UPDATE --- Converter/charger issue?

[ib516]

I'm camping in a remote campground in the Canadian Rockies. I have an Iota45 with the smart charge dongle connected that is supposed to turn it into a 4 stage smart charger. I have a small voltage gauge hard wired in to the RV and use an inverter generator for charging during the allowed hours of 5 to 7pm.

Lately what has been happening is when we arrive at a campground with fully charged dual 6v golf cart batteries, the built in charger will not charge the batteries later that day after some use on the batteries, even though the resting voltage is 12.4v or so. (It used to charge from this level). Happened at the last campground too after unhooking the 7 pin.

It's like the converter/charger doesn't recognize the drop in voltage from use. When we unhitch we are usually at 12.8v now down to 12.2v and it usually goes to 14+ v when I fire the generator up. Now it's just been sitting at 12.2v and I can tell by the sound of the generator on smart throttle, it has no load.

[BFL13]

You are in business! 🙂

Note that if you screw up the drill and twiddle the voltage pot while the left switch is in "stages" mode, it will mess up all the voltages in that mode. You can put it back the way it was as explained in the manual. (BTDT)

The adjustment is NOT to the final stage of the "stages" mode. First switch A to the right for single voltage mode, then twiddle the pot to whatever voltage. It will stay there until you change it.

For off-grid generator charging, that is all you need for a 50-90. Set 14.8v say. (14.8 at 25C is 15.2 at 5C so you want a table of temp comp voltages if you are keen)

You only want the "stages" mode when on shore power. In that mode, it does Bulk for half an hour then goes to Normal. Half an hour is not enough for a 50-90 at 14.8, which is why to use the single voltage mode for that.

Also for AGMs that require the 14.x all the way to full charge, you don't want it to drop the voltage until you say, so you use the single voltage mode for that, even on shore power.

[ib516]

BFL13 wrote:

ib516 wrote:
PM4 with the holes for adjustment and the LED.

I would not be sure until you open the package. The dealers/sellers often use a photo of one kind when selling another kind. Fingers crossed!

The PowerMax website link I posted earlier for the PM3-LK has the operating manual for using those two holes that would also apply to the PM4 with that feature. It does not say about the flashlight and small screwdriver you need though.

It arrived today. PM4-55. LED and two holes (A switch and B potentiometer) for adjusting the voltage at the final stage.

[BFL13]

ib516 wrote:
PM4 with the holes for adjustment and the LED.

I would not be sure until you open the package. The dealers/sellers often use a photo of one kind when selling another kind. Fingers crossed!

The PowerMax website link I posted earlier for the PM3-LK has the operating manual for using those two holes that would also apply to the PM4 with that feature. It does not say about the flashlight and small screwdriver you need though.

[ib516]

PM4 with the holes for adjustment and the LED.

[BFL13]

What exact model did you get? The LK in the name is the one with the adjustable voltage. There are still some older versions for sale with just PM3 or 4 in the name that are not so good. If it is not an LK, change that order or you will be unhappy.

LKs are no more expensive though.

It does seem there are newer "PM4" without the LK in the name but do have the two holes in the side, the internal fan, and a little green LED to show it is on.

If the one you get has the external fan and no holes in the side once you actually see it, it is not what you want.

[ib516]

I bought a Powermax 55 Amp 4 stage from Amazon to replace the Iota 45 Amp with IQ4 dongle. Believe it or not, the 55 Amp unit was $30 LESS than their 45 Amp one. I didn't wan to go with the 75 or 100 Amp (even though my two 6V golf cart batteries can likely take the current) because my RV wiring from the rear mounted converter/charger to the front mounted battery bank isn't very heavy gauge wire. I suspect it was spec'd by the engineers at Jayco to carry 45 Amps max on a single 12V battery so I might already be pushing it with a 55 Amp unit.

I use a Firman 3300w/3000w inverter generator for the dry camping we do. 90% of the time we have zero hook ups when camping in the Canadian Rockies.

[BFL13]

I have a 100amp and 75 amp PowerMax. According to my Kill-A-Watt, the 100 amper pulls 1910VA when set to 14.8v and doing 103 amps.

Of course you actually use battery voltage at the time to measure your output watts, so peak input is just before DC amps start to taper down from 103 when the battery just reaches 14.x volts. (there is voltage drop at 103 amps, so battery voltage is not yet 14.8--more like 14.3 with my wiring zoo). You see the 14.8 at the end when amps are way down.

Gets sort of complicated what the max input would ever be. Anyway too much for a "2000w" inverter/gen, but ok for a "3000w" inverter gen. Don't know about in-between those size gens, such as a "2400w".

I can just run the 75 amper on my B&S P2200 at its 1700VA doing 75 amps, set to 14.8v. The gen is way maxed out but does not quit. Right on the edge.

I use #4 from the converter to battery. I think #6 would not quite do it and get full amps.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

BFL thanks to your reviews I looked at the Powermax and they seem to be the least offensive converter, especially the 80 and 100 amp models if a big enough generator is used to push them. I may end up getting one and sticking a big *** handle on top and six gauge jumper cables. The Megawatts are OK but limited to 40 amps.

[BFL13]

I like these a lot, but you have to learn how to use them and have the right "attitude" for doing things that way. See the manual for operating instructions. (It is not rocket science)

https://powermaxconverters.com/product/pm3-12v-series/

If you are not that way inclined, there are others, which do less for more money. 🙂

[MEXICOWANDERER]

Clouseau level pep-out lighter, aptitude

[KMLsquared]

My brother in law manually raised the rpms on his contractor generator while my camper was plugged into it. Not only did this catch my microwave on fire it also cooked my converter. The unloaded output voltage tested fine but when loaded it could not maintain voltage. A progressive dynamics was quickly installed along with heavy gauge wires. I could not charge at 38 amps out of a 40 amp converter.

[ib516]

Yes, it always used to start out above 14V when connected to 120V AC (generator mostly), never had the generator running long enough to get out of bulk mode. Rarely camp with hook ups.

[BFL13]

Ok, that noise is only when the converter is "loaded", which does not bode well. The IQ4 on the bench test staying at 13.4 seems wrong? AFAIK it should jump to 14.8 for 15 minutes even with a full battery, then drop to Float.

[ib516]

BFL13 wrote:

ib516 wrote:

BFL13 wrote:
What is the voltage at the batteries and at the converter terminals when connected but the IQ4 is not plugged into the converter?

(Possible bad IQ4, but converter ok)

IQ4 makes no difference in any scenario.

The converter does proper bench test at 13.4v, but on battery with IQ4 it has no output (voltage remains battery voltage)

So leave the IQ4 out of it, and put the converter on the battery, which I suspect will now be 13.4 instead of 12.7. If so, the converter is ok.

The Iota jack the IQ4 plugs into might be faulty or the IQ4 itself or the wire cord for it has broken wire inside it.

Yes, I tested in the following ways:
- Battery voltage at rest with nothing connected, 12.7V
- Converter plugged into 120V outlet with nothing connected to DC terminals, 13.4V
- Converter plugged into 120V outlet with nothing connected to DC terminals, IQ4 plugged in and lit up, 13.4V
- Converter plugged into 120V and connected to batteries, IQ4 plugged in, 12.74V and high pitched humming noise
- Converter plugged into 120V and connected to batteries, IQ4 unplugged, 12.74V and high pitched humming noise