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Honda Generator EU2000

klr650goldwing
Explorer
Explorer
We recently bought a new Honda generator. The first time we used it all was well. A few days later we used it again. This time the generator RPM oscillated the entire time we used it. The only way I could get it to run smoothly was to apply the choke about halfway. Even after the generator was all warmed up it would oscillate without the choke applied. Any ideas on what will cure this?
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46 REPLIES 46

cummins2014
Explorer
Explorer
Me Again wrote:
cummins2014 wrote:

This guy on youtube went one step further he added a switch ,where I added my gas shutoff valve, but wired in the switch ,so he could switch to where the generator remained running until it ran out the gas in the carburetor , or where when he shut it off it quit to add gas. Switch or gas shutoff valve , take your pick.

For me if I would of known , I would of done neither. As often as I winterize mine, I would of taken that front cover off unplugged that connection , and let it run until the carburetor was empty ,and it stopped running .


The did that on our eu1000i, disconnected the run switch from the OEM knob and wired another switch next to it. So I could turn off the OEM knob and let it run the carb dry. Have to do it to our eu2000i.





Its either or, but I would of just went with unplugging that connection, if I had known , I wouldn't have bothered with rewiring or a gas shutoff valve .

Me_Again
Explorer II
Explorer II
cummins2014 wrote:

This guy on youtube went one step further he added a switch ,where I added my gas shutoff valve, but wired in the switch ,so he could switch to where the generator remained running until it ran out the gas in the carburetor , or where when he shut it off it quit to add gas. Switch or gas shutoff valve , take your pick.

For me if I would of known , I would of done neither. As often as I winterize mine, I would of taken that front cover off unplugged that connection , and let it run until the carburetor was empty ,and it stopped running .


The did that on our eu1000i, disconnected the run switch from the OEM knob and wired another switch next to it. So I could turn off the OEM knob and let it run the carb dry. Have to do it to our eu2000i.

2021 F150 2.7 Ecoboost - Summer Home 2017 Bighorn 3575el. Can Am Spyder RT-L Chrome, Kawasaki KRX1000. Retired and enjoying it! RIP DW 07-05-2021

jmbstudios
Explorer
Explorer
I neglected my EU3000I one year. I drained the tank, put this stuff called Mechanic in a Bottle in the there and added fresh gas. 6 pulls and it was good to go.

A friend told me about it. I thought is was snake oil, but wow, it worked great.
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theczar
Explorer
Explorer
golf_bears wrote:
The fuel jet is probably gunked up. You need to remove the carburetor, pull out the fuel jet and clean it.


Agree with Golf Bears. Strange it is happening on a new unit. It happened to my 10+ year old Gen last year. Found this Vid and did the trick.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dLCXb-hg78s

cummins2014
Explorer
Explorer
Me Again wrote:
cummins2014 wrote:


I have used seafoam, its a great stabilizer , I guess. Nothing replaces shutting off the gas ,and running until it quits. No gas in the carb equals no problems

I have a 28 year old Honda lawn power, , and I have done this for 28 years, I leave whatever gas is in the tank, turn off the gas , run till it quits. Top off the gas with fresh in the spring, and it fires on the first one or two pulls, and runs as good as the day it was bought. I do the same with all my small engines.


The way Honda builds the switch into the fuel valve one can not do that. I took my eu1000i apart and did that years ago. Sold that and have an eu2000i that I have not yet added an off/on switch separate from the fuel valve. Chris


Well, the gas shutoff valve is not the only solution on these Honda 2000's. There is a plug that you can unplug, apparently there is a gas shutoff valve. If you unplug the connection when you turn the generator to off it continues to run for about 3 minutes, and quits ,same as adding a shutoff valve. Drawback is if its unplugged you are either waiting three minutes to fill it with gas , or just use the plug to winterize , but you have to get inside to do that .

This guy on youtube went one step further he added a switch ,where I added my gas shutoff valve, but wired in the switch ,so he could switch to where the generator remained running until it ran out the gas in the carburetor , or where when he shut it off it quit to add gas. Switch or gas shutoff valve , take your pick.

For me if I would of known , I would of done neither. As often as I winterize mine, I would of taken that front cover off unplugged that connection , and let it run until the carburetor was empty ,and it stopped running .

cummins2014
Explorer
Explorer
Me Again wrote:
cummins2014 wrote:


I have used seafoam, its a great stabilizer , I guess. Nothing replaces shutting off the gas ,and running until it quits. No gas in the carb equals no problems

I have a 28 year old Honda lawn power, , and I have done this for 28 years, I leave whatever gas is in the tank, turn off the gas , run till it quits. Top off the gas with fresh in the spring, and it fires on the first one or two pulls, and runs as good as the day it was bought. I do the same with all my small engines.


The way Honda builds the switch into the fuel valve one can not do that. I took my eu1000i apart and did that years ago. Sold that and have an eu2000i that I have not yet added an off/on switch separate from the fuel valve. Chris


Not sure what you mean , that you can't add a gas shutoff valve to the generator ??. I added a shutoff valve on my Honda eu2000 on the fuel line where it leaves the tank. Works very well.

Me_Again
Explorer II
Explorer II
cummins2014 wrote:


I have used seafoam, its a great stabilizer , I guess. Nothing replaces shutting off the gas ,and running until it quits. No gas in the carb equals no problems

I have a 28 year old Honda lawn power, , and I have done this for 28 years, I leave whatever gas is in the tank, turn off the gas , run till it quits. Top off the gas with fresh in the spring, and it fires on the first one or two pulls, and runs as good as the day it was bought. I do the same with all my small engines.


The way Honda builds the switch into the fuel valve one can not do that. I took my eu1000i apart and did that years ago. Sold that and have an eu2000i that I have not yet added an off/on switch separate from the fuel valve. Chris
2021 F150 2.7 Ecoboost - Summer Home 2017 Bighorn 3575el. Can Am Spyder RT-L Chrome, Kawasaki KRX1000. Retired and enjoying it! RIP DW 07-05-2021

cummins2014
Explorer
Explorer
Lynnmor wrote:
Tvov wrote:
bombero, I guess I'll write some bunk and am 15 years old... I've had similar experience as Lynnmor running lawn mowing / landscaping equipment.

BEST thing I've found is to run equipment regularly (don't let is sit longer than a month). For long term storage, drain the fuel tank and run the equipment to use the fuel left in the carb. Sure, go ahead and use additives all you want, just be careful depending on them.



Thank You.

I try to run or drain them dry as well.



I am starting to think, no I know some don't seem to get it, you leave gas in the carb for extended period you got a problem . Its pretty simple run the carb dry. I don't seem to have any issues leaving gas in the tanks, just not in the carburetors . 6 months is about as long as anything I have that the gas remains just in the tank itself. I stopped draining the gas out of the tanks years ago .

Lynnmor
Explorer
Explorer
Tvov wrote:
bombero, I guess I'll write some bunk and am 15 years old... I've had similar experience as Lynnmor running lawn mowing / landscaping equipment.

BEST thing I've found is to run equipment regularly (don't let is sit longer than a month). For long term storage, drain the fuel tank and run the equipment to use the fuel left in the carb. Sure, go ahead and use additives all you want, just be careful depending on them.



Thank You.

I try to run or drain them dry as well.

Tvov
Explorer
Explorer
bombero, I guess I'll write some bunk and am 15 years old... I've had similar experience as Lynnmor running lawn mowing / landscaping equipment.

BEST thing I've found is to run equipment regularly (don't let is sit longer than a month). For long term storage, drain the fuel tank and run the equipment to use the fuel left in the carb. Sure, go ahead and use additives all you want, just be careful depending on them.

If you really want dependable long term storage for equipment while keeping it fueled up, try something like Tool Fuel (or Tru Fuel, might be the same company). We use it in the fire department for gas powered equipment we don't use often. Guaranteed for a minimum of 2 years in a motors' fuel tank, vented or not, and will not damage equipment in any way. Guaranteed for a minimum of 10 years in a fuel can that has been opened but then closed tightly, and guaranteed for 100 years / life in a fuel can that has never been opened and is sealed.

It can be expensive....

https://www.amazon.com/TruFuel-4-Cycle-Ethanol-Free-Outdoor-Equipment/dp/B009QT1KLO/ref=asc_df_B009Q...
_________________________________________________________
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ol_Bombero-JC
Explorer
Explorer
Lynnmor wrote:
I have 32 carburetors to deal with on my vehicles, tractors, generators, outboard and lawn & garden equipment. I do all my own engine work and have used exactly one can of Seafoam in my life. That can didn't seem to do a darn thing. If there is junk in a carb, the gasoline will wash it out eventually or physical removal is required, IMHO.


UNLESS you have access to NON-ethanol gasoline - the above is bunk, or you're only 15 years old, ROTFL

A better term would be: "The gasoline MIGHT wash it out eventually.."

*If* the ethanol gasoline sits in a tank (w/out an additive) for an extended period....you WILL have a tank full of what smells like shellac - and you WILL have 32 carbs to disassemble and clean.

Been there, done that - fortunately not even close to 32.

Proverb: An ounce (or more) of prevention (additive) is worth an hour
(or more) of carb cleaning!..:S

:C

RAS43
Explorer III
Explorer III
Their web site states that Seaform stabilizes fuel for up to 2 years. I have gone a year plus without an issue. ??

allen8106
Explorer
Explorer
jkwilson wrote:
babock wrote:
LOL...do not add Seafoam! Do not add a snake oil. If it's new, take it to your dealer for them to determine why its running lean.


Seafoam is an excellent product. It doesn't work magic, but it routinely saves tearing a carburetor apart in engines that have been sitting.


I agree Seafoam works but it's not intended for long term storage.
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cummins2014
Explorer
Explorer
dieseltruckdriver wrote:
I should add, I also only use non ethanol premium in all my small engines.
As far as Seafoam being snake oil, I used to think that too. If you obviously haven't tried it, don't knock it. I used to make fun of it too, and got proved wrong. I am not a big fan of crow.... ๐Ÿ˜‰


I have used seafoam, its a great stabilizer , I guess. Nothing replaces shutting off the gas ,and running until it quits. No gas in the carb equals no problems

I have a 28 year old Honda lawn power, , and I have done this for 28 years, I leave whatever gas is in the tank, turn off the gas , run till it quits. Top off the gas with fresh in the spring, and it fires on the first one or two pulls, and runs as good as the day it was bought. I do the same with all my small engines.