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Gravel rv pad?

suprz
Explorer
Explorer
How deep would a gravel RV pad need to be for a 32ft long X 10ft wide pad for my 14000 lbs Rv
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19 REPLIES 19

colliehauler
Explorer
Explorer
Pinesman the cost of 3 yards of concrete was only $300. I built the forms and friends helped when I poured the concrete. I had to build a stem wall on one side and did a monopour. Gravel would not have been much cheaper. I then ordered a Carolina Carport and had a level surface to install with solid anchor points.

pinesman
Explorer
Explorer
My 5th wheel is 31' long but I made the level part of my packed gravel pad large enough to accommodate a 36' x 18' carport. Due to the contours of my land, on one end the gravel is probably 18" deep tapered back to nothing on the other end. The sides and high end are tapered down to ground level. I would rather spend the majority of my money putting a roof over the top rather than putting concrete below the trailer

sayoung
Explorer
Explorer
suprz wrote:
How deep would a gravel RV pad need to be for a 32ft long X 10ft wide pad for my 14000 lbs Rv

You might to go longer now if you can and maybe 12 or wider. Our concrete o
Pad is 20x45, maybe a bigger rig someday.
If you have to go gravel, in my area iron ore gravel is used then maybe milling or limestone topi . Remember, concrete is pretty permenant & low maintinance

colliehauler
Explorer
Explorer
I've just always poured a concrete pad and was done with it. A person would only have to put in a couple of strips of concrete for the tires to cut down cost and put gravel in between for aesthetics.

CFerguson
Explorer
Explorer
JRscooby wrote:


Hauling it for decades, it's all "gravel". Most make the mistake of using gravel that has the fines screened out. Clean rock, without the dust and other fines will constantly shift, never compact. It will also let water drain thru, soaking the sub-grade, and shade it so it is slow to dry.

^^^This^^^.
Just a consumer, but if I ever use gravel for anything other than drainage, I use Crusher Run (all sizes, including dust). Has worked for me for decades.

JRscooby
Explorer II
Explorer II
Dave H M wrote:
Listen to Rob. Gravel is not the way to go.

Maybe everyone just calls any kind of crushed rock "gravel" i don't know.


Hauling it for decades, it's all "gravel". Most make the mistake of using gravel that has the fines screened out. Clean rock, without the dust and other fines will constantly shift, never compact. It will also let water drain thru, soaking the sub-grade, and shade it so it is slow to dry.

Dave_H_M
Explorer
Explorer
Listen to Rob. Gravel is not the way to go.

Maybe everyone just calls any kind of crushed rock "gravel" i don't know.

JRscooby
Explorer II
Explorer II
RV parking pad? Shoot grade,scrape sod off. Stack timbers on 3 sides to keep rock in place. Put 6-8 inches of 2 inch clean down. (Left over from another job). Then fill to level with at least 4 inches of used shoulder rock (Was paid to haul away from a widening job) Made sure I was level side to side, but front/back slopes enough to drain. Scattered enough half inch clean over so the dust does not track in, but not enough to roll under tires.
Then I bolted a 4X4 and a 2X4 to a pair of mud flaps, and laid then where I want the tires. The boards are spaced so I back over the 2X, and against the 4X, she's chocked.
Built the pad in mid '90s, and the only thing I have done is add to the thin spread of gravel between the pad and pad I park the TV on. Gravel drive is not legal, so I just use enough to not spin on wet grass. Just mow it short a few days before leave.

spoon059
Explorer II
Explorer II
I got recycled asphalt millings, about 4 inches deep and compacted by driving my diesel truck over it a couple times, overlapping. It drains well, packs well and is doing a great job. If I had the time and equipment I would have compacted it better. Other than that, its fantastic. The recycled millings tend to stick to the tires a little more than gravel, so I have to sweep some loose millings off the asphalt and back into the pad every once in a while.
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JAC1982
Explorer
Explorer
I agree w/ talking to someone local who is familiar w/ your soil types.

In our case, we used 4-5" of asphalt roadbase, used a bobcat to spread it then smash it down as best it could, then drove the big truck over it back and forth many many times.

We used peagravel in our dog run area and I wish we had used larger rocks. The gravel just moves around too much.
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Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Explorer III
You will get plenty of answers not a one will be correct for your existing conditions. Talk to a local excavator.
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Chum_lee
Explorer
Explorer
The type of sub base and the overall site drainage are the key. If you lay gravel on (what eventually becomes) mud, when wet, the gravel will, over time, sink into the mud and your efforts will most likely be wasted.

Does the ground rut easily now? (when wet) Consider your approach area as well as the actual parking place.

Chum lee

Kevinwa
Explorer
Explorer
The key to anything I. Life is drainage. If you just dig out a whole In The lawn and fill it with 6โ€ of gravel you now made a mud pit. The gravel is more porous then the clay and top soil so it will just fill with water. I suspect that is what happens with the one pictured above. If there was a way for the water to drain out of the gravel it would probably be zero issue

Grit_dog
Nomad III
Nomad III
As mentioned, depends.
Does it need to be somewhat structural, or can the trailer sit on it now without it sinking, getting soft (even in the rain and spring thaw)?
If so, just 3-4" of crushed rock to pretty it up.
If not, need 6-12" of road base, compacted, then cap it with a little gravel.
Even softer? Layer of fabric/geogrid then base and gravel.

Best to put down a vapor barrier for 2 purposes. Keeps excessive moisture out of the subgrade and controls weeds.
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