Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Fifth-Wheels: CURT Q20 Slop and Noise
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 > CURT Q20 Slop and Noise

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Cummins12V98

on the road

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Posted: 05/17/19 09:21am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

"If you are saying that using a Curt is putting ones life at risk is overreach."

NOPE not saying that.


2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's
37,800# GCVWR "Towing Beast"

"HeavyWeight" B&W RVK3600

2016 MobileSuites 39TKSB3 highly "Elited" In the stable

2007.5 Mobile Suites 36 SB3 29,000# Combined SOLD

Cummins12V98

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Posted: 05/18/19 06:37am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I sent Curt an email asking where their 5er hitches are made. Seems I did this once before with no response. Will post if they reply.

jerem0621

Tennessee

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Posted: 05/19/19 03:26pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

OP, you may just need to set your brake controller a little more aggressively to take up some slop.

My Dad had a Curt 20k slider and put around 40k towing miles on it. Yea it was a little lose in its tolerances, especially with the slider, but it was VERY secure. Make sure you are greasing it properly.

Give Curt a call and see what they say.

Thanks and JMHO,

Jeremiah


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- Walt Disney-


BarneyS

S.E. Lower Michigan

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Posted: 05/19/19 04:42pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have deleted a lot of off topic posts between two or three individuals who like to bait and troll each other and often get threads closed. In an attempt to keep this one open I elected to delete the members off topic posts.
Carry on but keep your remarks on topic to this thread title.
Barney


2004 Sunnybrook Titan 30FKS TT
Hensley "Arrow" 1400# hitch (Sold)
2019 Ram Limited 1500, 5.7L Hemi, 4x4, SB
Not towing now.
Former tow vehicles were 2016 Ram 2500 CTD, 2002 Ford F250, 7.3 PSD


Cummins12V98

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Posted: 05/20/19 07:54am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

lee worsdell wrote:

curt is Chinese and assembled in the states. They don't use a higher grade as bolts as on b&w.


Below is the response from CURT about where the CURT 5er hitches are made.

Good morning,

The 5th wheel hitches are mad in China.

Thank you,
Steve



From: OrderHub Support B
Sent: Friday, May 17, 2019 8:09 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Contact Form

blofgren

Surrey, B.C.

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Posted: 05/20/19 09:41pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have the Ram (Curt) 20k slider in my truck and really don’t notice any more slop or noise than my previous hitches. My last was a Hijacker slider which was an excellent hitch.


2013 Ram 3500 Megacab DRW Laramie 4x4, 6.7L Cummins, G56, 3.73, Maximum Steel, black lthr, RAM 20k sliding hitch, Retrax, Linex, and a bunch of options incl. cargo camera
2008 Corsair Excella Platinum 34.5 CKTS fifth wheel with winter package & disc brakes

cummins2014

Utah

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Posted: 05/21/19 09:19am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

blofgren wrote:

I have the Ram (Curt) 20k slider in my truck and really don’t notice any more slop or noise than my previous hitches. My last was a Hijacker slider which was an excellent hitch.


I actually tow with two different hitches , the Andersen rail mount ,and a 18K Reese slider, depending on the trip I am going on. Bought the Andersen for ease of removal, if its a fishing trip, and need to haul around my inflatable pontoon boat .

I prefer the Reese slider, like you there is a bit of noise with the Reese, never been concerned where it was made, and not sure if it is made in the US.

I think the important thing here is if you are happy with your choice, some seem to think they need to convince others of their choice of hitch is the only way to go , or the importance of where it is made .

cummins2014

Utah

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Posted: 05/21/19 09:20am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Cummins12V98 wrote:

lee worsdell wrote:

curt is Chinese and assembled in the states. They don't use a higher grade as bolts as on b&w.


Below is the response from CURT about where the CURT 5er hitches are made.

Good morning,

The 5th wheel hitches are mad in China.

Thank you,
Steve



From: OrderHub Support B
Sent: Friday, May 17, 2019 8:09 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Contact Form



I hope many find this useful, thanks for your efforts. [emoticon]

jjinatx

Austin, TX, USA

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Posted: 05/21/19 01:55pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

jjinatx wrote:

Durb wrote:

I had start/stop clanking with my ISR mounted hitch. I remedied the situation by using Curt 16900 sound deadening pads. Four bucks for a set of four on Amazon. I took out the front pins and pried the hitch up enough to mount the pads. Repeated the process for the rears. Really easy.


I went out to the truck and found out that the end of roller mount towards the cab has pads and the end towards the tailgate doesn't. So, the installer left them out for some reason. Since I have the pads, I'll go out today and see if I can lift that end and slide them in. The cab end is snug, The tailgate end is where the play is.


Tried to add the 2 missing rubber pads. I was able to lift the end of the R20 with a crow bar enough to slip the pads over the nubs that sit in the rail holes. Problem is, that I cannot get the pins back in. The pads are too thick to go in the gap between the R20 base and the rear ISR. I didn't want to beat on the pins with a hammer for fear of distorting the, but I did use a chunk of wood (poor man's dead blow hammer) to try to tap them through but couldn't do it. Guess that's why the installer didn't put them in. And before you ask, yes, the rails are also made by CURT. I'll try fabbing some thinner pads from scrap EPDM pond liner and try those tomorrow.

While out there, I noticed that 4 of the 8 wheels the slider rolls on aren't touching the R20 base. This is unloaded, so I don't know if they all touch with the pin weight on the hitch. I'll see next time I hook up.

-jj


Current Rig: 2017 F350 Crew Cab Short Bed 4X4 Powerstroke, 2018 Grand Design Reflection 29RS. Dearly Departed: 2003 GMC Sierra 3500 Dually, 2002 Bigfoot 25C10.6.


redhooker

Florida

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Posted: 05/26/19 06:05pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have owned 2 Curt hitches. Both Q20, one roller base and one stationary. Here’s why they suck:

The roller is doing what the OP describes because of the slop between the base and rails. Yes the fix is the pads but you need all four, and yes you will have to beat the pins in with a hammer and I used an angled vice grip to give me a flat surface to hit. You will also curse, sweat, and likely bleed when you need to beat them out.

The fixed base model cracks the rails, sinking deeper into them creating a increasing slop condition. This is due to poor design, and possibly inferior steel quality of the rails. I will attempt to provide pics here, but the issue is the tab design. It concentrates the pin weight onto tiny points adjacent to the slots. Curt replaced my rails but I still spent $300 getting them reinstalled. First trip after new rails went in-almost exclusively on decent interstate (about 1000 miles)-and rails are cracked again. All 4 slots. Perhaps the pucks are better but I would advise anyone considering a Curt to keep shopping.

Curt has been a huge disappointment but the selection of hitches rated north of 20k is slim so I made a second attempt with the non-slider model.

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