Permanent propane tank for RV home storage?

[rvshrinker]

I’m going to put up a shed for my 28’ TT. We live in a mild climate and use the trailer even in winter but it does freeze sometimes at night. Is it feasible to put up a permanent propane tank on site, so I don’t have to keep track of the portable tanks and worry about them running out if, for example, I am on vacation?

Anyone tried this? We have no HOA restrictions or anything but our county doesn’t allow people to live in the trailer for more than 60 days per year, so they may balk but it’s at least worth a shot perhaps. We also will be putting in a dump, electricity, and water as our guests usually stay in the trailer.

[rvshrinker]

This is helpful. We do not winterize because we use the TT in the winter. We keep it heated. It is an RV carport, not a shed. It is open on the sides, just to keep the rain and sun off the top.

So it sounds like running the propane is the best way to go.

We really do not have power outages of any length where we live, so I'm not too worried about that.

[GrandpaKip]

Instead of the standard space heater, you might consider a portable hydronic or oil-filled heater.

[JRscooby]

In a shed out of wind? Temps rarely drop below freeze? Put a heater under the trailer controlled by a thermostat. Put a thermostat near the plumbing to turn on the furnace if plumbing gets close to freeze. (Feed furnace off tank outside). Put solar on building to keep battery charged...

[Huntindog]

As has already been said. Most TTs with a sealed underbelly heat the tanks with the PROPANE furnace.
So using space heaters etc. instead will do very little to keep the plumbing from freezing.

As usual PT chimed in with how he does it. But if you go back in history and read his posts.... He has done a lot of mods to his RV, which is a class C (NOT a TT) to make it possible.
He is neglecting to tell you the whole story.

Before I made my extreme cold mods, my TT was good to 6-7 F.
That was with the heater running pretty much constantly. The tanks/plumbing only recieve furnace heat, when it is running. Now at temps in the twentys, the heater can run a lot less without freezeups. But I would not attempt to cut it close on the Tstat setting. Set it at 60 or so and be safe.

Keep it simple and effective. Use propane.

[opnspaces]

I would set the furnace thermostat as low as it will go which should be well above freezing. Then run a few electric heaters about 5 degrees warmer. If the electric fails the furnace should come on. But be aware, if the electricity is out for more than a day or two your furnace will drain the battery and the furnace will stop.

It might be a better idea to get some un-powered propane catalytic heaters. Then if the power goes out your propane heaters will come on.

Of course the next issue is freezing pipes and tanks. You'll want to winterize the RV before you go on vacation in the winter to protect the pipes.

Actually come to think of it there is a better solution. Insulate your RV shed with at least R-30 insulation and get an insulated door. Then use the electric heat to just heat the inside of the shed which will heat the trailer at the same time. If there is a short the heater is sitting on the gravel or concrete floor and only the heater will burn. If the breaker trips you'll still need come propane powered catalytic heaters as the RV battery will only last a day or two.

Also get a freeze alarm that notifies you if the temperature drops too low.

[rvshrinker]

Project is getting started next week. Found the cost of installing a 300 # propane tank with RV adapter is under $60 per year, plus cost of propane. Alternative is to run space heater type deals of the shore power - we are installing 30/50 amp access (this trailer requires 30). Any thoughts on the best, most cost effective way to proceed? I am not sure I like the idea of running an electric space heater all winter long. Shorts? Fires? What if it blows a fuse while we’re out of town and the whole thing freezes up?

[pianotuna]

Hi,

I heat 100% electrically at -37 c (-34 f). My peak load is about 7100 watts.

rvshrinker wrote:
I’m sorry I’m so dumb, but I thought the heat reqired propane? I plan to install electricity anyway. Is there a way to run the heat with 50A shore power?

[GrandpaKip]

rvshrinker wrote:

GrandpaKip wrote:
Lots of semi-permanent campers have large (100 gallons or more) tanks set up outside the camper.
Though I would think electric would be cheaper.

I’m sorry I’m so dumb, but I thought the heat reqired propane? I plan to install electricity anyway. Is there a way to run the heat with 50A shore power?

No, you’re not. I wasn’t clear enough. When we are hooked up to power, we use a ceramic heater to keep warm.
The propane furnace will burn through a lot of gas in a short while. I would think that electric heat would cost less. I would have propane for the water heater.

[Lynnmor]

rvshrinker wrote:


I’m sorry I’m so dumb, but I thought the heat reqired propane? I plan to install electricity anyway. Is there a way to run the heat with 50A shore power?

In order to heat the tanks below the floor, most trailers are required to run the propane furnace. There are modifications that can be made, but that is a whole different discussion.

[CA_Traveler]

rvshrinker wrote:
I’m sorry I’m so dumb, but I thought the heat reqired propane? I plan to install electricity anyway. Is there a way to run the heat with 50A shore power?

Our non propane options:
1. We have 3 electric ceramic heaters which handles most of our heat.

2. We have 3 AC/Heat Pumps .

3. Our furnace and hot water are diesel which also has a small electric heat element.

Propane supplies the refer, stove top and BBQ. We try to remember to add propane every 2 years. :B

[rvshrinker]

GrandpaKip wrote:
Lots of semi-permanent campers have large (100 gallons or more) tanks set up outside the camper.
Though I would think electric would be cheaper.

I’m sorry I’m so dumb, but I thought the heat reqired propane? I plan to install electricity anyway. Is there a way to run the heat with 50A shore power?

[CA_Traveler]

This is my high pressure adapter for the BBQ with a El (for hose routing considerations) and a shutoff valve. Note: The top external tank port came with the adapter. The BBQ connector is the standard 1lb 1" screw on propane bottle type.


Click For Full-Size Image.

[GrandpaKip]

Lots of semi-permanent campers have large (100 gallons or more) tanks set up outside the camper.
Though I would think electric would be cheaper.

[pianotuna]

I'd just put in a 50 amp shore power and use electric heat.