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 > Entry Door Rebuild

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CavemanCharlie

Storden,MN

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Joined: 03/01/2012

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Posted: 07/31/19 08:03pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

When my TT had this problem I did a temporary fix by adding a couple of self starting screws with washers to the aluminum framing on the outside of the door.

Then I used a couple of really light cables under the washers and around the screws.


I made the cable from each side into a loop and used some cable clamps to keep the loop together.

In the middle of the door, between of the loops, I added a screw eye.

I then ran the looped cables through the loops of the screw eye.

(Kinda hard to explain and I apologize for not explaing it better.)

By tightening down the screw eye I am pulling the sides of the door back together.

My temporary fix is going on it's 6 year. lol

But, then again I'm a Caveman.

( My original plan was to add L shaped brackets to the corners of the door after I pulled it all back together with the screw eyes. But, it worked so well I never added the brackets. If it gets any looser I can just turn the screw eyes some more)

It really doesn't look to bad no one ever notices it.

On rare occasions being a Caveman has it's advantages.

fallsrider

Raleigh, NC

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Posted: 08/04/19 07:12pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I tackled the door repair yesterday. Thankfully, the wood frame perimeter was only three sides, with the strike side being a full-length galvanized channel. This made it possible to insert the new frame without removing either fiberglass skin. The bottom strip, and part of the lower hinge side strip were pretty rotten.

[image]

I hope to keep this trailer for quite some time, so I didn't want to have to do this again. The wood strips were 1-3/8" thick, and ranged from 1-3/16" wide to 1-5/8" wide. I considered doing them in douglas fir because it is more rot resistant, and it is more stable dimensionally (less likely to bow, twist, etc.) I instead bought a 4x4x8 douglas fir post, and ripped it down to the dimensions I needed. Problem solved.

[image]

I'm happy with the results. I think this door should last quite a while.

[image]

* This post was last edited 08/05/19 07:25pm by fallsrider *   View edit history

Duane4238

North Tonawanda, New York

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Posted: 08/05/19 02:20pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Just a little additional info to help keep your rebuilt door going for a long time, All of these TT doors eventually rot out because the window frame seals (caulking) give out over time. Take the frame, probably plastic, off and reseal the window to the door on the outside and the inside. That will keep any water from running down the window and back inside the door. I did a rebuild on my old '92 Wilderness and the door was better than new when done.
Duane

4aSong

Northwest Arizona

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Posted: 08/05/19 04:23pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Fallsrider,

The pictures did no come thru.


M & N

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Lance Model 1985 - The Kramalot Inn
EU2000i * Prodigy * McKesh * Trek * Renogy * ENU

fallsrider

Raleigh, NC

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Posted: 08/05/19 07:32pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

4aSong wrote:

Fallsrider,

The pictures did no come thru.

I don't know what happened. They showed up on my desktop where I created the post, but they didn't show up later on my phone. I posted them to another hosting site. Hope they show up now.

fallsrider

Raleigh, NC

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Posted: 08/05/19 07:35pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Duane4238 wrote:

Just a little additional info to help keep your rebuilt door going for a long time, All of these TT doors eventually rot out because the window frame seals (caulking) give out over time. Take the frame, probably plastic, off and reseal the window to the door on the outside and the inside. That will keep any water from running down the window and back inside the door. I did a rebuild on my old '92 Wilderness and the door was better than new when done.
Duane
That's a good idea. I actually had the glass out on Saturday, not knowing at the time that I didn't have to do that to rebuild the frame. I thought one of the fiberglass skins would have to come off, but that wasn't the case. I'll get me some of the sealing strips and redo the glass.

4aSong

Northwest Arizona

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Posted: 08/05/19 09:04pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

fallsrider wrote:

4aSong wrote:

Fallsrider,

The pictures did no come thru.

I don't know what happened. They showed up on my desktop where I created the post, but they didn't show up later on my phone. I posted them to another hosting site. Hope they show up now.


Pictures are showing now, by looking at the pictures I don't believe you will have any further issues with the door.
I would follow up with the suggestion from DUANE4238 for sealing around the window just to eliminate any possible leaks.

Duane4238

North Tonawanda, New York

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Posted: 08/06/19 12:45pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Viewing your pictures was like looking at my door project a few years ago. After you reseal the window inside and out, put the black frame back on and then seal all the way around where the glass and plastic touch, and also where the fiberglass and the plastic meet. That will completely seal the window. That's what I did to mine. Looks like a professional job.
Duane

CavemanCharlie

Storden,MN

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Posted: 08/06/19 06:30pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

fallsrider wrote:

I tackled the door repair yesterday. Thankfully, the wood frame perimeter was only three sides, with the strike side being a full-length galvanized channel. This made it possible to insert the new frame without removing either fiberglass skin. The bottom strip, and part of the lower hinge side strip were pretty rotten.

[image]

I hope to keep this trailer for quite some time, so I didn't want to have to do this again. The wood strips were 1-3/8" thick, and ranged from 1-3/16" wide to 1-5/8" wide. I considered doing them in douglas fir because it is more rot resistant, and it is more stable dimensionally (less likely to bow, twist, etc.) I instead bought a 4x4x8 douglas fir post, and ripped it down to the dimensions I needed. Problem solved.

[image]

I'm happy with the results. I think this door should last quite a while.

[image]


Looks really nice. If you ever get to SW MN of NW Iowa let me know and I'll give you some money to rebuild mine so that I can get rid of my Caveman fix. [emoticon]

fallsrider

Raleigh, NC

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Joined: 11/11/2005

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Posted: 08/06/19 08:04pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Duane4238 wrote:

Viewing your pictures was like looking at my door project a few years ago. After you reseal the window inside and out, put the black frame back on and then seal all the way around where the glass and plastic touch, and also where the fiberglass and the plastic meet. That will completely seal the window. That's what I did to mine. Looks like a professional job.
Duane
Hope the memories weren't too bad! It makes sense to seal the window. I think I'll do that soon.

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