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 > 2018 TT has been deemed Total Loss by insurance company

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valhalla360

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Posted: 06/19/19 05:32am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

ReneeG wrote:


Overflow to the ground? I read it as running water faucets from your tank using your pump, then when you need more water, refill.


The OP suggested an overflow outlet in the shower that leads to the ground as a solution.

Using the tanks and pump eliminates the need for this and avoids illegal dumping situation.


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ReneeG

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Posted: 06/19/19 08:22am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

valhalla360 wrote:

ReneeG wrote:


Overflow to the ground? I read it as running water faucets from your tank using your pump, then when you need more water, refill.


The OP suggested an overflow outlet in the shower that leads to the ground as a solution.

Using the tanks and pump eliminates the need for this and avoids illegal dumping situation.


Thank you.


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mgirardo

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Posted: 06/19/19 09:05am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

That is a shame about your camper. For the insurance for our current TT and our previous Motorhome, the policy included complete replacement for the first 5 years. If your policy has this too, is the insurance company responsible for finding and delivering the replacement? That might be worth asking your agent about.

As for the shower, it is a tough break. In our TT the bathroom is right next to the master bedroom, so we probably would have heard the water running. However, if the A/C was on, we probably wouldn't have noticed it.

Running off the pump is a good solution if you don't use much water, but for us, it would be a major pain. Even with a 500 gallon fresh water tank it would be a major pain. We use about 10,000 - 12,000 gallons of water a month at our sticks and bricks. I imagine we probably use 5,000 - 6,000 gallons a water per month at our seasonal site. Even with a 500 gallon fresh water tank, we'd be filling the tank 2 - 3 times per week. With our 40 gallon tank we'd be filling it several times a day.

I hope you are able to find a replacement for your beloved TT. I personally would not want to buy back that trailer. If water got into the walls, which it most likely did, it will not dry out easily without opening up the walls. If the insulation is wet, it will trap water.

Good luck!

-Michael


Michael Girardo
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myredracer

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Posted: 06/19/19 10:29am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Sorry to hear about what happened. Curious as to what coverage you'll get from the insurer? Full cost replacement, stated value or what? We've had an excellent policy for years but last year our local insur. co. changed underwriters and it looks like the coverage isn't as good so we need to check it closely and see what other options are out there. You'll never know you need it until you really need it...

DownTheAvenue wrote:

You know, that trailer is not really damaged. If one would open the belly and let it dry out, put in new insulation, and button it back up, it will be just fine. You should consider buying it back from the insurance company for salvage value.
I wonder about that too. But if water sits on the floor long enough, it gets wicked up into cabinetry and walls and if TT was level, it could be wet from front to back. Luan *could* delaminate if not dried out pdq. Subfloor could be pretty wet if water traveled between the sheet flooring and subfloor. Mold could happen if not dried out fast & thoroughly. At least it was "only" grey water.

Did the insurance co. do a detailed and inspection using a moisture meter and what criteria did they use to write it off? Hard to know the extent of damage without seeing it in person?

This short video talks about a total loss in a FW after a toilet that overflowed for 2 hours. Black water would be worse than grey though.

Our toilet overflowed last summer during the night due to a sticking ball valve seal. Mopped it all up as fast as possible, opened all the doors and windows, ran the two roof fans full blast, turned the furnace on and then used a blow dryer to dry out the bottom of the wall and cabinet paneling. Wasn't long before the humidity level came way down using the hydrometer we have. Then I got under the TT in the CG and pulled down 1/2 the coroplast and found the insulation was saturated and pulled it all out. Got a roll of batt insulation at the local Ace hardware. Luckily, the TT was pointing slightly downhill and to the left so water only travelled to one corner. All fixed up and back in business in one day at the CG...

Spoke to our insurance co. and they wanted to send out someone with a moisture meter. We decided since I replaced the insulation quickly and nothing was water damaged to just let it go. We replaced the problematic Thetford toilet with a Dometic 310. The Thetford also had the foot valve fail twice but noticed it before the tank overflowed. Thetford toilets are cheap junk...

They oughta put drain holes in a few spots in the floors!! [emoticon]

BTW, what happens to RVs like this that are written off?


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brianosaur

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Posted: 06/19/19 07:04pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

OP here finally getting back to the topic.

I think that using fresh tank pump only is a great solution.
HOWEVER, after looking online at many new TT there are plenty of them that have a fresh tank LARGER than the grey tank. Some are 2x the size! That obviously would not be a solution then. So if the fresh is less than the grey - that is a no brainer.

After reading that it would be illegal to dump waste (tub) water on the ground, just like emptying grey tanks, by using an overflow drain makes sense that manufacturers wont install them. So DIY mod it is!



Now about the TT itself and keeping it as a salvage rv as some suggested...

We went to see it Saturday. Underbelly opened and dry, insulation out. Lano floor peeled back a by entry door and under cabinet sink.

Insurance was dragging their feet so body shop only would do mitigation (stop loss) damage prevention. That means drying it out.

It was still damp. I stuck my arm as far as I could under the linoleum and the plywood was damp. Black mold dots already forming on a little area of the ply.

Shop recommended removing the cabinets. The fridge & furnace area. The bunks and pretty much pulling EVERYTHING out and opening the walls. Then remove the entire lano floor. Dry it out. Spray bleach. Then put it back together.

Insurance wouldn't pay for that. They were complaining about the work that was alredy done and wouldn't approve further stop-loss work. Thus, they declared a total loss.

They also wished to prevent FUTURE damage after all repairs were completed - just in case some mold was missed and I put in another claim down the road.

Those here suggesting drying it out with a fan, or using a shop vac, have no idea how extensive all the water was. Hours of running water everywhere.

Yes, the TT would be a great salvage for someone willing to do all the work.
I *could* even do it myself as I am a home improvement contractor.

However, do I want to? Do I want to spend weeks of the little free time I do have doing this big project? Hell NO! There goes my summer. My time with family. My time camping.

Dont care what they give me for it, and the chance that it might still mold in the future, is 100% NOT worth it to me.

Dont have the time, desire, gumption, or patience to deal with all that BS, hoping that it all *may* go smoothly and work out in the end.

Skarew that. RVs are supposed to be used to relax, not add stress.

I am going to take the money an run.

BillyBob Jim

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Posted: 06/19/19 07:26pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

brianosaur wrote:




Now about the TT itself and keeping it as a salvage rv as some suggested...

We went to see it Saturday. Underbelly opened and dry, insulation out. Lano floor peeled back a by entry door and under cabinet sink.

Insurance was dragging their feet so body shop only would do mitigation (stop loss) damage prevention. That means drying it out.

It was still damp. I stuck my arm as far as I could under the linoleum and the plywood was damp. Black mold dots already forming on a little area of the ply.

Shop recommended removing the cabinets. The fridge & furnace area. The bunks and pretty much pulling EVERYTHING out and opening the walls.
I am going to take the money an run.


Relax, the shop does not have a clue because you cannot "open the walls" on a trailer with laminated sidewalls, and a lot of people on these RV boards are also clueless suggesting it did no damage. The water wicked up the luan layers in the sidewalls and any other areas of wood or fake wood touching the floor. I would take the money an run also.

brianosaur

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Posted: 06/19/19 07:29pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

BillyBob Jim wrote:

brianosaur wrote:




Now about the TT itself and keeping it as a salvage rv as some suggested...

We went to see it Saturday. Underbelly opened and dry, insulation out. Lano floor peeled back a by entry door and under cabinet sink.

Insurance was dragging their feet so body shop only would do mitigation (stop loss) damage prevention. That means drying it out.

It was still damp. I stuck my arm as far as I could under the linoleum and the plywood was damp. Black mold dots already forming on a little area of the ply.

Shop recommended removing the cabinets. The fridge & furnace area. The bunks and pretty much pulling EVERYTHING out and opening the walls.
I am going to take the money an run.


Relax, the shop does not have a clue because you cannot "open the walls" on a trailer with laminated sidewalls, and a lot of people on these RV boards are also clueless suggesting it did no damage. The water wicked up the luan layers in the sidewalls and any other areas of wood or fake wood touching the floor. I would take the money an run also.


Pulling back/removing the interior luan a few inches off the floor is what they suggested. Of course you can open the interior. Its luan on aluminum frame.

...prob have to deal with the rigid foam too then as its glued to that.

Oh, yeah I'm just waiting for the cabinets to swell and the contact paper finish to peel off.

See, the can of worms keeps opening, right?

myredracer

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Posted: 06/19/19 07:42pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

brianosaur wrote:



Pulling back/removing the interior luan a few inches off the floor is what they suggested. Of course you can open the interior. Its luan on aluminum frame.

...prob have to deal with the rigid foam too then as its glued to that.

Oh, yeah I'm just waiting for the cabinets to swell and the contact paper finish to peel off.

See, the can of worms keeps opening, right?
And it doesn't help that the insulation they use in the walls is open cell type that absorbs moisture and will allow it to wick upwards.

If it's that bad, it's a can of worms that could go on an on. Taking the $$ and moving on seems to be a good idea.

valhalla360

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Posted: 06/20/19 06:31am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

mgirardo wrote:


Running off the pump is a good solution if you don't use much water, but for us, it would be a major pain. Even with a 500 gallon fresh water tank it would be a major pain. We use about 10,000 - 12,000 gallons of water a month at our sticks and bricks. I imagine we probably use 5,000 - 6,000 gallons a water per month at our seasonal site. Even with a 500 gallon fresh water tank, we'd be filling the tank 2 - 3 times per week. With our 40 gallon tank we'd be filling it several times a day.


Not sure what you are doing at the house but assuming 2 - 20gal showers and 20 gal for dishes and minor other uses per day...that works out to around 900gal per month in the RV.

That's pretty heavy water usage by RVing standards.

Also, with a 100 gallons total waste tanks (probably a high estimate with only 40gal fresh water), your 6,000gal assumption would have you going out to drain the waste tanks twice a day anyway (more often if most is going into a one waste tank). Of course if you leave your waste valves open, you wouldn't fill the waste tanks in any case.

This also doesn't help if a fresh water line splits and is slowly spitting out water for hours or days while hidden inside a wall.

valhalla360

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Posted: 06/20/19 06:33am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

brianosaur wrote:

OP here finally getting back to the topic.

I think that using fresh tank pump only is a great solution.
HOWEVER, after looking online at many new TT there are plenty of them that have a fresh tank LARGER than the grey tank. Some are 2x the size! That obviously would not be a solution then. So if the fresh is less than the grey - that is a no brainer.


Even at 2x the size, it reduces the probability of overflow:
- Your fresh tank won't always be full in the event of an issue. If it's half full, you solved the problem.
- The other major advantage of using the pump is that you can hear the pump. The ideal solution is not to be able to ignore the problem but to bring it to your attention before it causes damage.

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