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Replacing Interior cab wall in upper bedroom

Loren_Ross
Explorer
Explorer
Trying to fix up a 2002 Keystone 5th wheel with major water damage in the front bedroom. Found the leak on the roof and repaired it, but had to open the interior wall to replace it. Found that the insulation was wet and moldy, and the interior paneling had completely de-laminated all the way across the front. Pulled out the paneling and insulation, installed new fiberglass insulation, and then attempted to replace the paneling.

Problem I'm having is the wall is curved inward, matching the curve of the front cap. The old paneling was stapled to the aluminum studs, but for some reason I can't get the new paneling installed with the same curve. The panel is too stiff to bend to the curve. I did push (force) it in against the studs and hit it with my crown stapler, but the staples just go right through the paneling and won't hold it in place. I've set the air pressure on my stapler to 50 psi (supposed to be between 70 and 120) and the staples just keep going through the wood paneling.

Does anyone have a suggestion on how to apply the paneling and follow the curve of the studs? Thanks in advance!!
8 REPLIES 8

D_E_Bishop
Explorer
Explorer
I would fasten the panel to the studs and then use a couple 2x3s to make a brace,to hold the edge in place, the make another T brace and move it along the curve in small increments, stapling as you go. When it gets hard to bend, leave the brace against the panel for a time so tht the panel takes a set, it may take a couple of days to get it to bend to the curve of the studs but the panel will slowly bend into place.

Because you can't see what is happening and if the panel it conforming to the bend before you start attaching the panel make a template that matches the curve to check the bend as you go.
"I travel not to go anywhere, but to go. I travel for travel's sake. The great affair is to go". R. L. Stevenson

David Bishop
2002 Winnebago Adventurer 32V
2009 GMC Canyon
Roadmaster 5000
BrakeBuddy Classic II

gtnsmlr
Explorer
Explorer
Brace the paneling into the curve, then fasten.
The older we get, the faster we go

laknox
Nomad
Nomad
Loren Ross wrote:
Thanks for the replies!! I'm heading to the store for a new piece of paneling, I'll try first to find something thinner. I really didn't want screws, but maybe that's best.

Thanks!!
LR


Might want to think about some Liquid Nails, or similar.

Lyle
2022 GMC Sierra 3500 HD Denali Crew Cab 4x4 Duramax
B&W OEM Companion & Gooseneck Kit
2017 KZ Durango 1500 D277RLT
1936 John Deere Model A
International Flying Farmers 64 Year Member

Loren_Ross
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks for the replies!! I'm heading to the store for a new piece of paneling, I'll try first to find something thinner. I really didn't want screws, but maybe that's best.

Thanks!!
LR

MURPHY55347
Explorer
Explorer
Google "bendable plywood". Several options available. My biggest question is stapling to aluminum studs. It seems as if you have enough power to staple into the aluminum the staple would naturally penetrate the plywood. Might be worth a call to Keystone.

troubledwaters
Explorer
Explorer
Use a thin and flexible material like Luan, stain it and put on a polyurethane finish. But even still, you are probably going to want to use colored screws and washers to fasten it to the curve. I've used screws with caps on them also in similar applications. You can use narrow shallow cuts in the back also to make it more bendable like someone mentioned above.

Darryl_Rita
Explorer
Explorer
Use thinner paneling. Or add scribe lines to the back of the paneling you have.
***UPDATE 2006 3500 SRW MegaCab pulling a 2007 fleetwood 5'er

md_procouple
Explorer
Explorer
I was thinking, did you try calling Keystone, to see what they suggest > Perhaps find out where they get their pannel or by from them ?? Goodluck and Happy Camping !!
Vickie, Me, and "Scruffy" our dog make THREE
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