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 > 2013 F-150 5.0 running rough

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mich800

Pontiac, MI

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Posted: 04/28/19 04:33pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

In the absence of a hard code, live data/data logging will probably be the best way to diagnose an issue. You are probably just chasing your tail without any objective data on what is going on or where to start.

boogie_4wheel

SLC, Utah

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Posted: 04/28/19 07:46pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Start easy, swap #5 and #7 coils; regardless of the new coil let's prove the new one.
Was there any build up on the plug that you removed? Evidence of oil consumption?
Is this a cold misfire only?

Misfire when not under load has me wanting to think oil ingestion (stem seal), or weak compression. If the injectors are halfway easy to get to, swap their location as well to see if the problem follows the injector.


2005 2500 Cummins/48RE/3.73, QCLB, 4wd, BigHorn, Edge Juice w/ CTS + Turbo Timer,Transgo Shift Kit ISSPro Oil and LP pressure gauges, GDP 20/2 filters, Custom Diesel Steering Box Brace
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patperry2766

Saginaw Texas

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Posted: 04/28/19 10:00pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

jerem0621 wrote:

What brand coil did you use?

I used Accell coils on my V10 and had no positive results.

Go OEM on the coils if you can afford it. When I start chasing misses I change the boots and springs and if that doesn’t work I replace the coils. It can be maddening to find the right coil that is missing.

I did use aftermarket coils on my V10 from a company called Uneek Supply and the coils performed great.

Also, and JMHO... I I put dialectic grease on the connections and I normally replace ALL of the boots and springs on my coils when I change the plugs on my Ford products.

As for plug gaps I just set them per the owners manual.

Also, the fuel filter may need changed. People don’t change them anymore it seems.

Thanks!

Jeremiah


Used Motorcraft plugs & coil. Fuel filter is in the tank and built into the fuel pump from all the research I've been able to do.


Courage is the feeling you have right before you fully understand the situation

patperry2766

Saginaw Texas

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Posted: 04/28/19 10:04pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Gonna try replacing the PVC valve, if it doesn't help then I'll consider it part of the PM I need to do. I do have a recall for the transmission, I guess if I can't get the problem resolved. I'll just have them check it out when I take it in.

I'm not a big advocate of just throwing money at a problem hoping it will fix it.

patperry2766

Saginaw Texas

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Posted: 04/28/19 10:12pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

boogie_4wheel wrote:

Start easy, swap #5 and #7 coils; regardless of the new coil let's prove the new one.
Was there any build up on the plug that you removed? Evidence of oil consumption?
Is this a cold misfire only?

Misfire when not under load has me wanting to think oil ingestion (stem seal), or weak compression. If the injectors are halfway easy to get to, swap their location as well to see if the problem follows the injector.


The original plugs with about 120K miles on them looked great, no evidence of oil consumption or any other indications of internal problems.

Grit dog

Black Diamond, WA

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Posted: 04/29/19 09:38am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Slight vacuum or intake manifold leak somewhere?


"Yes Sir, Oct 10 1888, Those poor school children froze to death in their tracks. They did not even find them until Spring. Especially hard hit were the ones who had to trek uphill to school both ways, with no shoes." -Bert A.

patperry2766

Saginaw Texas

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Posted: 05/01/19 03:04pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

UUGGHHH...

The dark negative thoughts in the back of your mind that you repress, hoping they don't come true.....came true.

Took truck into the dealership. Have a misfire on #4 & #7 with 8% low compression on cyl #7. They are recommending replacing the motor to a tune of almost $11K. That ain't gonna happen.

So...
#1 go to independent and have them replace with crate engine or one from a junk yard and just keep chugging along hoping that the problem won't reappear again in 125K miles

#2, take to independent and have them do a valve job, hoping that's the only source of the low compression and it will solve the issue. If anyone knows a reputable mechanic in the Ft Worth Texas area, I'm all ears.

#3 trade it off

I don't really see a good way of getting out from under this problem best case for under about 5K, the truck is paid off. Should I take whatever equity I have, plus the money to fix the repairs and get something new? The local Ram dealership has some smoking hot deals on the remaining '18's 2500's & 3500's

Fire away

carringb

Corvallis, OR

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Posted: 05/01/19 03:11pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

So... Why did #7 lost compression? They should have done a leak down test to make sure it's a valve issue and not a ring issue.

If it is a valve issue, I'd go ahead and just drop on a reman'd head. Or have the head rebuilt local. But you'd want to change injectors at the same time, because a bad injector is about the only way to burn up a valve or valve seat.

If it's rings, I think a reman motor is the way to go. The Ford complete remans are a pretty good deal for what you get. Just don't do it at a dealer. They charge to much. The Ford remans have a 3-year unlimited mile warranty, and warranty work can be done at any Ford dealer even if a Ford dealer didn't install it.


Bryan

2000 Ford E450 V10 VAN! 450,000+ miles
2014 ORV really big trailer
2015 Ford Focus ST


mich800

Pontiac, MI

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Posted: 05/01/19 03:29pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

patperry2766 wrote:

UUGGHHH...

The dark negative thoughts in the back of your mind that you repress, hoping they don't come true.....came true.

Took truck into the dealership. Have a misfire on #4 & #7 with 8% low compression on cyl #7. They are recommending replacing the motor to a tune of almost $11K. That ain't gonna happen.

So...
#1 go to independent and have them replace with crate engine or one from a junk yard and just keep chugging along hoping that the problem won't reappear again in 125K miles

#2, take to independent and have them do a valve job, hoping that's the only source of the low compression and it will solve the issue. If anyone knows a reputable mechanic in the Ft Worth Texas area, I'm all ears.

#3 trade it off

I don't really see a good way of getting out from under this problem best case for under about 5K, the truck is paid off. Should I take whatever equity I have, plus the money to fix the repairs and get something new? The local Ram dealership has some smoking hot deals on the remaining '18's 2500's & 3500's

Fire away


An 8% variation on cyl 7? Without further diagnosis I am not sure that is enough to through the engine out yet.

turbojimmy

New Jersey

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Posted: 05/01/19 03:42pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

mich800 wrote:

patperry2766 wrote:

UUGGHHH...

The dark negative thoughts in the back of your mind that you repress, hoping they don't come true.....came true.

Took truck into the dealership. Have a misfire on #4 & #7 with 8% low compression on cyl #7. They are recommending replacing the motor to a tune of almost $11K. That ain't gonna happen.

So...
#1 go to independent and have them replace with crate engine or one from a junk yard and just keep chugging along hoping that the problem won't reappear again in 125K miles

#2, take to independent and have them do a valve job, hoping that's the only source of the low compression and it will solve the issue. If anyone knows a reputable mechanic in the Ft Worth Texas area, I'm all ears.

#3 trade it off

I don't really see a good way of getting out from under this problem best case for under about 5K, the truck is paid off. Should I take whatever equity I have, plus the money to fix the repairs and get something new? The local Ram dealership has some smoking hot deals on the remaining '18's 2500's & 3500's

Fire away


An 8% variation on cyl 7? Without further diagnosis I am not sure that is enough to through the engine out yet.


Yeah an 8% variation isn't enough to worry about. 10% is a good rule of thumb but I've seen worse variations in good running engines.

My money is still on fuel delivery. Just sayin...


1984 Allegro M-31 (Dead Metal)



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