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kramer45011

Ohio

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Posted: 06/08/19 10:26am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

My hot water wasn’t getting hot. I realized in the morning I was out of propane. Filled. .Org tanks but the hot water heater won’t light now. Any suggestions.l??

downtheroad

Pacific Northwest

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Posted: 06/08/19 10:36am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Purge the line....
Light a stove burner or two, this will get the air out of the lines and get propane flowing to your water heater.

* This post was edited 06/08/19 10:46am by downtheroad *


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colliehauler

Mc Pherson KS USA

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Posted: 06/08/19 11:53am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Also if the line was not pressured and you opened the tank valve fast the overflow protection device can limit the flow.

Npdchief07

Hamilton, Oh

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Posted: 06/08/19 12:19pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I tried the running burners on the stove . They worked fine but not the hot water heater. It doesn't even sound like it's trying. If it was pressure ...what's the remedy?

downtheroad

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Posted: 06/08/19 12:29pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Might have "locked out" due to too many tries.
Depending on your unit...Try pushing the RESET button on the back of the heater.

EXAMPLE:

[image]

Old-Biscuit

Verde Valley

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Posted: 06/09/19 01:10am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Those reset buttons^^^^^^^^^^ are to reset the HIGH Temp T-stats nothing to do with 'lock out'
High temp t-stats trip at 170*F/manual reset
Left side 120V AC...electric element
Right side 12V DC...propane

'Lock out' happens when 3 attempt to light flame and prove it lit fail
'Lock out' will trigger the RED Fault Light on switch panel
Reset by turning ON/Off Switch OFF---wait 30 seconds then turn on

IF spark electrode is not 'firing' then it could be a 12V DC issue
The 12V DC set of t-stats are connected via a wire from top t-stat to bottom t-stat...they can burn into
Could be connection inside junction box on backside of WH Tank
Could be an issue with the circuit board on backside of WH Tank or mounted close by

So you need to test where you have DC and NOT have it
[image]



IF you do have 12V DC then.....
Keep trying to light water heater
LP System is only 0.4 psi....can take several attempts to get full flow to all appliances


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deltabravo

Spokane, WA

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Posted: 06/09/19 07:19am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Ditto on what Old Biscuit said, which is a very detailed and thorough post.


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kramer45011

Ohio

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Posted: 06/10/19 06:11am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The red DSI switch never comes on at all (since this started). I can’t even hear the hot water heater trying to ignite

Old-Biscuit

Verde Valley

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Posted: 06/10/19 12:49pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

kramer45011 wrote:

The red DSI switch never comes on at all (since this started). I can’t even hear the hot water heater trying to ignite


Then you have a DC Voltage issue

Get out the Voltmeter and start tracing the DC from On/Off Switch to gas valve.

Already posted 12V DC circuit so use it.

Npdchief07

Hamilton, Oh

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Posted: 06/17/19 02:58pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Is there a possibility it could be a fuse?

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