Can I repack my own wheel bearings?

[RoyF]

I greased the front-wheel bearings of my International Scout a few times 50 years ago, but I have not looked at a wheel bearing since. Every year, I pay to have my fifth-wheel bearings repacked, but I wonder whether I could do that job myself. The fiver is a Hitchhiker 29.5.

I have the Trailer Life Repair and Maintainance Manual. Page 12.21 has an 18-step procedure for repacking wheel bearings. I ought to be able to follow the step-by-step. But first, do any of you who have doen this job have any advice before I take everything apart and then can't put them back again.

[cummins2014]

I was a whole lot younger than 71 when I went to the bearing packer, don't remember when I did, its been many years. As far as the rest of the tools, they sounded interesting, I did take a look at them , but I never seem to have an issue with the grease seals, anyone that has done very many, finds a technique that works. I don't see the need for those tools, but I'm sure they work .

[WTP-GC]

cummins2014 wrote:

I have changed plenty of races with the brass bar. I suppose a seal installation tool kit is nice ,although I have no idea what it is 🙂 Never had an issue reinstalling grease seals. The one thing I don't do is pack the bearings by hand anymore, I use one of those bearing packers. IMO they do a better job, and a lot less messy, and quicker. Have done many with it, without issue. I know some are old school, but at 71, I guess I'm new school now, I packed bearings way too long by hand .

But as you said keep things clean. Also will take a look at that tool kit from Harbor Freight .

I've always done bearings by hand, but I recently replaced them on one of my boats and used the bearing packer tool/cup thingy and the seal insert tool. Never had more than a smidge of grease of my hands using those tools. Happy I didn't wait until I was 71 to learn that 😉 😉

To the OP's post...18 step guide you say???
remove hub
remove bearings
pack with grease
reinstall

14 beers later, I'm at 18 steps LOL

[BarneyS]

Yep, I am using Mobile 1 synthetic. Actually the bearing I'm working on is from when I rebuilt my Hensley hitch.
Barney

[cummins2014]

BarneyS wrote:
Here is how I pack my bearings. I know gloves should be worn but I don't do this stuff every day and it has not hurt me so far in my 82 years. It is too much fun getting all gooey and slippery! :B
Barney

Yup, now I remember why I went to a bearing packer. Maybe in 10 years when I am 82 I will go back to playing in the grease :B.

No one I believe has mentioned what grease they are using. I switched to whatever I grabbed off the shelve to Mobile 1 synthetic the last few years. Not the cheapest , but one recommended by Dexter if that means anything .

[Michelle_S]

A very important step is to make sure everything is free of any dirt or grit. Get a little dirt or grit into your new bearing and you will be doing all over again soon.

[ford_truck_guy]

Barney, You look like your having WAY TOO MUCH FUN with that grease in your palm...

[ol_Bombero-JC]

SidecarFlip wrote:

time2roll wrote:
Nothing has changed much in 50 years. The grease is better and now we wear rubber gloves to keep the hands clean. Rest is the same. I agree every year is a bit much unless you run miles like a commercial carrier.

I never wear gloves, I like grease under my fingernails.:p

Just run your hands thru your hair to get the grease off.... it's just like using - "LB Butch Wax" from years ago!

:C

[BarneyS]

Here is how I pack my bearings. I know gloves should be worn but I don't do this stuff every day and it has not hurt me so far in my 82 years. It is too much fun getting all gooey and slippery! :B
Barney

[fj12ryder]

Just from my years in the manufacturing industry, I would advise against using any brass as a drift to install bearings/seals, especially bearings. Brass will flake of and you may not see the chunks, and they will not do a bearing any good. Soft steel is less likely to flake off, and therefore works better. Someone mentioned cleaning up after using brass, but it's easier to just not use it in the first place. Some people use a socket that fits the race, but the chrome on the socket can be broken off and that's not good either. It's one of those deals where the proper tool for the job saves you from headaches later.

Hammer faces shouldn't be used to drive in steel races: hard hammer face against hard bearing is not good.

I'll use gloves every chance I can. Too many years of digging ground in grease and oil out from under my nails. Don't need that any more.

[LanceRKeys]

I’m in the do it by hand, don’t ware gloves category. I guess I would worry about the toxic properties if I did it all day every day... maybe. There is something satisfying about doing that job by hand, I remember my dad showing me how to do it and I can’t wait till my son is old enough so I can show him.

[time2roll]

SidecarFlip wrote:

time2roll wrote:
Nothing has changed much in 50 years. The grease is better and now we wear rubber gloves to keep the hands clean. Rest is the same. I agree every year is a bit much unless you run miles like a commercial carrier.

I never wear gloves, I like grease under my fingernails.:p

OK and today most are aware of the toxic properties of these oils and lubricants and prefer not to expose ourselves to more than necessary.

[TxGearhead]

I've got a bearing packer and use it sometimes. I've got skinny fingers and can hook one inside a bearing and pack the grease from my left palm. Maybe 3 minutes per bearing. Packing a bearing by hand is one of those things you have to do at least once.
I just got the HF bearing and seal tool. It's just a 6inch round bar with an assortment of plates that screw on the end and will fit over the thin side of a race and inside the hub. Just hit or tap on the end of the round bar until you hear and feel the race seat. I used a brass bar or drift pin or punch previously. I start my seal by laying the square shank of a chisel or similar tool across the seal. Get it started as flat as possible and tap it in. The square shank will insure the seal is mounted perpendicular to the shaft and is level with the back side of the hub.
Most of my roller bearing work was on process pumps and general purpose turbines. That was using a conductive bearing heater with a digital thermometer and mounted radial and thrust bearings on a pump shaft using thick high temp gloves. Some tapered roller bearings in larger reduction gearboxes. I usually used a Dake arbor press to insert seals. Larger equipment used tilting pad plain bearings. 99% of our process rotating equipment ran with no oil reservoir or grease. We used oil mist off a air/oil generator to a header and tubing drops to the bearing housings.

[cummins2014]

BarneyS wrote:
Take a look at this post for a complete tutorial, complete with pictures, of how to repack your wheel bearings and also how to adjust your trailer brakes. It is stuck at the top of the Towing forum.
Barney

Although that tutorial covers some good points, the important part is pretty much left out, how to properly pack a wheel bearing by hand, there is a technique . Unless you have seen someone pack a wheel bearing by hand the right way, it can be done wrong. Bearing packer takes all the fun out of packing them by hand 🙂

[cummins2014]

azdryheat wrote:
As long as it's done right the first time, you don't need to do it every year.

I agree , I have never done wheel bearings once a year. Yes pack them right. I can only imagine how some do wheel bearings.