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ajriding

st clair

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Joined: 12/28/2004

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Posted: 08/14/19 12:17pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

A few photos removing the fridge. It was too big to fit through the door so the window had to come out.
Removing the window is very similar on 99% of RVs. It is pretty easy depending on what the previous guy used to seal the window. Use a scraper to pry the window free gently. The most common, and I think best, is the butyl tape. Most will use 3/4 inch tape. Clean RV and window frame before re-install. It is a sticky almost clay-like roll of thick goo that you roll out onto the window frame and stick the window back in. When you screw the window in the goo oozes out a little and you trim that.

[image]
Disconnect propane, unplug electric, unscrew fridge from cabinet and pull it out.

[image]
The window is out. I wish I could have just opened the window, but had to completely remove window.
I protected the RV with some thick towels

[image]
The long ladder gave me a nice ramp to slide the fridge out.

[image]
I just slid it down the ramp.

I will install a roof AC soon, and will use the ladder as a ramp to just slide the AC unit onto the roof. I have a hill the ladder is sitting on that helps even the elevations, but you could sit it on a table, or extend the ladder longer for a less-sloped ramp.

I have a DC powered compressor fridge that I will be using, and it is not particular about level, and will use free solar power…

I can share that install later. I plan to put it on the dinette seat next to the fridge area, which will become a closet, and have it on drawer sliders so the couch can still become a bed if needed. I do not need a full couch that often

* This post was edited 08/14/19 04:44pm by ajriding *

BarneyS

S.E. Lower Michigan

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Joined: 10/16/2000

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Posted: 08/14/19 01:05pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Your pictures are not showing because you need to be a member of that forum to even view those pictures. Here is an easier way.

If you will follow these directions exactly, it is very easy to post pictures on our forums. One of our moderators, 1492, developed this photo posting app to post your pictures. It works for other internet sites also. There is no need to have a separate hosting site for your pictures in order to use it.

It is very simple to use.
1. Upload your picture from your computer to the app.
2. Copy the resulting URL.
3. Paste that URL into your post without ANY changes. No additions or deletions.

Your picture will then appear in your post and be properly sized for use on our forums.[emoticon]
Barney


2004 Sunnybrook Titan 30FKS TT
Hensley "Arrow" 1400# hitch (Sold)
2019 Ram Limited 1500, 5.7L Hemi, 4x4, SB
Not towing now.
Former tow vehicles were 2016 Ram 2500 CTD, 2002 Ford F250, 7.3 PSD


fyrflie

Martinez, CA. USA

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Joined: 07/31/2003

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Posted: 08/15/19 08:52am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I can see the pictures just fine.

Good luck on your project.

ajriding

st clair

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Joined: 12/28/2004

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Posted: 08/15/19 07:28pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

With the frige gone I put in drawers.There is not a perfect square cavity to attach the drawer slides to, they need perfection, so I built a frame to hold the drawers and inserted that.

[image]
The opening…

[image]
The frame, out of build order but makes more sense. I had to build it in halves so it could fit through the fridge opening. I just screwed a panel of thin wood across the seam to hold them together once inside the fridge opening.
Later, the top will get a board that will not only hold the 2x4s together (not make the drawer slides do that) but also fit tight along the walls so there is no movement.

[image]
The two halves together. I had to cut out the edges for propane and electrical runs.

[image]
The lower drawer is getting its drawer slides installed.
Interesting tidbit; the big drawer was from my first RV build. I am way better at building drawers now than back then, this one got some fixes and paint. Current RV is #5.

[image]
Top drawer. The tops of the 2x4s will get cut to just above the drawer. On top will go a shelf.
All the stained wood was recovered/recycled from old projects.

[image]
Dry fit. The drawer fronts will get put on last.
2x4s cut. I will have to custom measure the shelf board so it fits the irregular space. It will have to be done in halves also.

[image]
Probably an extra 1 cubic foot of storage space in this opening than if it just had straight sides.

I do not plan to put any screws or bolts through the original fiberglass interior, so will wedge some wood in and glue it with cheap caulk. The caulk, and the top shelf should hold tight and also be easy to remove if ever needed.

Hope you enjoyed…

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