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4x4ord

Alberta

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Posted: 08/12/19 04:38am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

You can buy a remanufactured turbo for $857 from Summitt Racing
... free shipping. The r and r is about 10 hours. I wouldn't go to a dealer.


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ib516

Canada

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Posted: 08/12/19 10:39am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

ACZL wrote:

If your oil is low enough (approx 2 qts), add 2 qts of Hot Shot Secret Stiction Eliminator. 60 bucks or so and $$ back guarantee. Worth a shot and a lot cheaper than a new turbo.

I'm not sure I see how an oil additive can fix sticky turbo vanes.


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ACZL

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Posted: 08/12/19 11:30am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

ib516 wrote:

ACZL wrote:

If your oil is low enough (approx 2 qts), add 2 qts of Hot Shot Secret Stiction Eliminator. 60 bucks or so and $$ back guarantee. Worth a shot and a lot cheaper than a new turbo.

I'm not sure I see how an oil additive can fix sticky turbo vanes.


As you know, oil flows thru the turbo and the vanes pivot inside the turbo in some fashion. Anyways, the oil can get burnt onto the inside of the turbo and pivot points and that's what's called "Stiction". The HSS has ingredients in it that will clean off the burnt oil and return things pretty much back to orig cond if not all the way. Another result of that it's working is after you put it in, start engine and run it, you'll see white smoke out of the tail pipe. Doesn't last forever.

Lot cheaper than a new/re-man turbo and labor. If it doesn't work, can always get your $$ back.


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S Davis

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Posted: 08/12/19 12:00pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

It is a good idea to use the turbo brake on a regular basis, it will help keep the adjustment range clear of build up.

ksss

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Posted: 08/12/19 12:05pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

S Davis wrote:

It is a good idea to use the turbo brake on a regular basis, it will help keep the adjustment range clear of build up.


That is a good tip.


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ib516

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Posted: 08/12/19 12:45pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

ACZL wrote:

ib516 wrote:

ACZL wrote:

If your oil is low enough (approx 2 qts), add 2 qts of Hot Shot Secret Stiction Eliminator. 60 bucks or so and $$ back guarantee. Worth a shot and a lot cheaper than a new turbo.

I'm not sure I see how an oil additive can fix sticky turbo vanes.


As you know, oil flows thru the turbo and the vanes pivot inside the turbo in some fashion. Anyways, the oil can get burnt onto the inside of the turbo and pivot points and that's what's called "Stiction". The HSS has ingredients in it that will clean off the burnt oil and return things pretty much back to orig cond if not all the way. Another result of that it's working is after you put it in, start engine and run it, you'll see white smoke out of the tail pipe. Doesn't last forever.

Lot cheaper than a new/re-man turbo and labor. If it doesn't work, can always get your $$ back.

Ah, OK. I didn't know engine oil touched the vanes, I thought it was just the turbo shaft that was oil lubed. I thought the vanes were electrically actuated, not oil driven. On edit: looks like I'm right
VIDEO

S Davis

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Posted: 08/12/19 06:58pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

ksss wrote:

S Davis wrote:

It is a good idea to use the turbo brake on a regular basis, it will help keep the adjustment range clear of build up.


That is a good tip.


On my 2013 in heavy stop and go without the turbo brake I see vain movement from 55% to 98%, with it on I see between 5% and 98%. This is in Seattle traffic where you are going 70 one second and 0 the next.

Learjet

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Posted: 08/12/19 07:25pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

just like the RAM Cummins exhaust brake...use it or loose it.


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MNRon

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Posted: 08/12/19 07:55pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

OP here, still traveling. We’ve added another 1k mikes towing heavy, and probably another 1k miles without the 5er since original post.

Just leaving Rockies behind us but still at 7000ft and have crossed the continental divide a dozen or two times since last posting. No more problems...yet...fingers crossed. Taking it in for oil change in Cheyenne tomorrow, still have 1500-2000miles left in this trip.

I have been a little gentle on it (not hammering down) but have let cruise control rev it up pretty hard on some of the pulls.

Not sure what to think about exhaust brake. Last mechanic said not to use it much as it might aggravate the issue I’m having. Prior to that it was the second button I pushed (after tow/haul) every time I took off pulling. Since his advice I’ve only turned it on when needing it on a downhill. Advice here seems to be “use it” so maybe I’ll tend more back to previous practice.

I’ll talk with mechanic tomorrow, but currently planning on at least finishing trip and dealing with at home. If “babying” it means the code seldom fires, and I can avoid limp mode, not sure if I won’t just continue to live with it instead of shelling out $4-6k....don’t know... we’ll see...


Ron & Pat
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Grit dog

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Posted: 08/13/19 12:40am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Maybe someone could explain how it's somehow beneficial to use the exhaust brake function to help keep the variable vanes from sticking when they move just the same every time you mash the throttle.


"Yes Sir, Oct 10 1888, Those poor school children froze to death in their tracks. They did not even find them until Spring. Especially hard hit were the ones who had to trek uphill to school both ways, with no shoes." -Bert A.

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