Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Interesting delam issue - revised 6-24, more pics
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 > Interesting delam issue - revised 6-24, more pics

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Kayteg1

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Posted: 06/22/19 10:09am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I think calling manufacturer for recommendation is the best start.
I had such situation on my Fleetwood, but it had roof damage and PO slap Eternabond instead of repairing it.
So when front wood members started to rot, the siding was just hanging hold by edges trim and actually after some rain I had water collecting there before I could get to repair it.
Amazingly there were only few 1.5x1.5 wood members that hold the floor (I slept on it and it hold??) and big spaces filled up with Styrofoam. So the glue doesn't have much to hold to and even in stored TC you might have some condensation.
Still the situation on my Fleetwood took 15 years and actual leak to develop the damage, so poor craftsmanship on Eagle Cap comes to mind.





3 tons

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Posted: 06/22/19 07:37pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

OP??

Boatycall

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Posted: 06/22/19 09:28pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

3 tons wrote:

OP??

Oh, ya, sorry, one piece from the roof, wrapped all the way over the nose, under the bunk, and down the front bulkhead.


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NRALIFR

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Posted: 06/23/19 05:40am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Grit dog wrote:

I think anev942 has the best idear.
I think it would be hard to ensure enough adhesive coverage from a few very small strategically placed holes to endure it stays up.
I “think” it’s heavy plywood sheeting but I’d verify that and use some trim strips. Push it back in place like you’re thinking and sink a bunch of screws in it.
Something like the pic he showed or possibly nice looking washer and screws. Stainless or coated and make it look like it supposed to be ther.



I don’t think re-glueing is going to work either. The one piece design has probably contributed to causing the delamination, and glue alone isn’t going to be able to fix it. That large panel under the bunk, with no windows or other mechanically attached fixtures to help hold it in place, plus gravity working on it, was just a matter of time before it came loose. The way it wraps around the edges may have caused sheer and buckling stresses to be transferred to that area as the camper twists. The thickness and weight of it is probably more than the filon/luan skin on my camper. I wonder if there is a luan backing on that one piece section at all? Knowing what’s on the backside would be critical to making an adhesive-only repair.

Is the framing in that area wood or aluminum?

If wood, I would try to find the structural members under the bunk, and fasten 5-6 of those flat trim moldings underneath the full width of the bunk. Choose your screw length so you get as much penetration as possible.

If it’s aluminum, you may have to consider some other type of fastener, like a blind rivet.

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* This post was edited 06/23/19 07:02am by NRALIFR *


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bighatnohorse

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Posted: 06/23/19 08:09am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Boatycall wrote:


Why would it have delam'd?


"Heat" is the solvent for adhesive (including epoxy) - assuming that it was glued to begin with.

3 tons

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Posted: 06/23/19 09:56am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Well since it is of a full one piece fiberglass cap then your vintage EC (what year??).uses no filon whatsoever - even the sidewalls are f/g. (Adventurer changed to less costlier filon build process in later years). Removing and replacing the front cap (even were you to have one built) would not be the best or viable option, since the removal process alone will cause it considerable damage...However, IMO It may be possible to do a relatively non-invasive re-glue, but you’ll first need to do a thorough eval (via water testing) to determine IF this was caused by water intrusion (and the possibility of mold) else the issue will be recurring...Mine is of the same construction method so I’ll send you a PM...

3 tons

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Posted: 06/23/19 05:46pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Eagle cap might be able to tell you where the structural cross members are located. Then do Gritdogs method.


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GeoBoy

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Posted: 06/23/19 08:32pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Posted: 07/16/18 10:35am Link | Quote | Print | Notify Moderator
I own a 2013 EC 950 that was actually manufactured in late 2012.

I had the entire front cap delaminate from the bottom ( the part just over the cab ). They completely removed the cap and replaced it at the factory. They also did some modifications for me gratis for my inconvenience.

My grey water and black water tanks also sit on the same styrofoam but not as loose as the video you took.

I've taken that camper all over the country, paved and dirt roads and have not had any tank or plumbing issues.

Now had I noticed that BEFORE I purchased the camper I would have the same concern as you. You might want to call EC and hear their explanation for their install.
This was posted by Egrant.

GeoBoy

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Posted: 06/23/19 08:34pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Posted: 07/16/18 10:35am Link | Quote | Print | Notify Moderator
I own a 2013 EC 950 that was actually manufactured in late 2012.

I had the entire front cap delaminate from the bottom ( the part just over the cab ). They completely removed the cap and replaced it at the factory. They also did some modifications for me gratis for my inconvenience.

My grey water and black water tanks also sit on the same styrofoam but not as loose as the video you took.

I've taken that camper all over the country, paved and dirt roads and have not had any tank or plumbing issues.

Now had I noticed that BEFORE I purchased the camper I would have the same concern as you. You might want to call EC and hear their explanation for their install.
This was posted by Egarant.

Boatycall

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Posted: 06/24/19 12:39pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Sorry, I see where I didn't put enough details - 2012, model is 1160. I have owned it almost since new, although technically I am second owner, but only by 6 months.

I called Brad at Adventure, he's sending me the structural drawings for the bunk, and suggested I remove the mattress and carpet, then run a hole-saw from the top down, then squirt full of adhesive, and compress the way I was thinking originally. He said he's also going to find out what adhesive they use on the production line. I was thinking a couple tubes of Liquid Nail.

More pictures, but honestly, it's pretty much impossible to see anything other than I haven't washed the bugs off yet from the last trip.

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