Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Rewiring Trailer Brakes - How to Allow for Axle Movement?
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 > Rewiring Trailer Brakes - How to Allow for Axle Movement?

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myredracer

Langley B.C.

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Joined: 04/27/2013

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Posted: 08/25/19 11:52am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Here's what I did recently. I ran a #12 ga. brake cable along one side of the frame and tie-wrapped it to the propane pipe. I ran the new brake cable across each axle tube and secured it with tie-wraps every 6". The cable is on the trailing side of the axles and not likely to be hit by road debris.

I soldered all the splices, used shrink wrap and then electrical tape over that for more physical protection. The splices are well-secured to the U-bolts with tie-wraps. The brake wiring installed by the axle manufacturer is tiny #18 ga. (in our TT anyway) and the holes into the axle tubes are waaay too small to get a #12 ga. brake cable into. The alternative is to run new cable above the coroplast but that's a heck of a lot of work for little gain, plus the wiring will be a bit longer.

I bright the brake cable up from the backing plates and forward about 1.5' to 2' forward and tie-wrapped it to the propane pipe. This allows for a lot more vertical movement than will ever occur under normal road travel or jacking the frame up to re & re a wheel.

I have to say the improvement in braking with the new #12 wiring is absolutely amazing. The original splices by the TT manufacturer were really sh!tty - not only added to a poor connection but there was the possibility of the splices pulling apart. See the photo below for one example. The crimp connectors are designed/approved for one wire only in each end and note how only a few strands were pushed into one end. ALL of the other splices were equally bad.

[image][image][image]


Gil, Deb & Dougal a 15 year old Springer Spaniel
2014 KZ Spree 262RKS, Reese DC WDH, shocks and Endurance LRE tires
2012 GMC Sierra 2500HD crew cab, Bilstein shocks, heavy duty trailering option


Woodtroll

Appalachian Mtns, SW Virginia

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Joined: 07/28/2002

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Posted: 08/25/19 06:50pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks very much, everyone. I haven't had time to replay back to all the posts yet, but there are a lot of good ideas here. And yes, the factory wire is pitifully tiny. "Myredracer" mentioned 18 gauge, and that's probably about right. The factory splices were terrible - just crimp fittings with no weather protection - so one of the first things I did to my new trailer all those years ago was to solder and seal those connections.

And no, there's no way 12-2 cable will run through the holes on my axle. Good points about following the springs, countered by the likelihood of damage by blown tires... Hmmm.

I'll come back to this when I have a little more time, but for now a sincere THANK YOU to all who took the time to answer.

Safe travels,
Regan


2003 F250XL 4WD 7.3L Crewcab LB, 6 speed; Prodigy brake controller; Big Tex grille guard/ deer deflector. Canoe hauler and camping truck extraordinaire!
2003 Layton 242 Scout- Extra batteries, solar panels, LED lighting, and propane for boondocking.


jmaotto

Rockwall, Tx

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Joined: 03/25/2005

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Posted: 08/26/19 12:14pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I also had my brake wires short out inside the axle tubes. I repaired mine the same way. I ran new wires on the back side of the axles and used wire ties to hold them there.

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