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 > Electric Fridge, Now That Hole in the Side..

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dodge guy

Bartlett IL

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Posted: 08/09/19 05:46am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Not to mention it's going to be less efficient with 90 degree air flowing over the condenser. And all the extra outside heat coming inside. Close it off from the inside. Then keep it simple and leave the outside vents alone.


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neschultz

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Posted: 08/09/19 06:02am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

stevemorris wrote:

neschultz wrote:

PNW_Steve wrote:


If you close off the outside vents you are going to come up with some sort of ventilation for the condenser.



Why, my residential fridge at home doesn’t vent to the outside?

In my case, the condenser is in the bottom and I figured that air would go in at the bottom and out the top and sides, just like in a house.

I have been thinking about closing the top vent though to prevent moisture and outside temps from leaking in. You think that’s a bad idea?


compressor fridges don't need ventilation they need circulation. all fridges give off heat, a fridge with no ventilation will heat up your trailer, big difference between a 100 sqft trailer vs 1000 sqft house!


I don’t think that heat from the refrigerator is a big concern. Our 10 cubic foot residential model only uses 140 watts when it’s running. And our 40’ 5th wheel is at least 400 sq. ft. with the 4 slides open.


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GrandpaKip

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Posted: 08/09/19 07:23am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

We had a compressorless dorm fridge in a 14’ cargo trailer and it put out a fair amount of heat over time. You could definitely feel it.
I would just leave the vents as they are.


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st clair

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Posted: 08/09/19 09:00am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

There is a big difference in the Danfoss-style compressors and the less expensive dorm or household fridge compressors that do put out lots of heat and eat up a lot of power.

The RV / portable compressor fridges will not need outside venting. It seems better to put the heat into the cabin than to let hot air circulate over the back of the fridge, which will be hard to seal off. If it is a chest freezer then very impractical to seal off.

If you have an AirC running then you will not need to worry about the state of charge on batteries, and if you are running the fridge off batteries (likely not plugged into AC power), then the cabin air is cooler than outside, and will be vented out the roof vent and never really add heat to the cabin anyway. If it is cold outside then not issues at all.


If you are putting a giant house fridge in your camper, then you probably drive from electrical outlet to electrical outlet, or always on generator, so power consumption is much less of an issue than those boondocking.
It doesnt matter how you vent household fridges.

Chris Bryant

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Posted: 08/09/19 03:54pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

neschultz wrote:

stevemorris wrote:

neschultz wrote:

PNW_Steve wrote:


If you close off the outside vents you are going to come up with some sort of ventilation for the condenser.



Why, my residential fridge at home doesn’t vent to the outside?

In my case, the condenser is in the bottom and I figured that air would go in at the bottom and out the top and sides, just like in a house.

I have been thinking about closing the top vent though to prevent moisture and outside temps from leaking in. You think that’s a bad idea?


compressor fridges don't need ventilation they need circulation. all fridges give off heat, a fridge with no ventilation will heat up your trailer, big difference between a 100 sqft trailer vs 1000 sqft house!


I don’t think that heat from the refrigerator is a big concern. Our 10 cubic foot residential model only uses 140 watts when it’s running. And our 40’ 5th wheel is at least 400 sq. ft. with the 4 slides open.


Keep in mind it’s a heat pump- you are getting way more than 140 watts of heat, you’re probably getting 3-5000 btu of heat.


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