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Me Again

Sunbird(Wa)/snowbird(Az)

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Posted: 08/10/19 09:37am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

6.7 tow rig wrote:

So is it safe to say that a travel trailer is easier to maneuver and less to worry about on uneven terrain? It seems like bed clearance could be an issue pulling into gas stations, up my driveway, etc.


I have towed 3 different fifth wheels from 26' to 39'+ and some bumper pull TTers. We never had bed clearance issues. Getting out of some service stations with the 39er required a bit of planning going in. At times we backed away from the pump. Each has it's pluses and minuses. Without a doubt the 5th wheels are more stable on the road, easier to hook up and unhook. The 39er has 6 point auto leveling and very fast hydraulic landing gear.

The 2019 Laredo 225MK has a very slow electric tongue jack and slow electric stabilizers. It is has a 8K GVWR and we load it about that heavy. We tow it with a 3500 RAM CC SB 4x4 SRW diesel, so it does not push the truck around, it does however create a different feel than the 5th wheel. I would not want to tow it will a SUV or 150/1500 as our route to and from Az has use going over passes and elevation over 6500 feet at times, then add wind!


2015 RAM 3500 CC SB SRW Our Rig New 2017 Bighorn 3575el. Commuter trailer 2019 Laredo 225MK. Retired and enjoying it!


Durb

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Posted: 08/10/19 10:52am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Google Blue Ox Super Ride. Easy to pivot rearward for cab clearance plus has a cushioned ride. Consider an air hitch if you are worried about consistent bedrail clearance problems. My air hitch can be pumped up to allow an extra 2 inches of clearance. It even has an onboard air option where you can raise the hitch from the cab of your truck.

If this is your first fifth wheel, I wouldn't discount a soft joint hitch. The ride with a solid hitch on a fifth wheel can be particularly punishing compared to a travel trailer. Because of the high pin design compared to a travel trailer, chucking forces will be introduced. Plus, your hitch weight will be twice as much.

My guess is the people who state a B&W hitch is the best hitch ever built have never towed with a Trailer Saver hitch. I've towed with both and there is no comparison.

I would also look at the Reese Goosebox as it gets good reviews. They make an offset gooseneck ball for extra clearance. The nature of the design may add to your driveway clearance problems.

Good luck. You are going to enjoy that fifth wheel.

Cummins12V98

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Posted: 08/10/19 11:10am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Lyle, sorry for your loss!

There is always the human factor! Distractions happen unfortunately.

I recently launched my boat right after watching a guy drop his boat off his trailer backing down ramp. He actually removed cable AND safety chain. We were in the middle of getting ready when this happened. My wife and both forgot to remove outdrive transport bracket until in the water with lots of people ready to launch or load. Laying on the swim step i blindly removed all three parts soaking my self to the neck.

Some will say you should have done a pull test. Test I agree but a "VISUAL" test would have done the same.

Your call but you should start a new topic on this to remind people to do the "TEST" of their choice!!!


2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's
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Cummins12V98

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Posted: 08/10/19 11:16am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

To be clear when backing into a B&W "IF" the handle comes to the "LATCHED" position ti will NOT come loose. Many times I have backed into mine and the handle does NOT fully close even tho the jaws LOOK to be fully engaged.

Handle MUST be closed/locked!!!

thomas201

Eastern Panhandle WV

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Posted: 08/10/19 12:20pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Back to the OP. I love 5ers, I had a three month driving school with them, and never drove a bumper pull until I was over 40. I wouldn't have anything else.

For the fifth wheel, if it is rated for your pin and trailer weight, they will all work. The head should articulate backy/fronty and left/right. I like a slider, because with the articulation it can help you in a tight spot.

I like rails, but I have ratchet straps that fit the slots and I tie stuff down. I do not haul gravel or sand and I could care less about a flat bed.

Slide bar verses jaws (dual or single). The bar has more movement, but it is less likely to fail than the kingpin, they should cost a lot less. Jaws have less movement, but have wear parts inside. Both get the job done.

When you hook up do a pull test. Then when before you dolly up and hook up the emergency and plug, look to see if you have captured the pin. Use a flashlight if required. I then lock my fifth wheel so no joker can release my pin when I am using the bathroom.

Don't overthink, you can change your mind later without it costing too much money. Checklists are a great idea, and do it the right way, the same way, each and every time. Do not let others distract you.

I use an articulated slide bar, with a slider on rails. But that is just me, and I like simple. Having driven less than truck load tankers I am used to a lively ride, so I dismiss chucking issues and we have visited all of the states save HI and AK by land yacht. Have fun, don't worry.

6.7 tow rig

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Posted: 08/10/19 03:30pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks for the comments. I walked around the campground this morning talking to others that had shortbeds and fifth wheels. They all loved them and had no complaints.


2018 Dodge Ram 2500 Laramie Cummins 4x4
2013 Primetime Lacrosse 318bhs


laknox

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Posted: 08/10/19 09:15pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Me Again wrote:

laknox wrote:

6.7 tow rig wrote:

I know from searches and skimming there are about a million different options as far as hitches, sliders, non sliders, etc. But I am still confused as we have been in a travel trailer for the last 16 years. I have a 2018 Ram 2500 4x4 short bed and am looking at a Grand Design 311bhs. What hitch do I need? I dont want to have cab to trailer contact on accident and want something fool proof. I've seen sliders but also something that hooks to the kingpin on the RV instead? I'm sure it's been asked before but help me please. I am also worried about bed clearance to the rv because my driveway is kind of steep getting in. What if anything do I need to be looking at there?


First off, I'm a B&W fan and wouldn't have any other hitch. Second, even the virtually foolproof B&W hitches aren't foolproof if you're STUPID, as I proved in spectacular fashion just a couple hours ago. If you forget to f'n LATCH the hitch after you back into the pin, it WILL fall off onto the truck bed. So, new tailgate and new bed sides instead of just new paint. FW is in better shape than the truck, except for some paint transfer and scratches.

Lyle


So if you back all the way into the king pin, the spring loaded arm should have swung to the closed position, waiting for the safety pin. Do to the design, I believe the hitch would have a 95% chance of staying latched. So there has to be more to the story? Like the king pin lower ridge was to high holding jams open? Or you did not back in all the way! Or you pinned the latch arm open!

Chris


Correct, but that pre-supposes that you actually =removed= the f'n pin locking the jaws in the open position for unhooking... As I said, STUPID!!!!

Lyle


2002 GMC Sierra 2500 HD Duramax Crew Cab 4x4 6.5' Bed
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laknox

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Posted: 08/10/19 09:20pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

MFL wrote:

Sorry to hear this happened Lyle!! I also thought jaws would stay closed, even if safety pin was forgotten, due to the cam action design. I'd be interested to hear more, if you feel like sharing.

Maybe time to upgrade the truck. [emoticon]

Jerry


Thanks, Jerry. Me 'n Jack Daniels are commiserating this weekend. Maybe I should start a Gofundme for a new truck. Think there are enough suck.... er, sympathetic people out ther that would pony up $40-50k for another truck?[emoticon]

Lyle

laknox

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Posted: 08/10/19 10:52pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Cummins12V98 wrote:

To be clear when backing into a B&W "IF" the handle comes to the "LATCHED" position ti will NOT come loose. Many times I have backed into mine and the handle does NOT fully close even tho the jaws LOOK to be fully engaged.

Handle MUST be closed/locked!!!


This assumes that you're smart enough to remember to take the f'n PIN out of the hold-open position. [emoticon]

Lyle

4x4ord

Alberta

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Posted: 08/10/19 10:59pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

laknox wrote:



Correct, but that pre-supposes that you actually =removed= the f'n pin locking the jaws in the open position for unhooking... As I said, STUPID!!!!

Lyle


There's the rest of the story. I wouldn't call it stupid unless it was my son in law doing it to my truck ..... then it would be STUPID!!!!


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