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I have 1 week

jfkmk
Explorer
Explorer
My wife and I are volunteering at a camp in Montana this year. It is located about 5 hours from Yellowstone, so we figured we would take an extra week and do some site seeing. We will NOT be camping this time. Here is our thoughts.

Spend 2 days in Yellowstone then travel east to the Gillette area to see Devils Tower.
After seeing that, continue east to the Rapid City area and base the rest of the trip there to see:
Mount Rushmore
Crazy Horse
Deadwood
Badlands
Wind Cave

Then fly home from Rapid City.

It appears this is all doable, especially since I’m not towing my camper. I know it is just getting a taste of the area. We would like to spend more time in Yellowstone, for example, but will be returning at a future date with the camper. My wife has never been in the area, so we want to see as much as possible.

Am I missing anything obvious? Any pointers in seeing the area? It’s been about 30 years since I’ve been to this area of the country.

Thanks in advance!
21 REPLIES 21

jfkmk
Explorer
Explorer
Well, we just returned from our trip! After an epic week of volunteering at the camp in Bigfork MT, we started our personal road trip.

Yellowstone was great! We based ourselves in Gardiner at the north entrance. We only stayed two full days, but really enjoyed it. We got to Old Faithful 10 minutes before it erupted. Talk about luck! We know we didn’t see all of YNP, but we saw a lot. My wife and I are early risers and took advantage of the quick breakfast at the hotels and brought picnic lunches we bought the night before.

On to Devils Tower, where we drove to and toured the same day. Had a blast!

Next stop Mt. Rushmore, which is the one stop I would have skipped (too touristy) and a stay in Custer. Thanks for the suggestion on Custer, it was a nice little town. We explored Custer State Park including Needles Highway, Spokane, and tried to see Wind Cave, but it was closed!

We hit the Badlands and the Minuteman Missile site. After that, we explored Lead and Deadwood.

Custer has some great fireworks for the 4th. They started a little early to try to beat the storm, which they did...barely!

Throughout the entire two weeks we had fantastic weather. It rained every day but didn’t interfere with the days activities. It was cool every morning (long sleeve shirt to start the day) and was never blazingly hot.

I wish we had more time, and some day we will, but for now work gets in the way!

ppine
Explorer II
Explorer II
When you onlly have a week, focus on being there instead of driving to the next location.

jfkmk
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks everyone. I think we will try an additional day at Yellowstone. If I skip anything, I’d rather it is Mount Rushmore. I’ve been to devils tower and loved It! Thanks for the advice on Custer, I’ll keep that in mind too!

Roy_Lynne
Explorer
Explorer
I wouldn't base in Rapid City, I'd base in Custer. Its 20 minutes to everything on your list except the Badlands and thats about 2 hours.

maddog348
Explorer
Explorer
If NOT Camping where will you spend your nights??

JM2¢ ~~ YMMV

Corky12
Explorer
Explorer
Rather than using Rapid City as a base I would suggest Custer/Hill City area. Much closer to Mt Rushmore, Wind Cave, Custer State Park. Rapid would entail a lot of extra driving.

schlep1967
Explorer III
Explorer III
Earl E wrote:
Yep, another day at Yellowstone, skip Devils Tower, and the rest in the Black Hills.

Here's the thing with this. He is driving past Devil's tower either way. It is a 65 mile side trip to go to Devil's tower. Which is technically only adding 32.5 miles to his trip. Leave Yellowstone early in the day and you will have time to see Devils tower and then continue on to the Black Hills to your hotel.

We left Rawlins, WY in the morning on a motorcycle went to Devil's Tower and still had time to set up a tent in Custer State Park before it got dark.
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Earl_E
Explorer
Explorer
Yep, another day at Yellowstone, skip Devils Tower, and the rest in the Black Hills.
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Honeybee8888
Explorer
Explorer
I agree with those who said you should consider an additional day at Yellowstone and one less in the Black Hills. We've been to both several times, and although the Black Hills has many individual sites of great interest and beauty, Yellowstone is simply mindboggling the first time you are there. Don't let people tell you to skip your "taster's menu" of the area, though! You will want to come back no matter where you go and what you see, but that's just the way life is! How much you will actually get to see, especially in Yellowstone, depends on the month you are there. August is utterly miserable--we were there last summer (2018) and literally could not get into the parking lots. When we were there in September (2011), we saw all the highlights of the park in three days. If you are interested, here are the blogs from those three days to give you an idea:

http://debandjoeontheroad.blogspot.com/2011/09/wow-just-wow.html
http://debandjoeontheroad.blogspot.com/2011/09/water-water-everywhere.html
http://debandjoeontheroad.blogspot.com/2011/09/wild-kingdom.html

My blog from 2007 includes details of two days in the Badlands/Black Hills and Devil's Tower. Traveling from NJ and only having one month, we went to Yosemite and back, and it was truly wonderful, despite not having a week in every place we stopped.

The truth is, no matter where you go, you will feel that your trip was fantastic. Take it from another NJ member 🙂

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richardcoxid
Explorer
Explorer
Some general information about YNP (some general items apply to GTNP also)

YNP is BIG!, about 45 miles E/W and about 65 miles N/S (2.2 mil. Acres total). The “figure 8 grand loop” road inside the park is about 140 miles around. The lower loop is 96 miles and the upper loop is 70 miles around and yes, it is bigger than the states of Rhode Island and Delaware combined.

Whatever time that you think you will need to see YNP you better double it, or to say it another way is that you will see one half as much as you planned on in the allotted time. The Bison think that they own the road (they do!) and will slow down the traffic to walking speed or stop all traffic for 1/4 mile or more blocking both directions of travel, the thermal attractions also tie up traffic and with a 5 month long summer tourist season that coincides with a 5 month long road construction season and a 45 MPH radar controlled speed limit it will take about a full day to see each loop and then you will only see the main attractions. In addition to the occasional construction delays they will also sometimes close whole sections of road (for uninterrupted night construction) between 10 PM and 8 AM in the morning, if you are running late and get caught at night in the wrong area it CAN be a LONG way around to your CG! (The entrance stations will have current construction information or go on line to check it out)

Then there is the elevation- YNP ranges from a low at Mammoth- 6239 ft to 7784 ft at Fishing Bridge or higher if you go hiking and there are passes on the grand loop road that are close to 8000 ft or so! Drink plenty of liquids and pace yourself when walking.

I recommend that you get up EARLY, leave the CG and be back by 4 or 6 PM have dinner and be sitting in your recliner drinking a cool one when your neighbor drags himself back to the CG at 8-10 PM. Remember that from mid May to mid July in YNP the sun doesn't set until about 9:30- 9:45 PM then there is a long twilight.

Cell Phone Service- Only at the major visitor centers, otherwise non-existent!

Clothing- Especially in the early or late season it is not unusual to have a 30 or even the occasional 40 degree temperature change throughout the day. Dress with easily shed layers of clothing. Also dress in bright easily seen clothing. I am sure that we all have been to a sporting event, parade or Disney World etc. and we blink our eyes and our partner/child has disappeared. My DIL was born and raised in HI, you guessed it, every Xmas, b-day or Father's Day I receive a Hawaiian shirt. One of them is shiny black with 4-5 inch dia. bright flowers. Not many of them in Wyoming and in YSNP, that is what I wear. If your partner has on a Violet blouse and a Orange scarf with a Pink hat I guarantee that she will be the only one within the boundaries of either NP. It can save you a few anxious moments.

Water- Now I will have to contradict myself, at the altitude of YNP yes, drink lots of water! HOWEVER, be aware that the flush toilet restrooms are are in the major tourist areas- Mammoth, Canyon, Fishing Bridge, Lake Hotel, Bridge Bay, Grant Village, Old Faithful, Madison Junction etc. The geyser basins and other thermal attractions areas only have pit toilets. I have seen the pit toilet line at the lower Geyser Basin (2 R/Rs) 25 or more feet long (bless the tour buses) So be smart about drinking your water and use the major tourist area R/Rs before leaving the area! I.e. “Never pass up a flush toilet!”

Sun- At YSNP altitude the Sun is intense (uv)have and apply sunscreen, wear that old floppy wide brim sun hat, wear Sunglasses!

If your luck is like mine Old Faithful will have just erupted when you get there and you will have up to a hour and 10 to 15 minutes wait for the next one. Tour tour the O/F Geyser basin while waiting. O/F INN is a must see, reportedly the largest LOG building in the U.S. (Meals in the O/F Inn dinning room are “A OK” also.

We have lived about 110 miles from West Yellowstone, MT since 1964, go to YSNP 3-4 times a summer (normally before Memorial Day and after Labor Day) and haven't seen it all yet! So don’t be discouraged that you didn’t have the time to see all of it. Just plan on coming back another time!

I honestly don’t mean to scare or discourage you but to give you a heads up as to what to expect! After all there was 4.1 million visitors in 2015! As far as I know we didn’t lose one of them. Except those who by their own stupidity step off the board walks into BOILING HOT water and ignoring the warnings about the WILD ANIMALS! That is called purifying the gene pool!

Note I have seen on this blog and others about folks “day tripping” from YSNP to GTNP, it is done all the time (myself included) however remember this is BIG country and with the speed limits, animals and thermal attractions you will be doing a LOT of driving. From Grant Village Visitor Center (extreme S/E corner of the lower loop road) to Jackson, WY is about 80 miles with Coulter Bay being about 1/2 way then from Grant Village you have to add the distance to your CG it will be a Long days trip!

A point of Coulter Bay (GTNP) clarification- there are two (2) CG’s at Coulter Bay, One the “Coulter Bay RV Park” a full service “RV Park” with FHU’S that takes reservations. The other is the “Coulter Bay Campground “ has no hookups and doesn’t take reservations. Both have about 300 sites and are basically across the road from each other.

When in the Jackson area I highly recommend seeing the Bar J Chuckwagon dinner show! If you go, MAKE RESERVATIONS and BE THERE EARLY TO PICK UP YOUR MEAL TICKETS/ TABLE SEATING ASSIGNMENTS! They seat you by when you show up to get your tickets NOT by your reservation number. Tim, their fiddle player has won the "Idaho state old time fiddle contest 7 times and the US open fiddle championship twice". If you decide to go you will sit at picnic type of bench seats/table, they get pretty hard, I recommend that you take along a blanket/pads to sit on. We day trip it there 2-4 times every summer just to see them! Disclaimer- We have no financial or other interest in the Bar J only that it will be the best $$ value for your money on your trip! Check out their website.

http://www.barjchuckwagon.com

Also in Jackson check out the “COWBOY” bar, the bar stools are saddles and the # of Silver Dollars in the bar. The Wort Hotel Bar (just around the corner from the Cowboy Bar) also has Silver Dollars imbedded in the Bar
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jfkmk
Explorer
Explorer
Folks, thanks for all the suggestions. I realize two days in Yellowstone isn’t nearly enough, and we do plan to return in a few years when I retire and we have nothing but time.

My wife has never been to this area of the country and wants to get a good sampling, not necessarily a deep dive, of what is out there. I’ve been to this area years ago and loved the trip. Maybe we will take another day at Yellowstone, but we really want to see the other areas as well.

Our original plan (at least for now) is to fly out of Rapid City back to NJ.

BB_TX
Nomad
Nomad
tragusa3 wrote:
I assume the OP is returning to New Jersey? passing right by The Black Hills?

He said he was flying home from Rapid City afterward.

tragusa3
Explorer
Explorer
I assume the OP is returning to New Jersey? passing right by The Black Hills?
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4runnerguy
Explorer
Explorer
Peronally I would take the entire week at Yellowstone and Grand Tetons. If you have two FULL days, you'll be able to drive the main park roads and stop to see Old Faithful but little else. While much of the park has 35 MPH speed limits, you rarely get to go that speed with all the traffic plus the occasional traffic stoppage for animal sightings. Ofen there is a wait to get a parking spot at the more popular stops. You'll spend a lot of time looking at the vehicle in front of you.

The Black Hills are a long drive and not nearly as scenic IMHO. (Coming from Colorado we understand why they're the Black HILLS not mountains!) 😉
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