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ArchHoagland

Clovis, CA, USA

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Posted: 08/30/19 10:11pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Did the main engine fan clutch engage which produces a very loud roar?


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SidecarFlip

SE Michigan

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Posted: 08/31/19 07:56am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I bet the rad is loaded with filth. Clean it out with a pressure washer with a low pressure nozzle.


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Chum lee

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Posted: 08/31/19 01:15pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Have you confirmed the over heat with an infra red gun? Reading the coolant temperature at the expansion tank will confirm the over temp. Is your check engine light coming on putting you in over heat limp mode?

A shot in the dark. I don't know if it is an issue with the 8.1 Workhorse, but, since you just changed the water pump/coolant, your system may need to be "burped" getting all the trapped air out of the system. It's possible to see a false over temp if there is air trapped in the system. See the shop manual for the best method to do this. Often it's a matter of loosening the coolant temp sensor or a strategically placed vent, (allowing the air to vent) or, any fitting that is at the highest point of the system on the engine when the system is hot. Be careful (burn warning) when doing this.

Did you use a "discount" water pump rather than an OEM part?

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rgatijnet1

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Posted: 08/31/19 01:39pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I had a 2003 RV with the Workhorse W chassis and 8.1L engine. The WH water pump is unique and difficult to find. There are thousands of 8.1L engines used in all kinds of operations and you can go to any auto parts stores and find a water pump to fit and 8.1L engine. The problem is that 99% of the time the replacement water pump will not work. The original water pump is very heavy and has a huge oversize bearing to handle the heavy weight of the Workhorse fan clutch. The water pump number for the 8.1L engine is GM/AC Delco part number 89017773. Expect to pay somewhere around $250 for this part, if you can find one. If the shop that did your work just pulled one off of the shelf at a parts store, I suspect that is your problem. If they also used your old heavy fan clutch, then there is a possibility that the bearing will fail on the new water pump in a short time.
Hopefully you still have the old water pump and you can take it to one of the shops that rebuilds water pumps. Naturally you want to make sure that your radiator is clean and flushed out from the backside so as not to drive debris deeper in to the fins. You can also change your 190 degree thermostat to a 180 degree unit that may work better.

mccsix

Pensacola Florida

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Posted: 08/31/19 03:13pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Stick the thermo in a pan of water heat on the stove with a temp gauge to verify opening. Or just chuck it and buy a new one. I've had a new one not open up and it will drive you crazy trying to figure it out. If you do get a new one I'd test it to make sure it's OK.

drifterpilot

Gloucester, Virginia

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Posted: 08/31/19 06:33pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I ran again today for 350 miles along Rte 87 and Rte 40 west toward Little Rock. I am stopped for the night in Nashville. I drove all day with the front facing engine compt door wide open for max air flow into the engine compt. With the early morning outside temps in the 55 - 67 deg range, the engine did not rise in temp. However, after that, I had to run the dash heat at max with blower on full to pull heat from the engine to maintain engine temp close to normal. At times, the engine temp would rise and climb and I would have to slow my speed to lower engine rpm's to help control the engine temp. After 2:00 pm today, I ran into outside temps that were 93 deg on rte 40. Definitely uncomfortable driving.
Appreciate all the good info / comments.
I will definitely look into the AC/Delco water pump replacement. That sounds like a very serious consideration. I hope I can find one in the Little Rock area because leaving there on the 8th, I have to drive to Charleston SC.
Thanks again.


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ArchHoagland

Clovis, CA, USA

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Posted: 08/31/19 11:40pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Does the main fan clutch ever engage with a loud roar?

It will normally engage at about 201 degrees and roar until the temperature drops back down.

If you temperature dial is going up to the red area that's around 235 degrees. At least that's what mine was was I use a scanguage that tells the actual temperature.

crawford

Dandridge Tenn.

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Posted: 09/01/19 09:51am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

ArchHoagland wrote:

Did the main engine fan clutch engage which produces a very loud roar?

When on high way fan isn't needed so clutch fan isn't the problem. Poor water flow between water pump or radiator or head gasket problem.


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ArchHoagland

Clovis, CA, USA

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Posted: 09/01/19 09:59am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

crawford wrote:

ArchHoagland wrote:

Did the main engine fan clutch engage which produces a very loud roar?

When on high way fan isn't needed so clutch fan isn't the problem. Poor water flow between water pump or radiator or head gasket problem.



Hmmmm... Come on out west and climb a few mountains at 95 degrees and I'll guarantee you need the engine fan clutch to engage on an 8.1 engine.

Do you have an 8.1 engine?

crawford

Dandridge Tenn.

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Posted: 09/01/19 10:40am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

ArchHoagland wrote:

crawford wrote:

ArchHoagland wrote:

Did the main engine fan clutch engage which produces a very loud roar?

When on high way fan isn't needed so clutch fan isn't the problem. Poor water flow between water pump or radiator or head gasket problem.



Hmmmm... Come on out west and climb a few mountains at 95 degrees and I'll guarantee you need the engine fan clutch to engage on an 8.1 engine.

Do you have an 8.1 engine?
so what you say once water temp goes down to it's coolest point you think the fan is going to cool the the engine some more Your probably one's who also think taking out thermostats make them run cooler to....

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