Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Towing: Weight Distributing Hitch BENT
Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Posting Help and Support  |  Contact  

Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Towing

Open Roads Forum  >  Towing

 > Weight Distributing Hitch BENT

Reply to Topic  |  Subscribe  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 4  
Prev  |  Next
DennyCrane

Surrey, BC, Canada

New Member

Joined: 07/01/2019

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 07/02/19 07:55pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

JRscooby wrote:

When I look at the pic I see near the small ball a mark in the bent plate. Bet if you look at tongue of trailer you will have a matching mark.
I didn't even notice those marks; good catch! Here is a closeup:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/4XqnMhpxbXwL8w9A6

There's some rust, but some parts of it look fresh. I do store it inside when not in use. Possible I got it like that, but more than likely it was me. That said, I see no mark on my hitch. I tried to line it up to see what where it might be hit...I see a rust spot on the trailer coupler that lines up, which I guess could be it. I checked the sway bar and see no marks on there either.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/iQ8BKnGwxZ3tnkJ26

JRscooby wrote:

At some point cutting the trailer to the right side you jackknifed to tight...
Got it - thanks

DennyCrane

Surrey, BC, Canada

New Member

Joined: 07/01/2019

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 07/02/19 08:00pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

newman fulltimer wrote:

You had the anti sway to tight took a sharp right turn and twisted the ball on the anti sway
Wow, that's crazy how it could bend the metal plate like that. How tight is too tight? I usually spin it until it stops spinning easily, and then give it maybe half of another turn. I guess I'll have to remove it before any sharp turn (previously I had just read that it was important for backing up).

Lynnmor

Red Lion

Senior Member

Joined: 07/16/2011

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member


Posted: 07/03/19 06:48am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

DennyCrane wrote:

newman fulltimer wrote:

You had the anti sway to tight took a sharp right turn and twisted the ball on the anti sway
Wow, that's crazy how it could bend the metal plate like that. How tight is too tight? I usually spin it until it stops spinning easily, and then give it maybe half of another turn. I guess I'll have to remove it before any sharp turn (previously I had just read that it was important for backing up).


You need to read the instructions. You tighten the handle, it only needs to be tight enough that it won't move. You adjust the amount of friction control with the bolt and then leave it alone after it is adjusted properly. There is no need to need to remove it unless backing up at a sharp angle.

I do believe that the vast majority of the friction type bars are never adjusted or used properly.





pitch

NY

Senior Member

Joined: 06/08/2005

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member

Offline
Posted: 07/03/19 07:48am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Boomerweps wrote:

I'm wondering if you might straighten that out (mostly) with the ball removed and using a large hydraulic press. At least to a useable state.


No way would I attempt to fix that.
You have a light trailer, you do not need the Cadillac of WDH's
Harbor Freight has a 10k for $209.00

JRscooby

Indepmo

Senior Member

Joined: 06/10/2019

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 07/03/19 08:18am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

pitch wrote:

Boomerweps wrote:

I'm wondering if you might straighten that out (mostly) with the ball removed and using a large hydraulic press. At least to a useable state.


No way would I attempt to fix that.
You have a light trailer, you do not need the Cadillac of WDH's
Harbor Freight has a 10k for $209.00


If it was mine I would of fixed it in less time than it would take me to type the OP...
Good to know your limits.

DennyCrane

Surrey, BC, Canada

New Member

Joined: 07/01/2019

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 07/03/19 08:27am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Lynnmor wrote:

DennyCrane wrote:

newman fulltimer wrote:

You had the anti sway to tight took a sharp right turn and twisted the ball on the anti sway
Wow, that's crazy how it could bend the metal plate like that. How tight is too tight? I usually spin it until it stops spinning easily, and then give it maybe half of another turn. I guess I'll have to remove it before any sharp turn (previously I had just read that it was important for backing up).


You need to read the instructions. You tighten the handle, it only needs to be tight enough that it won't move. You adjust the amount of friction control with the bolt and then leave it alone after it is adjusted properly. There is no need to need to remove it unless backing up at a sharp angle.

I do believe that the vast majority of the friction type bars are never adjusted or used properly.
I read them thoroughly; several times. They were not very detailed at all. Acxording to what I read the bolt was only if you needed more friction. What you're saying makes sense though.

TKW

Vancouver, BC Canada

Senior Member

Joined: 05/09/2003

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 07/03/19 04:00pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The WDH in pictures looks flimsy comparing to those with built-in anti sway feature, e.g. Equal-i-zer or Reese Dual Cam. If you walk around some CG and you'll see what I meant. The hitch head of the makes I mentioned are made from heavy castings, not fabricated mild steel like the one you have.

If I were you, I'd upgrade to one of these WDH with built-in anti-sway control. I have used both of them and the towing experience is night & day. Most importantly, you don't have to unhook the anti-sway bar to back up.


2002 Chevy 1500HD Crew Cab, 6.0l
2013 Timber Ridge 240RBS
Prodigy Brake Controller

DennyCrane

Surrey, BC, Canada

New Member

Joined: 07/01/2019

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 07/03/19 04:04pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks. I have an appointment at a hitch shop on July 13th. They've quoted Round Bar for $470 + tax; Trunnion for $570 + tax; and Internal Sway starting at $720 + tax (Canadian). I may just consider the built in sway for that reason. Or I may just stop using sway control.

myredracer

Langley B.C.

Senior Member

Joined: 04/27/2013

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 07/04/19 10:09am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

DennyCrane wrote:

Thanks. I have an appointment at a hitch shop on July 13th. They've quoted Round Bar for $470 + tax; Trunnion for $570 + tax; and Internal Sway starting at $720 + tax (Canadian). I may just consider the built in sway for that reason. Or I may just stop using sway control.
I see you're over in Surrey. We're in Langley. We have a mailbox in Blaine and buy stuff regularly on the internet and get it shipped there. BIG savings that way. Could check ebay, Amazon and some of the RV parts vendors. The Pac hwy truck crossing is close by and easy to cross. We have Nexus passes and avoid the regular lineups but we camp mostly in the US.

Another option is Cl. For ex., there's a WDH like yours, less snap-up brackets in Surrey for $75 and a 4 pt Equal-i-zer for $525. No idea if ratings work for you tho. Also a few choices on FB marketplace.

Integral sway control would be a good upgrade along with trunnion bars. Not sure why you'd need to go to a hitch shop?


Gil, Deb & Dougal a 15 year old Springer Spaniel
2014 KZ Spree 262RKS, Reese DC WDH, shocks and Endurance LRE tires
2012 GMC Sierra 2500HD crew cab, Bilstein shocks, heavy duty trailering option


DennyCrane

Surrey, BC, Canada

New Member

Joined: 07/01/2019

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 07/04/19 10:14am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Yes, I'm in Cloverdale. Appointment with a hitch shop in Langley. I also have Nexus and a US mailbox in Blaine. Just got back from 11 days down the Oregon coast.

My reasons for the hitch shop are:
-to ensure I'm getting the properly rated hitch. I've read that it's not good to overdo it or underdo it. I assumed to be conservative I'd get a higher rated hitch than I needed, but I've read lots of conflicting info online.
-to have them install the brackets on the trailer. Unless I can use my old brackets with the new hitch? I've heard they have to be adjusted exact.

Am I over thinking it?

Reply to Topic  |  Subscribe  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 4  
Prev  |  Next

Open Roads Forum  >  Towing

 > Weight Distributing Hitch BENT
Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Towing


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:

© 2019 CWI, Inc. © 2019 Good Sam Enterprises, LLC. All Rights Reserved. | Terms of Use | PRIVACY POLICY | YOUR PRIVACY RIGHTS