Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Tech Issues: solar disconnect switch
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BFL13

Victoria, BC

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Joined: 02/15/2006

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Posted: 06/01/19 07:55pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

wopachop wrote:

On day 3 and 4 it got up to 14.7 measured at the battery post. Isn't that too high and a sign that charge profile #2 isn't working right?


No. First the nominal AGM Vabs of 14.4 might be affected by it being temp adjusted, if it is lower than 77F out. Second, who says a few minutes at 14.7 is bad for your brand of AGMs? Probably doing them good!

What is not working right is the time at 14.x. You need nearly all day in daylight where it holds at that voltage, and it should be at the Vabs your batteries are specified for.

You need to know that Vabs spec first, before getting any charging equipment, so they will match.

You seem to be way too worried about too much time at 14.x, instead of what the battery spec says to do ?

It is clear that your AGMs died from under charging. Not enough time at Vabs mainly. No observation of when reaching 0.5a/100AH before dropping to Float voltage too.

With your new 6v Wets you can take it easier and just use your hydrometer to see if you are on track. If not, change your ways accordingly. Easy peasy. AGMs are not so easy. Eg, with Wets , you don't need the ammeter; you have the hydrometer.


1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
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wopachop

lb

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Joined: 11/17/2006

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Posted: 06/02/19 08:01pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Changed the solar controller to charge profile #1 for flooded batteries. Took out 46ah last night and this is what it did.

At 2:30pm today i disconnected the controller to see if it would reset and start charging again. Didnt really work.

Seems like a horrible controller. Charges for like 4 hours and shuts off till the next day.

[image]

BFL13

Victoria, BC

Senior Member

Joined: 02/15/2006

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Posted: 06/02/19 09:41pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Not clear what the set- up is there, but you can have a situation where the controller thinks it is doing the right thing by getting the battery to 14.x, but the battery is only at less than that. This would be from voltage drop on the controller to battery connection.

This leads to undercharging because the batteries actually never get to the high voltage set point the controller is set to.

Voltage drop is related to the amps on that path and the R of that path. High R is bad, such as with too-thin wire for its length, and loose connections.

Besides a better controller, you should check that controller to battery path ( pos and neg paths--check each one) or the same thing might happen with the new controller.

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