Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: New Coachman, Water Pump Issues - Updated/Fixed
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 > New Coachman, Water Pump Issues - Updated/Fixed

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philh

Belleville MI

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Posted: 04/08/19 09:45am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

wnjj wrote:

Open both valves with the pump off then suck on the winterizing hose until it’s full of water. Then close the tank full valve. Turn on the pump and blow as hard as you can into the full winterizing tube to force water toward the pump.

Our camper has a 2-way valve but I find I can do something similar by putting the valve halfway between to suck water into the winterizing tube. No bucket needed that way.


I'll give it a try... hopefully nobody will pop in to record this episode [emoticon]

opnspaces

San Diego Ca

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Posted: 04/08/19 09:53am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

What happens if you put city water to the system? Do all the faucets flow well? maybe try unscrewing the aerators out of the tips of the faucets and then run the city water through for a fer minuted to flush out any possible debris. Then try the pump again.

My guess is the valves are in the wrong positions. I'm basing this solely on the fact that it is winterized meaning that the pump did work at one point.

Before I pulled it back to the dealer I would probably figure out how much it would cost me in fuel to do so. Keep in mind that the dealer might not be able to fix it the same day necessitating a second round trip. If it's a 240 mile round trip (4 hrs @ 60mph) then take 240/10 (figure 10 MPG towing) * the price for a gallon of fuel (figure 3 dollars a gallon) and you get 240/10 = 24 * 3 = $72.00 plus a whole day wasted pulling back and forth.

At that cost I would buy a $60 PEX crimper and some PEX hose clamps from Home Depot and take the connections apart at the valves and pump. It's possible that one of the valves is installed backwards and therefore the labeling is incorrect. Take the system apart and you should be able to figure it out fairly quickly. Then using your new crimper put it all back together where it makes sense.

Actually I have a better idea. Call the dealer and explain the issue. Ask the service guy to snap a picture of a system with the valves in the correct position for normal use and text you the picture.


1996 Suburban 4x4. 350, 4.10 3/4 ton
2005 Jayco Jay Flight 27BH
1986 Coleman Columbia Popup.

Ralph Cramden

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Posted: 04/08/19 10:13am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

You should not have to prime an RV water pump, they're self priming. There can only be a few things wrong.

1- The tank is empty.
2- The Winterization valve is in the open position as its tied in ahead of the pump.
3- The pump is shot.
4- There is a leak in the suction line or somewhere else ahead of the pump, and it's sucking air.

The city water connection has nothing to do with it, as its tied in past the pump.

SoundGuy

S Ontario

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Posted: 04/08/19 10:32am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Ralph Cramden wrote:

You should not have to prime an RV water pump, they're self priming.

The city water connection has nothing to do with it, as its tied in past the pump.


If the city water inlet check valve isn't sealing properly the water pump can have a difficult time priming & developing sufficient pressure so yes, even a self priming pump will have difficulty priming if there's a leak in the system.


2012 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab
2014 Coachmen Freedom Express 192RBS
2003 Fleetwood Yuma * 2008 K-Z Spree 240BH-LX
2007 TrailCruiser C21RBH * 2000 Fleetwood Santa Fe
1998 Jayco 10UD * 1969 Coleman CT380

catkins

Western Washington

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Posted: 04/08/19 11:43am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If I leave my water valve on Fill Tank,my system will not pressurize and the pump runs and growls. When I return it to City Water, all problems stop. Don’t ask me why I learn this at least once a season..........at least I know what I didn’t do after adding water to the tank . Hope its that easy for you! Good luck.

ksg5000

Oregon

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Posted: 04/08/19 01:26pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

drsteve wrote:

Brand new? It may have plastic shavings or other debris in the filter.


x2. Check the filter screen.


Kevin

Ralph Cramden

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Posted: 04/08/19 01:56pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

.

* This post was last edited 04/21/19 12:03pm by Ralph Cramden *   View edit history

philh

Belleville MI

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Posted: 04/08/19 04:50pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Ok, got some {IMO} bad news.

Pump is fine... although it shakes more than I expect while sucking water through the winterization tube. Great water flow, it sucked a 1 gallon water jar dry pretty quick.

I can not blow or suck through the line connected to the fresh water tank. I did try both positions of the valve... just in case I failed plumbing valve 101 [emoticon]

RV mechanic friend said it's not unheard of for a water tank to not have the hole drilled all the way through for the nipple to attach to the water pump.

Thank you for all the suggestions, but this is a dealer item [emoticon]

Ralph Cramden

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Posted: 04/09/19 04:43am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

.

* This post was edited 04/21/19 11:55am by Ralph Cramden *

philh

Belleville MI

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Posted: 04/09/19 10:14am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Just for grins, I pulled the cap off low point drain, and water came pouring out. I'm guessing line is kinked.

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