had to do a couple of carb jobs due to leaving fuel with stabilizer too long in the generator.


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burningman

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Posted: 04/10/19 07:35am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

You guys are calculating a battery charger at it’s absolute maximum possible charging current, and your numbers are correct.
But, in reality that almost never happens.

The solution for carb gumming in a Honda is to install a separate kill switch and unplug the kill switch plug from the original on/off switch, which is a combination ignition and fuel switch.
Then the original switch is only a fuel on/off, and you can shut that off and let the generator run the extra minute or two while it sucks the carb dry and shuts off.
You can stop it anytime with the new kill switch while you’re on an outing where you’ll be starting and stopping it more often.
There’s even just for this, though it’s an ultra-simple mod.


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steved28

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Posted: 04/10/19 07:53am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

My $.02 , I have owned a Honda 1000 since 2004. I love the little thing, but as the years passed, I always regretted not getting the 2000W model. There are quite a few things you can run with 2000 watts that you cannot with 1000 watts. But I only initially purchased it for battery charging also. The thing is, every once in a while you want to run something that you cannot. And I would have to fire up the 4kw noisy on board genny. BTW, plugging directly into the RV was almost always cause for an immediate trip to the Honda. This was on a Coachman 32ft Freelander class C, as well as a Gulfstream 25ft class C.


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time2roll

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Posted: 04/11/19 10:44pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Now there is some BAJA version for $200.69

homedepot.com/p/Baja-900-Watt-Propane-Powered-Inverter-Generator

Ralph Cramden

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Posted: 04/12/19 04:21am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

.

* This post was edited 04/21/19 11:54am by Ralph Cramden *

BFL13

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Posted: 04/12/19 12:30pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Don't have other brands of small charger numbers, but here is what I got for my 35 amp Vector 1092A running from a Honda EU3000is with a Kill-A-Watt to measure:

Output 33.2aDC--125.9v, 6.89a, 568w, 868VA, PF 0.65
Output 18.5aDC--126.5v, 4.04a, 315w, 511VA, PF 0.61

So for the small gen in question, it is highly likely a 35 amp converter would overload it unless the converter were kept at the 13.6v level somehow.

As a desperation recharge when not enough solar, doing any good would depend on the scenario. The batteries would no doubt be quite low, so would accept the max amps of a small amp size charger. You usually cannot control the charger's voltage.

I think Mr Wiz is correct, that you should use the OP gen with say a 20 amp portable charger that will do into the 14v plus range for best charging (13.6ish is too low) and not with your RV converter.

BTW, PowerMax has revised its spec sheet for input requirements for its various sizes of converter, so they are more realistic. PD is still misleading everyone with theirs by failing to note PF etc.

https://powermaxconverters.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/PM3-Spec-Sheet.pdf

Note the 8 amps at 120v required for the 35 amper.

Even if you choose another brand, you can still get a fairly close idea what your gen will have to supply to run whatever amp size converter/charger you are looking at, from that spec sheet.


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wa8yxm

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Posted: 04/12/19 04:27pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The only question I have is how much does it eat (propane) it says run time at 25% load (175 watts) 3 hours.. That is not enough for a full charge on batteris that are at 50%. and also you can not use well you MIGHT be able to run a 60 amp converter (I'd limit to 45) Which will increase your time needed to recharge.

I do notice it shows both a "Throw away" and a 25 pound bottle. so is it 3 hours per throw away or per 25 pounder???? bid difference.

Still for 250.. Worth a look,


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