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 > gas line interferes with drain plug

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fyrflie

Martinez, CA. USA

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Joined: 07/31/2003

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Posted: 08/13/19 08:39am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Old-Biscuit wrote:

fyrflie wrote:

I took my plug out completely and installed a 90 degree drain valve with a hose that is routed under the RV to drain.


Hope that hose is temp/pressure rated for above 210*F/150 psi

Temp/press that COULD be reached/exceeded should t-stats fail to shut down heating source

Drain hole is small to begin with (1/2")
Valve cuts that size down even more so effective draining of crud is hampered.


A little bit of overthinking here.

Why would a drain hose that’s about 12” long need to be temp/ pressure rated.
Or are you thinking of the Temp. Relief Valve.

I don’t full time in my RV so the “crud” buildup would be minimal to non existent and I drain my tank after every trip.

It’s a modification that I wanted to do to my RV. If you don’t agree with it, then fine, move on to the next post but quit trying to impress everyone with what you think you might know.

Old-Biscuit

Verde Valley

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Joined: 06/20/2009

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Posted: 08/13/19 10:47am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

fyrflie wrote:

Old-Biscuit wrote:

fyrflie wrote:

I took my plug out completely and installed a 90 degree drain valve with a hose that is routed under the RV to drain.


Hope that hose is temp/pressure rated for above 210*F/150 psi

Temp/press that COULD be reached/exceeded should t-stats fail to shut down heating source

Drain hole is small to begin with (1/2")
Valve cuts that size down even more so effective draining of crud is hampered.


A little bit of overthinking here.

Why would a drain hose that’s about 12” long need to be temp/ pressure rated.
Or are you thinking of the Temp. Relief Valve.

I don’t full time in my RV so the “crud” buildup would be minimal to non existent and I drain my tank after every trip.

It’s a modification that I wanted to do to my RV. If you don’t agree with it, then fine, move on to the next post but quit trying to impress everyone with what you think you might know.


Having operated 'boilers' of every size/design for over 30 yrs the one thing I do know is about the SAFE operation of them.
Water heaters are just small boilers

Every component attached to boiler MUST meet the temp/press rating of boiler in order to be SAFE.

AND the smaller the hole the more restrictive is becomes when draining/flushing

Just saying....


Is it time for your medication or mine?


2007 DODGE 3500 QC SRW 5.9L CTD In-Bed 'quiet gen'
2007 HitchHiker II 32.5 UKTG 2000W Xantex Inverter
On the Road Debt Free April '07
Off the road still Debt Free Jan. '14

philh

Belleville MI

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Joined: 05/11/2015

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Posted: 08/13/19 06:11pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Old-Biscuit wrote:


Having operated 'boilers' of every size/design for over 30 yrs the one thing I do know is about the SAFE operation of them.
Water heaters are just small boilers

Every component attached to boiler MUST meet the temp/press rating of boiler in order to be SAFE.

AND the smaller the hole the more restrictive is becomes when draining/flushing

Just saying....

Pretty sure a brass cockvalve is going to be safe when compared to a plastic plug.

Convenience of the cockvalve trumps the plastic plug for part timers.

Old-Biscuit

Verde Valley

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Joined: 06/20/2009

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Posted: 08/13/19 10:54pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

philh wrote:

Old-Biscuit wrote:


Having operated 'boilers' of every size/design for over 30 yrs the one thing I do know is about the SAFE operation of them.
Water heaters are just small boilers

Every component attached to boiler MUST meet the temp/press rating of boiler in order to be SAFE.

AND the smaller the hole the more restrictive is becomes when draining/flushing

Just saying....

Pretty sure a brass cockvalve is going to be safe when compared to a plastic plug.

Convenience of the cockvalve trumps the plastic plug for part timers.


Drain plug is NOT plastic
It is NYLON and rated for 300*F PLUS/180 psi

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