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Convert Reese Slider to Fixed

belairbrian
Explorer
Explorer
When we bought our first fiver the dealer included the hitch. Even though we had an 8ft bed they installed a quick slide. At the time they told me they didn't stock fixed hitches because they saw so few 8ft beds.

Three trucks later (all long box) I still have the slider in there. But was thinking about converting it to a fixed hitch.

Is it really as simple as unbolting the cross bar and switching it to the legs?
TV 2007 Chevy 2500 Long Box Vortec 8.1/Allison or 2016 Tundra Crew Max 5.7L 4x4
2022 Freedom Express 192RBS
Equalizer 4 way WDH, Prodigy 3 BC
USAF Retired
WAR EAGLE
16 REPLIES 16

belairbrian
Explorer
Explorer
bpounds wrote:
I think you're on the right track, and I was wrong about selling the existing. The numbers don't add up.


Far cry from when I bought our first 5th wheel. We traded in a TT and the dealer wouldn't take the hitch even gave back the brackets from the tongue.

I put it on CL and started a bidding war. It was right after Katrina and people were looking to pull FEMA trailers out of the Selma staging area. Since FEMA was requiring anti sway and leveling hitches, they were in short supply.
TV 2007 Chevy 2500 Long Box Vortec 8.1/Allison or 2016 Tundra Crew Max 5.7L 4x4
2022 Freedom Express 192RBS
Equalizer 4 way WDH, Prodigy 3 BC
USAF Retired
WAR EAGLE

bpounds
Nomad
Nomad
belairbrian wrote:
When I started the post I was just trying to find out if it really was a 4 bolt conversion. Which it appears to be.

Some interesting inputs to think about.
So here's what I came up with
As to sell the whole hitch, I might get $100 for it based on others available locally so selling and buying new would be net $300+. Vs $60 to convert

Does it take up space? a little more. The left side has the extra handle and the bar from side to side under the hitch. That bar has gotten in the way of putting things in the truck before when not towing.

I split the hitch when removing so the weight might not be that different. but the slide unit is poorly balanced. Son is finishing college so I'll be doing solo from now on.

probably will go ahead and swap out to fixed.


I think you're on the right track, and I was wrong about selling the existing. The numbers don't add up.
2006 F250 Diesel
2011 Keystone Cougar 278RKSWE Fiver

belairbrian
Explorer
Explorer
When I started the post I was just trying to find out if it really was a 4 bolt conversion. Which it appears to be.

Some interesting inputs to think about.
So here's what I came up with
As to sell the whole hitch, I might get $100 for it based on others available locally so selling and buying new would be net $300+. Vs $60 to convert

Does it take up space? a little more. The left side has the extra handle and the bar from side to side under the hitch. That bar has gotten in the way of putting things in the truck before when not towing.

I split the hitch when removing so the weight might not be that different. but the slide unit is poorly balanced. Son is finishing college so I'll be doing solo from now on.

probably will go ahead and swap out to fixed.
TV 2007 Chevy 2500 Long Box Vortec 8.1/Allison or 2016 Tundra Crew Max 5.7L 4x4
2022 Freedom Express 192RBS
Equalizer 4 way WDH, Prodigy 3 BC
USAF Retired
WAR EAGLE

valhalla360
Nomad
Nomad
bpounds wrote:
valhalla360 wrote:
Big question: Why?

We have the same hitch that came with our first 5er. It works fine in an 8ft bed even though we don't use the sliding mechanism.

Is there something wrong with it?


Few reasons I can think of are, the slider base takes up a lot of space, it adds a lot of weight, sometimes they add clunking, and it doesn't cost a lot to change. As someone noted above, the fixed base kit is very reasonably priced.


Mine doesn't take up any more space, weighs about the same, never heard or felt a clunk.

Are you possibly thinking of a different brand slider?
Tammy & Mike
Ford F250 V10
2021 Gray Wolf
Gemini Catamaran 34'
Full Time spliting time between boat and RV

mt1729
Explorer
Explorer
My hitch wasn't a Reese but it would break loose and not hold & stay in its locked position. It took about 20 minutes to fix. I set it where I wanted it. Turned it upside down and broke out my welder. No kit or any aftermarket stuff needed. Very simple fix and very easy to do.
Moose

FLY_4_FUN
Explorer
Explorer
If the cost of changing to a fixed base was reasonable I would also consider doing it on my Reese 16k. There is inherent movement in the slider mechanism, and now that I have a rounded cap there is no chance I will ever use the slider. I stopped lubing the mechanism years ago so I bet it wouldn't even slide without a massive jolt now.
2012 Dodge Ram 3500 crew SB 4x4 CTD 3.73
2015 Brookstone 315RL
2009 Colorado 29BHS (sold 2015)
05 Jayflight 29BHS (sold 2008)
99 Jayco Eagle 12SO (sold 2005)

cummins2014
Explorer
Explorer
bpounds wrote:
valhalla360 wrote:
Big question: Why?

We have the same hitch that came with our first 5er. It works fine in an 8ft bed even though we don't use the sliding mechanism.

Is there something wrong with it?


Few reasons I can think of are, the slider base takes up a lot of space, it adds a lot of weight, sometimes they add clunking, and it doesn't cost a lot to change. As someone noted above, the fixed base kit is very reasonably priced.


All of the above ,and maybe because he just wants to :B

bpounds
Nomad
Nomad
valhalla360 wrote:
Big question: Why?

We have the same hitch that came with our first 5er. It works fine in an 8ft bed even though we don't use the sliding mechanism.

Is there something wrong with it?


Few reasons I can think of are, the slider base takes up a lot of space, it adds a lot of weight, sometimes they add clunking, and it doesn't cost a lot to change. As someone noted above, the fixed base kit is very reasonably priced.
2006 F250 Diesel
2011 Keystone Cougar 278RKSWE Fiver

Dave_H_M
Explorer
Explorer
valhalla360 wrote:
Big question: Why?

We have the same hitch that came with our first 5er. It works fine in an 8ft bed even though we don't use the sliding mechanism.

Is there something wrong with it?


:h Same here.

valhalla360
Nomad
Nomad
Big question: Why?

We have the same hitch that came with our first 5er. It works fine in an 8ft bed even though we don't use the sliding mechanism.

Is there something wrong with it?
Tammy & Mike
Ford F250 V10
2021 Gray Wolf
Gemini Catamaran 34'
Full Time spliting time between boat and RV

cummins2014
Explorer
Explorer
belairbrian wrote:
After over 10 year in the truck, the slider is probably frozen in place. While it works as a fixed hitch, it's probably worth it's weight in steel.

I did find the rails for $60 delivered.


I had the 16k Reese Slider . If not for needing a higher rated hitch would still have it , so now the 18k Reese slider, and the Andersen both have served me well. I use both.

Apparently you have no desire to change hitches , don’t blame you, that 16k Reese is a great hitch. 10 years has proven that .

belairbrian
Explorer
Explorer
After over 10 year in the truck, the slider is probably frozen in place. While it works as a fixed hitch, it's probably worth it's weight in steel.

I did find the rails for $60 delivered.
TV 2007 Chevy 2500 Long Box Vortec 8.1/Allison or 2016 Tundra Crew Max 5.7L 4x4
2022 Freedom Express 192RBS
Equalizer 4 way WDH, Prodigy 3 BC
USAF Retired
WAR EAGLE

cummins2014
Explorer
Explorer
Or better yet , spend the $500 ,and get the rail mount Steel Andersen hitch, and sell the whole slider hitch .

cummins2014
Explorer
Explorer
bpounds wrote:
As he said, yes you can. But then you've got a slider base without a home. I think you might be better off if you just bought a fixed hitch and sold the complete slider hitch. It will be harder to sell just the slider base alone.


If its the 16K Reese I think he has, its about $75 to convert, if not then about $175, regardless , I would make a paper weight out of that slider mechanism :B . A decent 16K hitch is $500-700