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drifterpilot

Gloucester, Virginia

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Posted: 09/03/19 06:37pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Arch..
I did reply earlier, that in the past, I have heard the engine "roar" (although I didn't know what it was at the time), but I don't believe I have heard it this trip.
I am parked in Little Rock and I have an appointment early tomorrow morning to have the engine looked at. I talked at length this evening with my mechanic back home and he feels it could be the fan clutch. My intent is to have the fan clutch replaced along with the thermostat.
I will replace both with OEM only. I am working within a short timeframe and must be heading east by Sunday morning.
Does anyone have OEM part numbers for the fan clutch and thermostat?
Thanks


2003 Winnebago Adventurer 33V
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ArchHoagland

Clovis, CA, USA

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Posted: 09/03/19 07:11pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Ok great, didn't see that.

I've replaced my thermostat twice but wasn't having any problems, just did it as a preventive measure when I had the hoses, belts and coolant changed.

Keep us in the loop, hope you find the problem soon.


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4x4van

California

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Posted: 09/05/19 12:12pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

ArchHoagland wrote:


Keep us in the loop, hope you find the problem soon.
Agreed, keep us in the loop. I pull a 4,000lb trailer to Glamis and back, over Whitewater Grade and have not any any overheating issues, so I am definitely interested in hearing what is causing yours.

Here's what I have listed for the OEM parts; Workhorse part numbers:

Cooling Fan: W0007657 (includes Fan Clutch)
Fan Clutch (only): W0000193
Thermostat: W8800783


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drifterpilot

Gloucester, Virginia

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Posted: 09/05/19 09:17pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

4x4van
Thank you for the Workhorse part nos.
Fan clutch and thermostat being installed on Friday.
Leaving for the East Coast on Sunday Morning.
I will post Mon or Tues on how things go.
Thanks for all suggestive comments.

rgatijnet1

Florida

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Posted: 09/06/19 05:13am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Keep this website in your files. It is the go to place for WH part numbers and alternatives. You can also send them an email and ask questions. You can find part numbers for all kinds of Workhorse parts for your engine, cooling system, chassis, etc. OEMYS performance

drifterpilot

Gloucester, Virginia

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Posted: 09/11/19 03:17pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Update!
I have arrived in Charleston SC. I traveled 2-1/2 days from Little Rock AR. While in Little Rock, I attempted to have the fan clutch replaced. The repair facility “United Engines” twice ordered a fan clutch and both times the wrong part came in. I had even provided them with a Workhorse Part Number, but they failed to use it and ordered wrong using their own info. I was not a happy camper and just ran out of time. They did, however, replace the thermostat.
I ran at highway speeds (60 – 65) on Rte 40 and Rte 26. My experience was the exact same that I had going out to Little Rock. The engine temp climbed and came down. Twice, the temp climbed almost to the shaded red area and came back down to “normal” range on the gauge. At no time did I hear the “Roar” of the fan clutch cutting in. However, I do have a bit of a hearing loss. Both mornings before I started the engine, I checked the coolant reservoir; there was no coolant in the reservoir. I had to add DexCool to the “Cold” level. The 2nd morning, right after I started the engine, I heard a “rattle” that sounded like a water pump rattle just before it quits. I immediately got on the road and made it to Charleston without any other incidents other than the temp rising and falling.
I immediately ordered a water pump and a fan clutch from a Workhorse distributor in Alabama. I will have those items in hand in another day or so. I don’t have the time to stay here to get the replacement parts installed. I’m leaving here Sunday morning and driving the 400 miles home to Virginia. If I have a water pump failure going home, I will at least have a replacement pump on board. With the engine running and at temp, I do not see any coolant leaking on the ground. The temp does not rise from “normal” when running at idle.
Comments?

Jennifer Koper

494 Norman Street

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Posted: 09/12/19 10:43am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I just replaced the rear main sealand few days ago now my check engine light is flaking and I am hearing a strange tapping sound any ideas?

PaulJ2

Northwest Oregon

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Posted: 09/12/19 03:06pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I believe the problem here is the water pump. Wrong one is installed. There are at least two--one designed with fins designed to run clockwise the other to run counterclockwise. if the wrong one is there the water will still circulate but not efficiently. Then---if the heated water in the block can't get into radiator quickly enough,the fan clutch doesn't feel the needed heat/temperature and does not engage.
If i remember correctly this all started with a water pump replacement.
My thoughts.

rgatijnet1

Florida

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Posted: 09/12/19 03:26pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Keep in mind that many of us with the same engine have had to drive for a number of miles BEFORE the fan clutch settled in. For me it was almost 100 miles. Some of the others were less and a few were more. On my fan clutch there was a note "in the box" about how it had to be stored on the shelf. I guess they expected the warehouse to open the box before they put it on the shelf. In any case, after the necessary break in period my fan clutch would start to roar at 207 degrees, as verified by my OBDII monitor of the actual coolant temperature. Right now if your temperature is moving up and down on level roads, I would say that your thermostat is working but you might not be getting sufficient water flow or sufficient air through the radiator. Make sure that the radiator is properly cleaned and flushed from the rear to force debris out the front. My normal cruise temp on a level road, while loaded and towing was a steady 196 degrees by my OBDII gauge.

4x4van

California

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Posted: 09/12/19 03:43pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

PaulJ2 wrote:

I believe the problem here is the water pump. Wrong one is installed. There are at least two--one designed with fins designed to run clockwise the other to run counterclockwise. if the wrong one is there the water will still circulate but not efficiently. Then---if the heated water in the block can't get into radiator quickly enough,the fan clutch doesn't feel the needed heat/temperature and does not engage.
If i remember correctly this all started with a water pump replacement.
My thoughts.
This is not the first time I have heard of that "clockwise vs counter-clockwise" issue on this engine. Question is, are there 2 different part numbers? How do you tell which is which? How do you tell which you need (clockwise looking forward? or?).

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