Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Hot Water Tanks with Anode Rods
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 > Hot Water Tanks with Anode Rods

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RobWNY

Jamestown, NY

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Posted: 06/16/19 11:08am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I don't know why this just came to mind during camping season but when winterizing, I've always drained the hot water tank, flushed it out and put it on bypass before putting anti-freeze in my system. So the tank remains empty while in storage. So what prevents the inside of the tank from rusting when there's no water in the tank? There has to be periods of time where humidity and condensation form in the winter months meaning there's droplets of water that form on the tank walls. I always put the Anode rod back in rather than leaving an open hole but does the Anode rod still attract ions when surrounded by air rather than water?

SidecarFlip

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Posted: 06/16/19 11:20am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Good question but I believe the tank is coated or plated internally. I do power rinse mine every spring. The anode rod flakes off and falls to the bottom.


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Posted: 06/16/19 12:26pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Is leaving the rod out for long periods a mistake? Maybe an outwears material on the hole to allow air circulation but no critters?

RobWNY

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Posted: 06/16/19 12:29pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I don't know what the proper way to do things is as far as whether to leave the anode rod in or out during the winter but I've always put it back in after flushing so I don't forget where I put it.

RLS7201

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Posted: 06/16/19 12:39pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Suburban water heaters use a porcelain-lined, steel tank.

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RobWNY

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Posted: 06/16/19 01:23pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I guess I'm confused then. Porcelain doesn't rust so what's the point of an anode rod if the tank is lined with porcelain? Is it in case the Porcelain breaks or the tank is somehow otherwise compromised?

fj12ryder

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Posted: 06/16/19 02:06pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

RobWNY wrote:

I guess I'm confused then. Porcelain doesn't rust so what's the point of an anode rod if the tank is lined with porcelain? Is it in case the Porcelain breaks or the tank is somehow otherwise compromised?
I always figured it was for the points where the water line fittings are attached to the tank.


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midnightsadie

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Posted: 06/16/19 02:38pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I pulled mine when new put in a quarter turn valve and a short spur nipple ,when done camping for the trip, I drain the tank ,and the holding tank, empty the poo tank. mine 13yrs old still making water hot.

Chris Bryant

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Posted: 06/16/19 03:54pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The tanks are sprayed and fired, then the flame cup is welded in. It’s this final weld that needs protection.
The tank corrodes because of the action of heating the water, not just being wet.


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MFL

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Posted: 06/16/19 04:19pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Here is my take Rob. Yes to bypass, no anti-freeze in WH. I flush twice a year, in Fall and again in Spring. In Spring, after adding bleach to fresh tank, flushing system, WH still by-passed, I now open WH by-pass, and add the bleach water from fresh tank to WH, allow to sit over night, flush WH, and drain everything. Now add fresh water to fresh tank, drain fresh tank. Refill fresh tank, run through all faucets, and fill WH. I'm now good for the season.

If I am not going to use the camper for a few weeks, I drain the water heater. By draining, not leaving heater full, it seems to greatly extend the life of my anode rods.

I always keep some water in fresh tank, during season, and the black tank also.

I do put teflon tape on the anode, and keep it installed over Winter.

If you can understand this, I hope it helps! [emoticon]

Jerry





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