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Inverter/solar install questions

robertdmunn
Explorer
Explorer
I am installing an inverter and solar panel setup in my Volante 380MD 5th wheel. I have a Magnum 2812 inverter, 2x 100AH lithium batteries, getting 400AH more of batteries soon.

What I am thinking of doing is making the current primary electrical panel the subpanel and installing a 2nd panel as the main panel with shore power and AC, converter and other services I do not want to run off the inverter in the new panel. I also plan to move the shore power plug from the rear of the RV to the front, closer to the inverter for a shorter power run.

Looking for suggestions or cautions on my plan. I have most of the gear but might need more cable to move circuits to the new panel.


Thanks in advance ...
23 REPLIES 23

pianotuna
Nomad II
Nomad II
Hi,

If adding cooling fanS, make sure they are 12 volt. The Magnum uses 120 volt fans internally--and when you switch off the inverter the fans shut down. DAMHIK.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

robertdmunn
Explorer
Explorer
Itinerant1 wrote:
I have the Magnum 3012 inverter and as suggested a sub panel was added. The new panel had the main, inverter, hot water moved to it making the original the sub panel.

The last time I hooked up to a power pole (50a) I would just flip the hot water switch on in the main panel. This is the hybrid unit so on the me-arc I would adjust the incoming ac to 50a to power everything off of the power pole.

Like yours the panel is in the middle of trailer and the inverter, batteries, pt controller are in the front compartment.



OK, so that's essentially my original plan, which is in part based on making as few changes as possible to the existing wiring. I need to put the new main panel in the front storage compartment, which is why I was thinking of moving the plug rather than make a new run all the way from the rear to the front of the RV.

So my version of this plan would be:

1. Move plug from rear to front. There is already a properly sized hole where the vent from the original flooded battery was.

2. New panel with main, ac, wh, and 30A breaker to inverter AC input in front.

3. Current run from rear plug to main becomes the run from the inverter AC output to the old main panel, now the subpanel.

4. Old converter is disconnected and removed as Magnum 2812 is an IC.

5. Main breaker on old main panel switched to 30A to match output of inverter.

6. 400A fuse on DC wire from inverter to batteries.

7. #0000 wire connects inverter to batteries.

I am planning on mounting the inverter on the bottom of the front storage compartment, and I'm thinking of adding some kind of heat sink/spreader under the base. Since the bottom of the compartment is metal, it will spread the heat, though it could get quite warm. I might use the small output circuit from the solar charge controller to power a small exhaust fan, something like a 120mm computer case fan.

robertdmunn
Explorer
Explorer
time2roll wrote:
robertdmunn wrote:
Good points, thanks. We often connect to shore power at 30A and haven't really had issues with it, but am I limited to 30A in pass-through mode using shore power with a single unit? We don't really need A/C or elec. water heater, so when inverting, 30A is enough.
I believe if you feed the full 50 amp split phase through the inverter transfer switch the main breakers in the RV should be swapped down to 30 amps.


good point ...

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
And here I have 1,600 USABLE amp hours @ 24 volts

And I wouldn't DREAM of extended bedroom use of a 5,000 BTU air conditioner UNLESS I had 50 amps worth of solar.

Must be a new kind of math? ๐Ÿ™‚

CA_Traveler
Explorer III
Explorer III
time2roll wrote:
I believe if you feed the full 50 amp split phase through the inverter transfer switch the main breakers in the RV should be swapped down to 30 amps.
Also call Magnum and find out if you need a dual 30A CB on the Magnum input to protect the Magnum.
2009 Holiday Rambler 42' Scepter with ISL 400 Cummins
750 Watts Solar Morningstar MPPT 60 Controller
2014 Grand Cherokee Overland

Bob

time2roll
Explorer II
Explorer II
robertdmunn wrote:
Good points, thanks. We often connect to shore power at 30A and haven't really had issues with it, but am I limited to 30A in pass-through mode using shore power with a single unit? We don't really need A/C or elec. water heater, so when inverting, 30A is enough.
I believe if you feed the full 50 amp split phase through the inverter transfer switch the main breakers in the RV should be swapped down to 30 amps.

Itinerant1
Explorer
Explorer
I have the Magnum 3012 inverter and as suggested a sub panel was added. The new panel had the main, inverter, hot water moved to it making the original the sub panel.

The last time I hooked up to a power pole (50a) I would just flip the hot water switch on in the main panel. This is the hybrid unit so on the me-arc I would adjust the incoming ac to 50a to power everything off of the power pole.







Like yours the panel is in the middle of trailer and the inverter, batteries, pt controller are in the front compartment.
12v 500ah, 20 cells_ 4s5p (GBS LFMP battery system). 8 CTI 160 watt panels (1,280 watts)2s4p,Panels mounted flat. Magnum PT100 SCC, Magnum 3012 hybrid inverter, ME-ARC 50. Installed 4/2016 been on 24/7/365, daily 35-45% DOD 2,500+ partial cycles.

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
First the panel in the RV now is technically a "SUB" panel. (Neutral and ground NOT bonded".

Normally when installing an inverter you add a second (Sub/Sub?) and move inverter powered circuits. BUt from a technical viewpoint. What you purpose.

Same thing.. SO it should work just fine. The only difference is the main breaker on the existing panel should be changed to match the output of the inverter. Or rather the maximum pass through. IE for my 2000 that's 30 amps
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

robertdmunn
Explorer
Explorer
time2roll wrote:
This one?



I assume 50 amp RV?

MS 2812 has a transfer rated 30 amps per pole. You can parallel them for 60 amps on one leg. For a 50 amp RV and using the built-in inverter transfer switch you really can only power one side of the RV. You will want to load the inverter items onto the inverter side and non inverter items on the other side. In a way this resolves the sub-panel issues. Also you only need 6/2 wire to make the round trip forward to the inverter and back to the main panel.

2812 Manual see p25


Good points, thanks. We often connect to shore power at 30A and haven't really had issues with it, but am I limited to 30A in pass-through mode using shore power with a single unit? We don't really need A/C or elec. water heater, so when inverting, 30A is enough.

robertdmunn
Explorer
Explorer
CA Traveler wrote:
My 30' cord normally reaches, but I do carry an extension cord when needed.

Whole house is an option and might work very well for you. A/C run time on batteries will be limited, but dependent on your solar capability.


I bought a 50' 30A cord as backup. We don't use the A/C much, so generally 30A is ok for us.

Space-wise I could mount as much as 1600 watts of panels. I saw a recent post here by someone who is boondocking in a similar setup- 500AH of lithium plus 1200+ watts of panels. Sounds good!

Now if I can just get my wife to agree to the composting toilet.

robertdmunn
Explorer
Explorer
BFL13 wrote:
You are allowed to have the Li batteries inside. So IMO move the batteries to be by the power centre and put the inverter there too (maybe give up the bottom dresser drawer for that if needed on the other side of the wall.) Solar controller there too on wall.

Save all kinds of wiring routing plus keep 12v wires short.


Between the inverter and the batteries, that's a big chunk of space inside we don't want to lose. Also, the inverter manual says the bottom of the unit can reach 200F and needs to be mounted on something non-combustible.
See my reply to 2oldman's post, I think that's how I'm going to set it up.

CA_Traveler
Explorer III
Explorer III
robertdmunn wrote:
I've had a few experiences where the pedestal was in the middle of the site and with the length of this thing my 30' 50A cord barely reaches, but I realize I might be in the same situation at other sites if I move it to the front.

Se my reply to 2oldmn as well. I think I might just do the whole house install he suggested.
My 30' cord normally reaches, but I do carry an extension cord when needed.

Whole house is an option and might work very well for you. A/C run time on batteries will be limited, but dependent on your solar capability.
2009 Holiday Rambler 42' Scepter with ISL 400 Cummins
750 Watts Solar Morningstar MPPT 60 Controller
2014 Grand Cherokee Overland

Bob

robertdmunn
Explorer
Explorer
BFL13 wrote:


BTW nice unit! (I watched the video but they didn't show any electrical stuff)

scroll down to the 380MD

***Link Removed***


Thanks! We've enjoyed it so far. Wife pushed to get a bigger unit than what I originally considered. Really glad we did. I love having a kitchen island, and the extra space is well worth the trade-off in convenience. Pulling with my 6.7 F-350 isn't nearly as hard as I thought it would be. Sometimes I'd like the convenience of a 30' class A, but overall this is a great unit.

time2roll
Explorer II
Explorer II
This one?



I assume 50 amp RV?

MS 2812 has a transfer rated 30 amps per pole. You can parallel them for 60 amps on one leg. For a 50 amp RV and using the built-in inverter transfer switch you really can only power one side of the RV. You will want to load the inverter items onto the inverter side and non inverter items on the other side. In a way this resolves the sub-panel issues. Also you only need 6/2 wire to make the round trip forward to the inverter and back to the main panel.

2812 Manual see p25