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Storing in shop/garage - config, utils, connections, etc.?

twvette
Explorer
Explorer
About to move forward with large shop to store hauler in as well as the toy's, cars, work area etc.

Just trying to figure out what I will miss if don't do it during construction. Never built one so figured best to get some input ...

Here is some info:

- It is going to be metal building about 65 deep by 42 wide in back yard behind fence. Will probably change from RV gate to large sliding gate or maybe just add another RV gate.
- Two 16' wide by 14' tall doors
- Concrete floor and driveway
- Air conditioned is not in the budget so will have to do without

Some thoughts/questions:

- The 65' deep is so can keep truck attached or have rear door access even with a '43ft rig. This barely fits in yard depth wise so open to other configuration or wider rather than deep if have not found the extra length useful.
- Will have it wired up for 50A and for a welder if ever get into that along with other 110V outlets. Lights too. Not sure of anything specific to consider.
- Does an area for working, welding, etc. really best to be separate with walls or do curtains, etc. work well to keep the rest of garage fairly clean?
- What about RV dump? Just do it to street in front of house? I am on septic. Shop will be downhill of septic so would have to do pump to push up hill if run it to the shop. Not sure if practical to run it into shop so could keep in shop for guests etc. plugged in.
- In general does it make sense to have rig in shop for guests or really need to pull it out so not in enclosed building (can always open big doors too)
- Not sure how much will miss water if don't run it or just do a single connection from garden hose from house or similar.
- Anyone ever put solar on roof of metal building? Thinking of adding solar to house anyways so not sure if on shop would be better alternative or just do on the house.

Thanks for any input as trying to get it right first time but also on a budget ...
- '16 Fuzion Chrome 420 (Previous: Weekend Warrior '05 LE3105 and '06 CL40005)
- '15 RAM 3500 SRW 4x4 Aisin Crew (Previous:'05 Dodge 2500)
- '17 Maverick X3 RS (Previous: '08 RZR 800, '13 XP 900, RC51 powered RZR, Hayabusa powered RZR)
9 REPLIES 9

Blackdiamond
Explorer
Explorer
You are on the right track. I would want water in the shop RV or not, just for cleaning and ease of use.

Go to Garage Journal forums and ask your questions there are more experts there.
03' Fleetwood Southwind 32VS
Enclosed Trailer hauling the toys
05 525 EXC KTM
15' FE350s Husqvarna/KTM
07 Rhino, long travel, 4 seater

SidecarFlip
Explorer
Explorer
Floor drains seem to be a touchy subject these days. I have them in both my bays. I did it on the sly.
2015 Backpack SS1500
1997 Ford 7.3 OBS 4x4 CC LB

neschultz
Explorer
Explorer
We did this on a smaller scale (30 * 40) a few years ago and included a small full bath and septic dump for our TT. We built it before our house (and lived in the TT inside it for 4 months while finishing the house) so it includes the well pump. The county allowed us to add a second septic tank behind it with a pump that goes to our main septic tank. We figure it will be at least 10 years before it needs to be pumped out.

I could not talk them into allowing us to include a drain in the floor. We were also told that no one could stay in it after we got house occupancy permission.

It is open with exception of the bathroom. Include some 220 volt outlets. I use them for a 220 volt space heater that can be put where itโ€™s needed. I also later added a 220 volt ac window unit thru the wall that wonโ€™t cool the whole place but does knock the temperature and humidity down to tolerable levels.
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SidecarFlip
Explorer
Explorer
Kept my RV inside my shop / garage / farm maintainence building for years now. Shop is air conditioned and has it's own 200 amp service and I have a 50 amp RV plug next to the unit.

The last indefinitely when kept out of the weather. Last one I had (and sold) was 15 years old and looked new, had no leaks and nice thing about keeping them inside, they are ready to go quickly.

Winters are tough here and my RV is snug as a bug in a rug inside with my pickup truck.

Have my own dump station too and water hookup if I require water.

In the winter, when I'm working on farm tractors, I use the RV to make coffee and keep the fridge running to keep my creamer and lunch meat cold so I can make a sandwich and have a cold pop or cup of coffee without going in the house.

My shop also has a bathroom and PEX in floor heat.
2015 Backpack SS1500
1997 Ford 7.3 OBS 4x4 CC LB

twvette
Explorer
Explorer
Great stuff ... keep it coming ...

Was thinking might be a code thing putting dump in garage too. Maybe even put it just outside a wall and then just add a port through wall to connect the dump line through but not sure on that either. Another small septic might be practical too. Not sure if there are any "supersized" macerator pumps to pump uphill a little (probably only a few feet elevation change but about 120ft run, then just bury sleeve for hose or similar as a sump pump system seems pricey. Not sure to what extent people have tested the standard RV macerator pumps as an option to avoid the dump in general in a simialr situation as mine.

Luckily my electrical box is on same size as shop and has a lot of room and amperage left in it. However the septic is on other side. I think I have to get rig back to septic cleanouts but would need another driveway, gate, and a bit trickier backup situation but a potential option (seems worth it to just bring line to front street instead but not sure yet).

I was gonna do wider vs. long but then also kinda get into situation where fence gate needs to be really big as my front fence is not too far off the shop front so trying to balance that too or maybe move fence.

Wish I could do AC but the monthly bill would be outrageous. Just glad to get rig out of the sun and dust as even being only two years old it has taken its toll already. Was thinking of maybe some good solar fans to at least keep it from being oven inside. Will insulate it but not so confident this will help much in AZ sun. Biggest benefit as so big will shade a portion of my house hottest part of day LOL.

Great idea on the drains!!! Washing my rig, car, etc under a cover is something I am considering. Might just do a roof extension on one side and thus a "car port" for this but maybe washing inside shop should be considered.

Good to hear in Maricopa that the shop is keeping the rig a little cooler!
- '16 Fuzion Chrome 420 (Previous: Weekend Warrior '05 LE3105 and '06 CL40005)
- '15 RAM 3500 SRW 4x4 Aisin Crew (Previous:'05 Dodge 2500)
- '17 Maverick X3 RS (Previous: '08 RZR 800, '13 XP 900, RC51 powered RZR, Hayabusa powered RZR)

CA_Traveler
Explorer III
Explorer III
I have a friend in Maricopa county near 101 that has a large metal building in his fenced back yard. It's open at both ends and his MH is about 15 degrees cooler than than the air. And there are various other toys in the building. He has lights, several 120V plugs 50A RV plugs with meters. Some snowbird friends stay there on and off. I bring my rig over to work on it and of course always hand him some cash not that he ever asks. Everyone has the option of using their own A/Cs.

He has a separate locked workshop with swamp cooler. All of this has evolved over the years. He ran water and has a computer which I believe is on a LAN cable to the house. In his front driveway he has a sewer drain that somehow became a RV dump. Sure not as convenient but it works well. I dumped once, moved to the back, tilted the rig away from the valves and replaced them w/o a drop spilled.

Just suggesting that you think ahead and plan what's right for you over time. Things like installing empty oonduit lines. But excellent start.
2009 Holiday Rambler 42' Scepter with ISL 400 Cummins
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Bob

4aSong
Explorer
Explorer
We built our RV garage some 5 years ago and overall have been very satisfied with the finished product. Our is nowhere near the size you are planning as our was a drive thru 24 x 36 garage. I have noted in RED some items to consider.

- It is going to be metal building about 65 deep by 42 wide in back yard behind fence. Will probably change from RV gate to large sliding gate or maybe just add another RV gate.
- Two 16' wide by 14' tall doors
- Concrete floor and driveway
- Air conditioned is not in the budget so will have to do without. Being in Arizona (Phoenix) you may want to reconsider A/C. as it will be cheaper to install it during construction than later.

Some thoughts/questions:

- The 65' deep is so can keep truck attached or have rear door access even with a '43ft rig. This barely fits in yard depth wise so open to other configuration or wider rather than deep if have not found the extra length useful.
- Will have it wired up for 50A and for a welder if ever get into that along with other 110V outlets. Lights too. Not sure of anything specific to consider.Consider both 110/220 and add outlets for future needs. You never have enough outlets.
- Does an area for working, welding, etc. really best to be separate with walls or do curtains, etc. work well to keep the rest of garage fairly clean? we dont have a separate area. overall the garage stays relatively clean even when I have other projects going on.
- What about RV dump? Just do it to street in front of house? I am on septic. Shop will be downhill of septic so would have to do pump to push up hill if run it to the shop. Not sure if practical to run it into shop so could keep in shop for guests etc. plugged in.
- In general does it make sense to have rig in shop for guests or really need to pull it out so not in enclosed building (can always open big doors too) We have had guests stay in the RV while in the garage as well as have used it when out of garage.
- Not sure how much will miss water if don't run it or just do a single connection from garden hose from house or similar. We have a water source within 30' of garage so did not add a new line.
- Anyone ever put solar on roof of metal building? Thinking of adding solar to house anyways so not sure if on shop would be better alternative or just do on the house.

Thanks for any input as trying to get it right first time but also on a budget ...

A requirement when we built ours was to be able to have all slides open and awing open when in garage. In addition room for both truck & trailer.
Consider Air lines placed throughout so you have access to compressed air for the shop.
Consider drains so when washing indoors water has a place to go.


This is my 2cents worth and i'm sure others will chime in with their recommendations. ๐Ÿ™‚
M & N

Tundra TRD V8 4x4 w/Leer Shell
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JAC1982
Explorer
Explorer
Make sure your area will allow you to do a drain/dump in your garage if you decide to go that route. We are building our building too right now and the county will not allow it, despite us being on septic. I think they're worried about people draining stuff into the storm water ditches that run in the front or something... who knows, stupid, but it is what it is. But we were looking at homes in Boise last year and there were quite a few attached RV garages that had a dump in the garage. Those were all on city sewer systems and were added at time of home construction though so maybe that's the difference. That was a nice selling feature when we were looking. So, I think if you can do it without it costing a crazy amount, it would be a nice thing to have for both you and any future owners.

We are running 30A into ours, thankfully the electrical box and a 30A outlet are already on that side of the house so we just have to run it from there. This is less of an issue for you in AZ, but we are also running a gas line so we can have a heater inside. We had the line put in when installing landscaping and a fire pit so we only have to run it another 20' or so to get it into the building. No AC either but ours is stick frame with siding etc., so eventually we plan on adding insulation/drywall which should help in the summer. It made a big difference in our attached garage in terms of keeping it warmer in winter and cooler in summer.

Ours is also not as large as yours, 30x50 for us as that's the max size our HOA will allow. I think I'd rather have more width than length if you've got the room though, since if it's wide, there's less chance of stuff accumulating in front of other stuff, making it hard to get it out. Since we are more limited on size, we at least made sure we could fit the truck and trailer hooked up in front of the building, but behind our fence, so we could hook it up the night before a trip but not have it sitting in front of the house or in the main driveway.
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Lwiddis
Explorer
Explorer
โ€œJust do it to street in front of house? I am on septic.โ€ Dump on the street? You are kidding.

โ€œAnyone ever put solar on roof of metal building?โ€ Solar is the easy way to vent the building and keep the RV batteries full.
Winnebago 2101DS TT & 2022 Chevy Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71, WindyNation 300 watt solar-Lossigy 200 AH Lithium battery. Prefer boondocking, USFS, COE, BLM, NPS, TVA, state camps. Bicyclist. 14 yr. Army -11B40 then 11A - (MOS 1542 & 1560) IOBC & IOAC grad