Grrrrr. Brake controller.

[Veebyes]

I have been living with underperforming trailer brakes for quite some time. Driving habits have been extra cautious to compensate for them. The brakes are the self adjusting type. Had them professionally service last fall which included shoe checks & wiring checks at each wheel. Redid a couple a few weeks ago & made sure there was no chafe of wires.

They do work, but only slightly, at the most responsive settings. Could the problem be with a faulty controller itself? It seems to display random numbers when brakes are applied.

[Veebyes]

Don't know how one goes about adjusting self adjusting brakes. Don't have a clamp on amp meter. Might need to add one of those to my arsenal of 'weapons'. Chafe inside an axle seems unlikely, though I did do some wire jiggling at each axle.

[MFL]

" It seems to display random numbers when brakes are applied."

It could be caused by chafed wires inside the axle tube. In this case, your braking could go from almost nothing, to over aggressive at times.

I also would recommend a manual adjust of the trailers brakes, just to be sure of proper adjustment.

Jerry

[eHoefler]

I would manually adjust your brakes and not rely on the unreliable self adjusters.

[time2roll]

Good time to post the actual controller make and model.

I would start with applying the brakes manually and use your clamp-on DC ammeter and check for 3 amps at each wheel.

[Lynnmor]

Veebyes wrote:
Could the problem be with a faulty controller itself? It seems to display random numbers when brakes are applied.

If the numbers are way different than expected, you probably have a bad connection somewhere.

New brakes take a long time to break in and perform well.

[BFL13]

Not clear that you have done the usual brake controller "setting-up" drill, to establish just when the trailer stops first, and does not skid. (Although you imply that)

You need some clear road and time to fiddle with the settings, doing it several times as a "trial and error" job.

After, if that does no good, then you can get out the DMM and check for volts and amps and all that rigamarole. (You might be there now, but not clear)