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Anyone Make a 2-Tank Regulator that is Not Auto-Changeover?

Woodtroll
Explorer
Explorer
I get an occasional propane smell from my 16-year-old Marshall two-tank, two-stage auto-changeover regulator, so I think it's llived its best years. It seems that all the regulators available as direct replacement have about a 20% chance of failure, either right out of the box or in the first year, based on Amazon and other vendor reviews. This is not encouraging when the tanks are a thin wall away from my head when I'm sleeping.

I never use the auto-changeover feature anyway as I don't trust both tanks being left open at once, and running the risk that I run completely out of propane without realizing the regulator has switched over. Does anyone make a good, reliable RV regulator that can be switched over manually but lacks the auto feature? Alternately, can someone point me to an auto regulator that is at least, say, 95% reliable?
2003 F250XL 4WD 7.3L Crewcab LB, 6 speed; Prodigy brake controller; Big Tex grille guard/ deer deflector. Canoe hauler and camping truck extraordinaire!
2003 Layton 242 Scout- Extra batteries, solar panels, LED lighting, and propane for boondocking.
18 REPLIES 18

wopachop
Explorer
Explorer
I have a buddy who is very mechanically inclined and has owned trailers for at least 20 years. He noticed a slight propane smell from my trailer and told me the auto regulators are known to leak unless you keep both tank valves open.

We didnt discuss different brands. Was just a quick tip he told me.

Actually as im thinking back now i can remember if he said both HOSES need to be attached.....or if both tank valves need to be open.

JRscooby
Explorer II
Explorer II
I would thing any good regulator with a tee on the input side would do what you want. Just close the valve on the MT tank before open the full.
My Dad liked the auto change, but had a issue with his old camper. When the valve switched, the fridge would go out sometimes. He decided that while the tank was off being filled air would get in the line. When air bubble got to fridge, food warms. He put a tee in just ahead of regulator and a small valve to outside. Hook up fresh filled tank, close valve on other, open the new, then the little valve for just a second or 2. Open valve on the other tank, make sure drawing from the right one...

time2roll
Explorer II
Explorer II
Any automatic regulator will run fine with either cylinder turned off. No need for something special.
I recommend Cavagna brand regulator and pigtails if spending money.

Woodtroll
Explorer
Explorer
BFL13 wrote:

Except for bears and cougars ๐Ÿ™‚ Send your dog out first!

https://www.goldstreamgazette.com/news/bear-bites-dog-owner-punches-bear-in-a-northern-b-c-encounter...


Haha! Yes indeed, some places are riskier than others. We do have an increasing population of black bears that cause nuisance problems in many of the places we stay, but the most persistent animal problem we usually face is entitled raccoons that believe they should have access to our locked wooden food box! They get kind of grouchy when they can't get in, amd sometimes tear up things in apparent spite. :B

There are rumors of mountain lions here in the Eastern Appalachians, but no proven populations.

Safe camping, sir, and thanks again!
2003 F250XL 4WD 7.3L Crewcab LB, 6 speed; Prodigy brake controller; Big Tex grille guard/ deer deflector. Canoe hauler and camping truck extraordinaire!
2003 Layton 242 Scout- Extra batteries, solar panels, LED lighting, and propane for boondocking.

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
Woodtroll wrote:
SoundGuy wrote:
And so what if it did ever happen, it's not like death is on your doorstep if you do go outside! :S


Exactly; Iโ€™ll take that risk! ๐Ÿ™‚

Thanks again, everyone.


Except for bears and cougars ๐Ÿ™‚ Send your dog out first!

https://www.goldstreamgazette.com/news/bear-bites-dog-owner-punches-bear-in-a-northern-b-c-encounter...
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

Woodtroll
Explorer
Explorer
SoundGuy wrote:
And so what if it did ever happen, it's not like death is on your doorstep if you do go outside! :S


Exactly; Iโ€™ll take that risk! ๐Ÿ™‚

Thanks again, everyone.
2003 F250XL 4WD 7.3L Crewcab LB, 6 speed; Prodigy brake controller; Big Tex grille guard/ deer deflector. Canoe hauler and camping truck extraordinaire!
2003 Layton 242 Scout- Extra batteries, solar panels, LED lighting, and propane for boondocking.

D_E_Bishop
Explorer
Explorer
Check here and then order from your local dealer.
"I travel not to go anywhere, but to go. I travel for travel's sake. The great affair is to go". R. L. Stevenson

David Bishop
2002 Winnebago Adventurer 32V
2009 GMC Canyon
Roadmaster 5000
BrakeBuddy Classic II

SoundGuy
Explorer
Explorer
troubledwaters wrote:
Just buy a direct replacement auto change over regulator and use it like you have been.


X2!! No need to make this any more complicated - K.I.S.S. and simply replace the aged auto changeover regulator with another and be done with it. The OP isn't alone, many of us choose to run our regulator manually, running just one tank at a time 'til it empties then manually switching to the second tank. Not once have I ever had to get up in the middle of a cold, rainy night to switch the regulator over to the second tank. And so what if it did ever happen, it's not like death is on your doorstep if you do go outside! :S
2012 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab
2014 Coachmen Freedom Express 192RBS
2003 Fleetwood Yuma * 2008 K-Z Spree 240BH-LX
2007 TrailCruiser C21RBH * 2000 Fleetwood Santa Fe
1998 Jayco 10UD * 1969 Coleman CT380

troubledwaters
Explorer II
Explorer II
Buying a regulator and tee valve will cost just as much or more then the auto changeover regulator. Just buy a direct replacement auto change over regulator and use it like you have been.

Chris_Bryant
Explorer
Explorer
As has been pointed out, a two stage regulator with a check valve equipped T is what you want.
-- Chris Bryant

pauldub
Explorer
Explorer
You just buy a two stage regular and connect a T-valve to the output. I think that's what Dutchman said also. I did this long ago with my travel trailer for some reason that I no longer remember. Later on I bought an auto changeover one and it was still working fine when I sold the trailer 10 years later. No reason to believe that the T-valve won't fail and leak also but it is simpler than the auto ones are.

Old-Biscuit
Explorer II
Explorer II
Woodtroll

Contact the folks in DutchmenSport LINK

Have them make you a dual hose set up with a 2 stage regulator (250# inlet/11"WC outlet)
Reg should be rated for 160,000 btu minimum with Light Green ACME Nut (200,000 btu flow rating)
Is it time for your medication or mine?


2007 DODGE 3500 QC SRW 5.9L CTD In-Bed 'quiet gen'
2007 HitchHiker II 32.5 UKTG 2000W Xantex Inverter
US NAVY------USS Decatur DDG31

naturist
Nomad
Nomad
Woodtroll wrote:
Bob213, you are right, the current one has served me well. But it seems any of them, including Cavagna, Fairview, Marshall, and especially Camco, have their share of failures. Perhaps it is not as bad as it seems, since people are more likely to complain about a bad experience than they are to share a positive experience in the reviews.


Guaranteed everyone with a failure screams it to the heavens while maybe one in 10,000 pipes up in praise of . . . nothing happened, it worked as expected.

I've had one on my only RV, and a couple on my house and workshop. I paid no attention to brands, and they've all worked fine for years. Don't sweat it. And I always use them in auto mode, with both tanks turned on. If you pay no attention to the thing, of course you will one day run completely out of gas. Give it a glance once in a while already, and you will never have a problem.

At the same time, the mathematics of statistics predicts that regardless of the finest materials, most careful and skilled craftsmanship, tight QC, and conservative design, somewhere out there is a unit that will fail prematurely in service.

Talked to a guy a while back worried his 60,000 mile old luxury car was a lemon because the alternator BRACKET broke. Naw, man, those things suffer zero wear, and if they are strong enough to survive the first starting of the engine, they will last 500,000 miles and beyond. You just won the lottery by finding THE ONE math predicts will break anyway. Pop over to the nearest junk yard and give the man $5 for one off a wreck. You already found the bad one, the junkyard one will last forever.

Woodtroll
Explorer
Explorer
Bob213, you are right, the current one has served me well. But it seems any of them, including Cavagna, Fairview, Marshall, and especially Camco, have their share of failures. Perhaps it is not as bad as it seems, since people are more likely to complain about a bad experience than they are to share a positive experience in the reviews.
2003 F250XL 4WD 7.3L Crewcab LB, 6 speed; Prodigy brake controller; Big Tex grille guard/ deer deflector. Canoe hauler and camping truck extraordinaire!
2003 Layton 242 Scout- Extra batteries, solar panels, LED lighting, and propane for boondocking.