Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Travel Trailers: Roof repair
Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Posting Help and Support  |  Contact  

Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Travel Trailers

Open Roads Forum  >  Travel Trailers  >  General Q&A

 > Roof repair

Reply to Topic  |  Subscribe  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 2  
Next
BillM2

New York state

New Member

Joined: 08/06/2007

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 05/27/19 06:44pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have a 2005 28’ Fleetwod with roof issues. The rear two feet of the roof is beyond spongy. It feels as though just the membrane is there with no structure really underneath it.

Question: for I’ve seen video postings on how to redo the entire roof, but wondering if it can be done partially. I’d need to go the full width for the final 24” of so. How would the seam be handled, if so? Can a seam be sealed properly? The rest of the roof is solid.

If anyone’s done this, any advice?

Thanks!

trailer_newbe

Tucson

Full Member

Joined: 02/05/2018

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 05/27/19 08:04pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I think if it is that spongy the wood below the membrane is rotted and needs to be replaced first. After that you will likely need a whole new membrane roof.


2018 Jayco White Hawk 28RL

JIMNLIN

Oklahoma

Senior Member

Joined: 09/14/2003

View Profile



Posted: 05/27/19 08:59pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Don't cut the membrane and make another seam up there. Its just another source of leaks.
Do it right.
Remove all the screws in the cap/roof membrane molding.....remove screws on the drip rails both sides....other roof fixtures and roof jacks past the rotted area.....then roll the membrane past the area your going to replace.
Replace damaged wood......then replace it all with a good seal job.
Let google and youtube work for you on this project.


"good judgment comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgment" ............ Will Rogers

'03 2500 QC Dodge/Cummins HO 3.73 6 speed manual Jacobs Westach
'97 Park Avanue 28' 5er 11200 two slides

LarryJM

NoVa

Senior Member

Joined: 11/09/2007

View Profile



Posted: 05/28/19 04:58am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

JIMNLIN wrote:

Don't cut the membrane and make another seam up there. Its just another source of leaks.
Do it right.
Remove all the screws in the cap/roof membrane molding.....remove screws on the drip rails both sides....other roof fixtures and roof jacks past the rotted area.....then roll the membrane past the area your going to replace.
Replace damaged wood......then replace it all with a good seal job.
Let google and youtube work for you on this project.


While you might technically be right for a 15 year old unit that is is basically worthless I think if the rest of the roof and structure below is good repairing all the damage in that last 24" and sealing any new roof seam with 4 or 6" Eternabond would be the most cost effective repair.

Larry


2001 standard box 7.3L E-350 PSD Van with 4.10 rear and 2007 Holiday Rambler Aluma-Lite 8306S Been RV'ing since 1974.
RAINKAP INSTALL////ETERNABOND INSTALL


BillM2

New York state

New Member

Joined: 08/06/2007

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 05/28/19 05:34am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks for these replies! The wood below the membrane is rotted out. I could press down about an inch or more without any resistance. It’s like a trampoline.

JIMNLIN: So, if I’m understanding correctly, remove the side and rear bars that secure the roof, etc. But isn’t the rolled roofing attached to the structure preventing unrolling it past the rotten area? If so, what can I use to separate it from the sub material?

JIMNLIN

Oklahoma

Senior Member

Joined: 09/14/2003

View Profile



Posted: 05/28/19 07:09am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

You won't know this until you open things up.
When I had my part tire roof repair business we sometimes worked the membrane loose by pulling gently up and using wooden paint sticks shaped like a putty knife and plastic putty knives too work the membrane loose. Most of the time the membrane simply came loose with a bit of tugging up and back.
I will say every unit was different in terms of removal.
As I mentioned google and you tube can give you ideas on this type work.

Eternabond and other type tapes aren't permanent but will last for many years if the job was done properly. If you go that way be sure and use a self leveling sealant around the edges like the pros. Lots of you tubes for sealing tape.

BillM2

New York state

New Member

Joined: 08/06/2007

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 05/28/19 08:22am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Should I remove the entire side rails or just enough to work the roof? I know the rear has to come off. Would a heat gun on a low setting help release the membrane from the sub material?

The membrane is white so I’m assuming it’s EPDM?

And if the insulation is gone, what do you recommend to replace. Rigid or bat?

GrandpaKip

Flat Rock

Senior Member

Joined: 06/18/2013

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member

Offline
Posted: 05/28/19 08:34am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

To properly seal the repaired area, you are still going to need to get all the trim out of the way and be able to clean it. I would at least try to roll the membrane back at first. If successful, it saves the cost and hassle of getting new. And, if not stretched, it’ll fit right back.

Hey, it’s called Eternabond. Doesn’t that mean it lasts eternally? ;-)


Kip
2015 Skyline Dart 214RB
2018 Silverado Double Cab 4x4
Andersen Hitch

JIMNLIN

Oklahoma

Senior Member

Joined: 09/14/2003

View Profile



Posted: 05/28/19 07:35pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

BillM2 wrote:

Should I remove the entire side rails or just enough to work the roof? I know the rear has to come off. Would a heat gun on a low setting help release the membrane from the sub material?

The membrane is white so I’m assuming it’s EPDM?

And if the insulation is gone, what do you recommend to replace. Rigid or bat?

We always removed enough screws in the side rails to do the work.
Heat gun is a big help in removing sealant or soften the glue.

I prefer batt insulation myself. Seems to be quieter and doesn't leave gaps like rigid. However I have used rigid and filled the gaps with expanding foam.

BillM2

New York state

New Member

Joined: 08/06/2007

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 07/13/19 11:11am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

This is what I’m seeing going down the sides of my camper. I know I have to remove the awning, but are the screws underneath this rub rail looking thing?

[image]

https://i.imgur.com/w7iyQ9Hl.jpg

Reply to Topic  |  Subscribe  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 2  
Next

Open Roads Forum  >  Travel Trailers  >  General Q&A

 > Roof repair
Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Travel Trailers


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:

© 2019 CWI, Inc. © 2019 Good Sam Enterprises, LLC. All Rights Reserved. | Terms of Use | PRIVACY POLICY | YOUR PRIVACY RIGHTS