Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Tech Issues: Switch to LIFePO4?
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RCMAN46

NorthWest

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Joined: 02/24/2008

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Posted: 07/02/19 11:09am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

RickLIght wrote:

The single most efficient way to convert power to heat is an electric heater.


I take exception to this. Heat pumps will convert more electric energy to heat than an electric heater by a factor of 3-5 times.

phemens

Montreal, Canada

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Posted: 07/02/19 06:28pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

ok, lol, but seeing as I don't have a spare (or portable) heat pump, a small electric heater makes sense. However, mine is 1500W, which will exceed the single battery max draw of 100A.

Itenerant, the inverter charger is a Samlex 3012, it does seem to have pass-through capability.
On further reading manual does make mention of a stand-by mode which states:

3.4 STANDBY MODE
When in Standby Mode, the EVO will stop inverting or passing through AC input to AC output.
Also, charging is cancelled when in Standby Mode.
A short press (0.1 seconds) of the ON/OFF Button will change the operational mode from
Inverting or Charging Mode to Standby Mode. A subsequent short press when in Standby
Mode will return the EVO Inverter Charger to Inverting or Charging Mode.
This mode is used for uploading firmware for EVO Inverter Charger through the SD Card.
This mode may also be used to temporarily halt inverting, charging and AC pass through.


So I guess I can use this to limit charging, will have to check to make sure stand-by mode does not disrupt 12V, which I would doubt.


2012 Dutchman Denali 324LBS behind a 2006 Ford F-250 V10 out of Montreal
1 DW, 1 DD, 1 DS, 2 HD (Hyper Dogs)
1Kw solar, 500 AH LIFePO4, Yamaha EF2000 gen, Samlex 3000w Inverter

BFL13

Victoria, BC

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Posted: 07/02/19 07:12pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The I/C in standby mode will be drawing from the battery bank at whatever amps, so the bank will not stay at 80%. If you use the converter to back that up it will also bring the Lis up to 100%

You need 12v for the fridge on 120v. Why have the inverter on standby instead of all the way off? And you don't want it on to supply the fridge either.


1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
See Profile for House electronics set-up.

Itinerant1

Itinerant

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Posted: 07/02/19 08:21pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Phemens, I was just browsing your manual and the optional remote.

Are you just using default settings not going with the optional remote for more programmableity and read out features?

phemens

Montreal, Canada

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Posted: 07/03/19 05:56am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have the remote and will program via it.
I sent an email to Samelex to see whether the unit will continue to provide 12v to the RV (as converter) while batteries are turned off via cut-off switch. If not, I'll be forced to use the old converter for that purpose, would be the simplest solution I guess.

BFL13

Victoria, BC

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Posted: 07/03/19 06:56am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

One way to have the I/C shut off and Li battery disconnected from RV 12v systems (but still connected to the I/C and sitting at 80%) and run the fridge is-

to run an extension cord to the back of the fridge outside and plug the fridge into that instead of the RV. (No complication about using the shore power cord and its connection to the inverter input)

Also plug the converter into that extension cord and clamp its 12v output to the fridge 12v input, say at the DC fuse panel. Now you get 12v lights too.

What happened to the OEM converter? If still there and you can have shore power while the I/C is by-passed and the Li bank is isolated, then you can do it all without using the extra converter.

Itinerant1

Itinerant

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Posted: 07/03/19 07:21am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Your Samlex is very similar to the Magnum 3012 hybrid I'm using. I can say that if I turn the batteries switch off it does shut the Magnum down along with everything else in the rig.
Granted I'm fulltime never shutting down and it has been near 2.5 years since actually plugging in to a power pole, just using solar as the charging source living off of lfp power.
When I did plug in I still never turned the inverter off, I just set the Float setting to 13.6v (you could lower if it made you feel more comfortable). I never was plugged in for more than 3 weeks tops. If power was lost in the rv park we were good to go.
I'm guessing that you're think of leaving it plugged in during the summer months when not in use and disconnecting it during winter months (Canada weather).
You'll be able to really tweak the settings to your liking/ requirements, so just lower the settings during your plugged in time you should safe and not overcharge the batteries. They'll just sit at a lower voltage in the back ground while your 120 power passes through the Samlex powering the fridge or whatever else running.

Give an idea of my system. Not drop in, my bms/ cpu is to the left.
[image]

pianotuna

Regina, SK, Canada

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Posted: 07/03/19 07:41am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

My inverter install includes a set of high amperage disconnect switches, one for each battery bank. The OEM battery disconnect is just for the relatively low loads for "house" requirements.

I can't understand why it is necessary to not keep the OEM 12 volt system in place, unless the battery bank is going to be 24, 36, or 48 volts.

If bank voltage is not 12, it would be a simple matter to include a small AGM jar to power those relatively tiny loads any the OEM converter may be left in place to charge that AGM.

Another solution would be a dc to dc converter.


Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp hours of AGM in two battery banks 12 volt batteries, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

BFL13

Victoria, BC

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Posted: 07/03/19 08:00am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

AFAIK, PT has those two high amp switches for recharging one bank at a time. Normally, you would not have any disconnect switch between inverter and battery bank with those high amp fat wires. You might have a high amp fuse in a holder that would be easy to take out of its holder, not sure how those things work.

To isolate the Li bank from the I/C draw even on standby, you would have to shut off the I/C. I don't know, but assume there is an on/off button for that.

For the battery meter to show 80%, that would need it to be resting at some voltage where that is 80%. If the battery is under load and shows that voltage, it could be at a way higher SOC.

So to run the fridge and other loads off the battery to keep the battery under 80% but over 50%, how are you going to measure the SOC?

I think you have to get the battery down to 80% and isolate it from all loads. Now the meter on the battery is right, and you have to get your 12v somewhere else.

Itinerant1

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Posted: 07/03/19 08:10am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

You guys are over thinking it. During the summer no reason to turn it off even if plugged in with lfp.

Good luck.

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