Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Tech Issues: Atwood Water Heater Question
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jbrack

california

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Posted: 08/17/19 10:56am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I was recently at an RV park that had power but no park water. I was operation off my fresh water holding tank which according to the gauge had over 1/3 of a tank. The gauge was apparently inaccurate and I ran the system dry while washing dishes. I inadvertently did not shut off the electric heater switch for an extended period of time. Now my water does not heat and I believe I burned out the heating element due to lack of water in the tank. I thought I would simply switch over to propane to heat water but it will not fire up. It doesn't even click and attempt to light. My question: Are the two heating methods not separate from each other? Would burning out my electric heating element affect the ability of the propane heater to operate?

MFL

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Posted: 08/17/19 12:48pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Something is missing here, did you drain the water tank? I don't think running the fresh water tank empty, would drain the water heater. The pump would just suck air, not pump out the water heater.

IIRC, the Atwood heaters share a reset electric/gas.

Jerry





Old-Biscuit

Verde Valley

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Posted: 08/17/19 01:23pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Since 2004 Atwood combo WHs use common DC to control both electric & propane heating functions
Running out of water in fresh water tank would NOT empty the WH Tank....

Common DC from a FUSED source goes to Both On/OFF switches then to the common circuit board
Did the RED Fault Light come on?

*Check the DC Dist Panel Fuse that supplies WH with DC...
*Check the 2A DC fuse ON the WH Circuit Board
*Check the 'thermal fuse' (in the clear tubing) that is connected to T-stat via Brwon Wire (Remove from circuit abd plug brown wire directly onto T-stat to test if WH will come on (One shot thermal fuse)

Those items are common and would prevent either heat source from functioning


Use a Voltmeter to follow the DC...........
[image]



No 'resets' on WH except for Fault Light/Lock out (turn On/Off switch OFF---wait 30 sec---turn ON)


Is it time for your medication or mine?


2007 DODGE 3500 QC SRW 5.9L CTD In-Bed 'quiet gen'
2007 HitchHiker II 32.5 UKTG 2000W Xantex Inverter
On the Road Debt Free April '07
Off the road still Debt Free Jan. '14

jbrack

california

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Posted: 08/17/19 06:21pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Old-Biscuit wrote:

Since 2004 Atwood combo WHs use common DC to control both electric & propane heating functions
Running out of water in fresh water tank would NOT empty the WH Tank....

Common DC from a FUSED source goes to Both On/OFF switches then to the common circuit board
Did the RED Fault Light come on?

*Check the DC Dist Panel Fuse that supplies WH with DC...
*Check the 2A DC fuse ON the WH Circuit Board
*Check the 'thermal fuse' (in the clear tubing) that is connected to T-stat via Brwon Wire (Remove from circuit abd plug brown wire directly onto T-stat to test if WH will come on (One shot thermal fuse)

Those items are common and would prevent either heat source from functioning


Use a Voltmeter to follow the DC...........
[image]



No 'resets' on WH except for Fault Light/Lock out (turn On/Off switch OFF---wait 30 sec---turn ON)


You Sir...are a genius....it was the 2 amp fuse on the circuit boarx...back in service

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