Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Norcold 1200 colder on electric than propane UPDATE
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 > Norcold 1200 colder on electric than propane UPDATE

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kmb1966

Lake Charles

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Posted: 08/30/19 09:09pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Been testing the Norcold 1200 for several weeks. Several thermometers all reading the same.
Set on 7, Electric mode each morning 35/36 degrees.
switch to propane
Set on 7, propane mode each morning 43/44 degrees.
Moving to 8,9 makes no improvement.
Switch back to electric, on 7, consistently on 35/36 degrees.

obviously something wrong with propane mode.
Replace burner?

* This post was edited 09/08/19 06:34pm by kmb1966 *

pianotuna

Regina, SK, Canada

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Posted: 08/30/19 09:38pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

How old is it?

Try blowing out the burner with compressed air.

What color is the flame?


Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp hours of AGM in two battery banks 12 volt batteries, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

Old-Biscuit

Verde Valley

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Posted: 08/30/19 10:54pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Dirty orifice'
Dirty burner
Dirty flue/flue baffle
Flue cap not in place
Low LP System Pressure


Is it time for your medication or mine?


2007 DODGE 3500 QC SRW 5.9L CTD In-Bed 'quiet gen'
2007 HitchHiker II 32.5 UKTG 2000W Xantex Inverter
On the Road Debt Free April '07
Off the road still Debt Free Jan. '14

kmb1966

Lake Charles

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Posted: 08/31/19 05:48am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

pianotuna wrote:

How old is it?

Try blowing out the burner with compressed air.

What color is the flame?


The cooling unit is new (Amish cooling unit)
But the burner age is unknown to me. Might be the original burner. I can see a blue flame.

kmb1966

Lake Charles

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Posted: 08/31/19 05:49am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Old-Biscuit wrote:

Dirty orifice'
Dirty burner
Dirty flue/flue baffle
Flue cap not in place
Low LP System Pressure

Thank you for these suggestions.
Since it is a new cooling unit, I am assuming that the flue/baffle and flue cap are all good. I know the flu cap is there (appears to be welded on the Amish unit).
I ordered a new burner and will install. I am not sure how to test the LP pressure

dougrainer

Carrolton, Texas

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Posted: 08/31/19 08:56am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

kmb1966 wrote:

Old-Biscuit wrote:

Dirty orifice'
Dirty burner
Dirty flue/flue baffle
Flue cap not in place
Low LP System Pressure

Thank you for these suggestions.
Since it is a new cooling unit, I am assuming that the flue/baffle and flue cap are all good. I know the flu cap is there (appears to be welded on the Amish unit).
I ordered a new burner and will install. I am not sure how to test the LP pressure


You are qualified to work at Camping World[emoticon] Your problem is LP PRESSURE! Replacing parts is NOT the fix. It is at CW. Doug

kmb1966

Lake Charles

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Posted: 08/31/19 01:02pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

dougrainer wrote:

kmb1966 wrote:

Old-Biscuit wrote:

Dirty orifice'
Dirty burner
Dirty flue/flue baffle
Flue cap not in place
Low LP System Pressure

Thank you for these suggestions.
Since it is a new cooling unit, I am assuming that the flue/baffle and flue cap are all good. I know the flu cap is there (appears to be welded on the Amish unit).
I ordered a new burner and will install. I am not sure how to test the LP pressure


You are qualified to work at Camping World[emoticon] Your problem is LP PRESSURE! Replacing parts is NOT the fix. It is at CW. Doug

How do I test LP Gas pressure?
Since my burner is 16 years old, maybe it wasn't a total waste of $ to buy another burner. [emoticon]

dougrainer

Carrolton, Texas

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Posted: 08/31/19 01:46pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

kmb1966 wrote:

dougrainer wrote:

kmb1966 wrote:

Old-Biscuit wrote:

Dirty orifice'
Dirty burner
Dirty flue/flue baffle
Flue cap not in place
Low LP System Pressure

Thank you for these suggestions.
Since it is a new cooling unit, I am assuming that the flue/baffle and flue cap are all good. I know the flu cap is there (appears to be welded on the Amish unit).
I ordered a new burner and will install. I am not sure how to test the LP pressure


You are qualified to work at Camping World[emoticon] Your problem is LP PRESSURE! Replacing parts is NOT the fix. It is at CW. Doug

How do I test LP Gas pressure?
Since my burner is 16 years old, maybe it wasn't a total waste of $ to buy another burner. [emoticon]


You have to use a LP Manometer. It should be at 11.5 inches Water Column. The burner is Steel. I have not had to replace a burner in years. Just a good cleaning and verify the orifice is clean and open. Doug

kmb1966

Lake Charles

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Posted: 09/08/19 06:34pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

dougrainer wrote:

kmb1966 wrote:

Old-Biscuit wrote:

Dirty orifice'
Dirty burner
Dirty flue/flue baffle
Flue cap not in place
Low LP System Pressure

Thank you for these suggestions.
Since it is a new cooling unit, I am assuming that the flue/baffle and flue cap are all good. I know the flu cap is there (appears to be welded on the Amish unit).
I ordered a new burner and will install. I am not sure how to test the LP pressure


You are qualified to work at Camping World[emoticon] Your problem is LP PRESSURE! Replacing parts is NOT the fix. It is at CW. Doug

Update....
Doug is going to be right (again) on this. I changed the orifice and burner. Flame looks textbook correct. But still does not cool as well in propane mode as it does electric. 35 in electric, 42 in propane. (7 degree difference)
Having the LP pressure tested next.

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