Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: RV inside Temperature and Refrigerator temperature
Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Posting Help and Support  |  Contact  

Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Tech Issues

Open Roads Forum  >  Tech Issues

 > RV inside Temperature and Refrigerator temperature

Reply to Topic  |  Subscribe  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 3  
Prev  |  Next
CA Traveler

The Western States

Senior Member

Joined: 01/03/2004

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 08/27/19 06:19pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

As a test I started the refer at 110F with afternoon sun on the outside wall and the refer didn't go below 52F with no A/C. Started the A/Cs which cooled 5 of the 6 refer sides and the refer came down to 39F.

Unless it's very hot the cab A/C cools us and the refer for proper cooling while driving. When it is very hot 2 things happen.

1. We run the house A/Cs.

2. We are are headed to cooler areas.


2009 Holiday Rambler 42' Scepter with ISL 400 Cummins
750 Watts Solar Morningstar MPPT 60 Controller
2014 Grand Cherokee Overland

Bob


MDKMDK

Canada

Senior Member

Joined: 10/15/2008

View Profile



Posted: 08/27/19 06:54pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

kmb1966 wrote:


In propane mode I can only reach about 39 degrees with approx 80 degrees inside the coach (testing cooling unit)
In electric mode I can only reach about 38 degrees, but if the inside temp is around 90 degrees, can only get to approx 40 degrees in electric 42 in propane.
It's in storage doing this test and I can't run the generator or have a hookup so it's really warm inside the unit, but trying to determine if the frig is working right.
I probably need to get it out and plug it in a 50 amp where I can test with normal inside livable temps.

I think I'd be doing just that, get it cooled down inside to what you'd be comfortable with for actual living temps inside the coach, and see how the numbers look then. I think you'll see better fridge temps at ambients of 70F, versus 90F?


Mike.
2018 (2017 Sprinter Cab Chassis) Navion24V + 2016 Wrangler JKU (sold @ ????)
2016 Sunstar 26HE, V10, 3V, 6 Speed (sold @ 4600 miles)
2002 Roadtrek C190P (sold @ 315,000kms)

toedtoes

California

Senior Member

Joined: 05/17/2014

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member

Offline
Posted: 08/27/19 06:57pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

My clipper fridge is wonderful. Doesn't matter how hot outside or inside, the fridge works great on both 120 and propane. Always cold. Never an issue. Knock on wood. It's 44 years old.

On the other hand, my FnR fridge can't cool down if the inside temp is too high. Propane is actually worse in this case than the 120. However, if I cool down the inside temp with the AC, then the fridge cools down well in both modes (propane cooler than 120) regardless of exterior heat. As I don't camp in hot temps, but live in hot temps, I just have to use the AC when I precool the fridge before a trip. Then it's fine as I head into cooler climes.

I have added the exhaust fan, the interior fan, and reflectix to the outside wall behind the fridge. They help a bit but can't compete with 90+ temps. This fridge is 21 years old and has a side vent rather than top vent.


1975 American Clipper RV with Dodge 360 (photo in profile)
1998 American Clipper Fold n Roll Folding Trailer
Both born in Morgan Hill, CA to Irv Perch (Daddy of the Aristocrat trailers)

kmb1966

Lake Charles

Senior Member

Joined: 09/18/2005

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 08/27/19 08:32pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

DFord wrote:

Are you level both front to back and more critically side to side?

Are the fans in the back operating properly?

yes. we are on concrete level slab, jacks down, and leveled
its hot outside, and inside temp is 90.
Inside the fridge 2nd shelf is 40. Freezer at 5

kmb1966

Lake Charles

Senior Member

Joined: 09/18/2005

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 08/27/19 08:57pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

SidecarFlip wrote:

kmb1966 wrote:

MDKMDK wrote:

kmb1966 wrote:

MDKMDK wrote:

Absolutely. You didn't say what your year/make/model was of the RV or Norcold (or I didn't go digging for it?), but my DC0061 definitely works harder when the coach's interior ambient temp is higher.
I see it's a DSDP. Assume it's not a 7 cuft Norcold? [emoticon]

I should have put that info on my post. I will edit the post and update that info. It's a Norcold 1200 in a 2003 Newmar Dutch Star


No worries. I just got off my lazy butt and did a little profile digging. [emoticon]
My "absolutely" still stands. Hot inside coach, fridge works harder to maintain temps.

In propane mode I can only reach about 39 degrees with approx 80 degrees inside the coach (testing cooling unit)
In electric mode I can only reach about 38 degrees, but if the inside temp is around 90 degrees, can only get to approx 40 degrees in electric 42 in propane.
It's in storage doing this test and I can't run the generator or have a hookup so it's really warm inside the unit, but trying to determine if the frig is working right.
I probably need to get it out and plug it in a 50 amp where I can test with normal inside livable temps.


Interesting, should be the other way around with propane being the colder of the 2 because the propane flame is emitting more BTU's in heat than the Cal Rod is.

I agree. most of the time propane mode cools slightly better, not slightly worse, but in this case it is just opposite.

Old-Biscuit

Verde Valley

Senior Member

Joined: 06/20/2009

View Profile



Posted: 08/27/19 09:28pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

kmb1966 wrote:

DFord wrote:

Are you level both front to back and more critically side to side?

Are the fans in the back operating properly?

yes. we are on concrete level slab, jacks down, and leveled
its hot outside, and inside temp is 90.
Inside the fridge 2nd shelf is 40. Freezer at 5


Nothing wrong or out of specs with those numbers.


Is it time for your medication or mine?


2007 DODGE 3500 QC SRW 5.9L CTD In-Bed 'quiet gen'
2007 HitchHiker II 32.5 UKTG 2000W Xantex Inverter
On the Road Debt Free April '07
Off the road still Debt Free Jan. '14

kmb1966

Lake Charles

Senior Member

Joined: 09/18/2005

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 08/28/19 08:05am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

After several weeks of testing my Norcold 1200, I have determined that the unit is performing much better in electric mode, than propane. The propane is lit and I can see a blue flame, but it is not cooling near as well as it does on electric mode. In electric mode, it can reach 35 degrees overnight but in propane mode, only 40

ItsyRV

Desert SW

Senior Member

Joined: 10/02/2018

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member


Posted: 08/28/19 09:47am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Have you performed a propane system maintenance. On mine they tested the propane pressure, cleaned out the flue, cleaned the burner assembly, adjusted the flame, and all the other little things related to optimum performance. One thing they did tell me is most RV refrigerator's propane functions are often a bit out of whack due to no maintenance.

My refrigerator is an old Norcold 682 and it's cools great regardless of interior temp. When I had to pull the refrigerator to access the cabinet space on it's side, I realized the insulation around the refrigerator shouldn't even be considered insulation. So I added new insulation on the sides, the top and the bottom. I also had the chimney and add on fans redesigned to optimize the flow. Even if it's 100 degrees in the RV, the refrigerator will still cool to the mid 30's. Don't underestimate the loss through the sides, top and bottom of the refrigerator due to poor insulation.


1994 Itasca SunDancer 21RB - Chevy G-30 chassis.


dougrainer

Carrolton, Texas

Senior Member

Joined: 06/11/2007

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 08/28/19 09:59am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

SidecarFlip wrote:

kmb1966 wrote:

MDKMDK wrote:

kmb1966 wrote:

MDKMDK wrote:

Absolutely. You didn't say what your year/make/model was of the RV or Norcold (or I didn't go digging for it?), but my DC0061 definitely works harder when the coach's interior ambient temp is higher.
I see it's a DSDP. Assume it's not a 7 cuft Norcold? [emoticon]

I should have put that info on my post. I will edit the post and update that info. It's a Norcold 1200 in a 2003 Newmar Dutch Star


No worries. I just got off my lazy butt and did a little profile digging. [emoticon]
My "absolutely" still stands. Hot inside coach, fridge works harder to maintain temps.

In propane mode I can only reach about 39 degrees with approx 80 degrees inside the coach (testing cooling unit)
In electric mode I can only reach about 38 degrees, but if the inside temp is around 90 degrees, can only get to approx 40 degrees in electric 42 in propane.
It's in storage doing this test and I can't run the generator or have a hookup so it's really warm inside the unit, but trying to determine if the frig is working right.
I probably need to get it out and plug it in a 50 amp where I can test with normal inside livable temps.


Interesting, should be the other way around with propane being the colder of the 2 because the propane flame is emitting more BTU's in heat than the Cal Rod is.


Another wives tale. BTU's are BTU's. They design the 120 and LP to operate the same and have the equivalent BTU's. That said, there ARE factors that would lead someone to believe LP is Better.
1. the input 120 LINE voltage is subpar(below 115 volts). That would cause the 120 element to NOT operate at the correct BTU's, but that is a supply fault and not a refer fault.
2. LOW LP pressure would cause cooling problem versus 120.
Bottom line is, BOTH LP and 120 will operate the refer the same as long as the Line voltage is at spec and the LP pressure is at spec. I ALWAYS test refers on 120 volts for any operational problems. The only time I use LP is when there is a LP operation complaint.
IF you suspect 120 line voltage problems, then put the refer on LP, as it will cool better. Doug

dougrainer

Carrolton, Texas

Senior Member

Joined: 06/11/2007

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 08/28/19 10:01am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

kmb1966 wrote:

DFord wrote:

Are you level both front to back and more critically side to side?

Are the fans in the back operating properly?

yes. we are on concrete level slab, jacks down, and leveled
its hot outside, and inside temp is 90.
Inside the fridge 2nd shelf is 40. Freezer at 5


Make sure you test the temp with a glass of water and NOT the air temp in the refer or the temp of the shelves. You can get an actual temp of the evap fins if you go into the on screen diagnostics. The evap fins will be 10 degrees cooler than the actual temp of the water in the refer. Also use a digital thermometer. Do not use an IR thermometer. Doug

Reply to Topic  |  Subscribe  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 3  
Prev  |  Next

Open Roads Forum  >  Tech Issues

 > RV inside Temperature and Refrigerator temperature
Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Tech Issues


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:




© 2020 CWI, Inc. © 2020 Good Sam Enterprises, LLC. All Rights Reserved.